The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Hello fellow boaters :)

Recently stumbled on to this website and what a gem! Learned a lot from all the past posts. Wanted to say hi and see if anyone is left on here (?)

I'm Trisha I have a 2000 Sundancer 260 for about 5 years now. Absolutely LOVE my boat! So far she's been pretty great to me with only some minor repairs/maint (bellows, impeller, canvas and some other tinkering).

Needing a good mechanic now because after reading the last 45 pages I'm having nightmares about rusty manifolds and water flooding my engine :( I guess it's time to have some serious maintenance done! So, considering I've had the boat for about 5ish years now, and I've not done too much to it, I'm trying to put together a list of what I should have done. After some reading on here I narrowed it down to needing: inline fuel filter, fuel/water filter, plugs, wires, another impeller (every 2 years?), manifold/ risers, cap, rotor, and sea foam in my fuel. Does that sound about right?

She's in a slip at my local marina and at the end of the season she gets stored in my driveway on a trailer. Any advice would be much appreciated as I know less than nothing about the mechanical stuff. And if anyone is on Long Island and knows a good mechanic please pass along!

Thanks :)
Trisha
 
Hello fellow boaters :)

Recently stumbled on to this website and what a gem! Learned a lot from all the past posts. Wanted to say hi and see if anyone is left on here (?)

I'm Trisha I have a 2000 Sundancer 260 for about 5 years now. Absolutely LOVE my boat! So far she's been pretty great to me with only some minor repairs/maint (bellows, impeller, canvas and some other tinkering).

Needing a good mechanic now because after reading the last 45 pages I'm having nightmares about rusty manifolds and water flooding my engine :( I guess it's time to have some serious maintenance done! So, considering I've had the boat for about 5ish years now, and I've not done too much to it, I'm trying to put together a list of what I should have done. After some reading on here I narrowed it down to needing: inline fuel filter, fuel/water filter, plugs, wires, another impeller (every 2 years?), manifold/ risers, cap, rotor, and sea foam in my fuel. Does that sound about right?

She's in a slip at my local marina and at the end of the season she gets stored in my driveway on a trailer. Any advice would be much appreciated as I know less than nothing about the mechanical stuff. And if anyone is on Long Island and knows a good mechanic please pass along!

Thanks :)
Trisha

Hi Trisha,

Welcome - we are here on LI too! I also loved my 2003 260DA while I had her - so much eventually moved up to a 340SDA. Where on LI are you located - boat during the season and off - as it will certainly get you different recommendations? There is also a great amount of knowledge here on the forums if you are inclined to be a little more DIY.

The manifolds can be a scary thing because if you do not have a proper history on the boat or know when they were last changed you may not know their condition. Even knowing when they were replaced they are probably on good for 4-5 years in salt water environment with a raw water cooled engine. The only external test would be to gauge the temperature of the elbows for water restriction. After running the engine to operating temp you should be able to comfortably touch the elbow - they will be warm to the touch but not burning hot. This will only tell you that it is cooling and water is not restricted by the rust. Most problematic on the 2000 engines would be that they are not dry joint and the riser has small thin channels that rust through more easily - unfortunately without splitting the exhaust apart there is no way of inspecting.

Next are corrosion issues on the Bravo III sterndrive. It is a must to keep them well protected by giving them a heavy coat of Trilux 3 paint and make sure the anodes are in good shape and Aluminum. These will wear out and should more than likely be replaced each season as you keep the boat in a salty wet slip. If these are not replaced corrosion will kick in and harm important and expensive parts of the outdrive. It is also important to inspect the bonding system to make sure it intact. One last thing on the B3's - the earlier models did not come with a prop anode - this would be a highly recommended addition and it a very simple task.

As far a canvas - we can certainly help you out as we are distributors for factory replacement canvas from Great Lakes Boat Top who was made the original canvas for the factory. We also run a discount program for GLBT for CSR members a have serviced customers across the country as well on on LI. ;)

Personally, there are very few things we did not do on our 260DA (full canvas, full upholstery (cabin and cockpit), installed windlass, handled most maintenance including manifolds, risers, elbows etc) so feel free to ask me questions.

If you need information on the canvas your can get my info from our website and call or even better yet fill out our request form and I will contact you.

-Kevin
 
Hi Kevin! :) I'm so glad to see you still peek on this thread your posts were some of the posts I learned the most from! And a fellow Long Islander :D I'm out in Mattituck on the North Fork. Boating in Peconic Bay this season, last season I was on the LI Sound. For the last 5 years I have been trying to learn everything I possibly can since I jumped into this knowing nothing, just the desire to be a boater and take the kiddos fishing. I joined the Power Squadron also and learned alot there as well but still so much to learn about the mechanics...

The first 2 seasons I didn't know about Trilux but learned real quick after having a hell of a time trying to scrape all the barnacles off :eek: now I do it every year before she goes in, as well as the zincs. That part I have kept up so hopefully I have no corrosion issues. I do think I have that prop anode that you speak off, I have attached a pic maybe you can look and tell me? If not I will look into one for next season. I will also research and inspect the bonding system (never looked before thank you).

What I worry most about now is the risers and manifolds. I remember the person I brought it from telling me he just changed them but I didn't know at the time it was something I had to stay on top of. Now I know. So, at best they were changed about 6 years ago... I'm thinking I should definitely have them replaced before next season. Fingers crossed I get the rest of this season without any problems from them! I will do the touch test you recommend. After reading on another thread I see I can aim a temp gun at it also and see what that says. I will try both and see what happens.

Canvas. I have a love hate relationship with my canvas lol. So much work to take it all down and then back up again! I think I am reading people leave up the front glass while underway and just remove the aft section? I have been taking everything off every time I go out and it's a PIA! Would be much easier if I just had to remove the aft section. I put new canvas on 5 years ago and I REALLY regret not doing the full camper back. I think I will definitely be getting in touch to do that for next season. Would be nice to have that camper back and get more use out of her at the dock.

The project I am trying to tackle now is changing out the screens, and that it how I stumbled onto this website. So glad I did! Now I have a good idea about how to do it from all the great advice on here.

And your boat is BEAUTIFUL!!! I can only imagine how awesome a 34' Sundancer is!

Thanks for all your advice I really appreciate it!

Trisha :)
 

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Hi Kevin! :) I'm so glad to see you still peek on this thread your posts were some of the posts I learned the most from! And a fellow Long Islander :D I'm out in Mattituck on the North Fork. Boating in Peconic Bay this season, last season I was on the LI Sound.

I am not really in touch with any mechanics out that far east however I do know we have other members on CSR that are much closer to you and can probably offer a recommendation. I would suggest starting a new post asking for a recommendation.

What I worry most about now is the risers and manifolds. I remember the person I brought it from telling me he just changed them but I didn't know at the time it was something I had to stay on top of. Now I know. So, at best they were changed about 6 years ago... I'm thinking I should definitely have them replaced before next season.

At six years you should at least be inspecting every year. If they are not running hot then you may make it the remainder of the season - but that is a guess based on water flow only. The riser passage is known to fail with the thin water channels and dump water into the manifold. It's not a hard job for a mobile mechanic to do and would cost minimal time and a few gaskets if still good. More if they need to be replaced ;)

Canvas. I have a love hate relationship with my canvas lol. So much work to take it all down and then back up again! I think I am reading people leave up the front glass while underway and just remove the aft section? I have been taking everything off every time I go out and it's a PIA! Would be much easier if I just had to remove the aft section. I put new canvas on 5 years ago and I REALLY regret not doing the full camper back. I think I will definitely be getting in touch to do that for next season. Would be nice to have that camper back and get more use out of her at the dock.

I had the Bimini with Camper back (no arch) for the most part I left all my canvas and eisenglass up all the time when leaving the boat. When we were using the boat on really hot days I would take down my front visor to allow air flow. The camper sides and aft curtain were always removed.

Here is a simple tip to store. Place old sheets between the visor panels and roll them around a foam pool noodle from the dollar store that you can cut to size. It make rolling them easier and the do not collapse or fold with bend marks.

If this is a Great Lakes Boat Top produce then adding the camper is pretty simple and is a wonderful addition for the 260DA as it gives much needed room on deck during inclement weather.

The project I am trying to tackle now is changing out the screens, and that it how I stumbled onto this website. So glad I did! Now I have a good idea about how to do it from all the great advice on here.

And your boat is BEAUTIFUL!!! I can only imagine how awesome a 34' Sundancer is!

Thanks for all your advice I really appreciate it!

Trisha :)

Sounds like you have the screens handled but unfortunately these were not the snap in ones and you need to pull the frame and gasket.

Thanks for the complement on the 340SDA - we love it and was a great move up from the 260DA. Someday we may jump again but who knows what is in the cards.

I am happy to offer advice when able, so thank you for the complement!

-Kevin
 
Trisha

Enjoy the boat, This thread and Kevin are a great place for learning and replacing most parts of the boat. I have done it piece by piece lol

Kevin recently tried to help me find an intake manifold, which I thought I needed when my engine hydro locked. Turns out (after finding one) that I needed the exhaust manifolds/ risers/ elbows replaced. Looking back at my records they were done 7 years ago. I would highly recommend replacing them if you are in salt water. It's a lot less expensive than replacing the engine. The cost is about $3000 for parts and labor for both sides.

I am in salt water and replace the zincs twice a season, although I keep the boat in the water from April to December.

Good Luck and enjoy the ride
 
Does anyone know what brand of trim tabs Searay used on the 04' 260DAs?.....boat is away at the dock and can't check until I come back.

I'm looking into adding an auto trim controller....the "Mente Marine" is compatible with hydraulic systems like the one in the '04 and mention some brands (Bennett, Instatrim, Trimmaster, TFX Teleflex, TX Controls)....want to double check before buying.....thanks

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Well, if anyone is interested I got help from Mente, confirmed trim tabs in pic are Bennet. Just installed their ATC, very easy to install and waiting for good weather to test it out.
 
Yes, those are Bennett... guess I'm a little late to the game, though. :) Regardless, glad you got it figured out.
 
let us know how the auto trims work out for you - i'm constantly trimming out my 260 - little annoying but due to that deep V expected
 
Personally, there are very few things we did not do on our 260DA (full canvas, full upholstery (cabin and cockpit), installed windlass, handled most maintenance including manifolds, risers, elbows etc) so feel free to ask me questions.

If you need information on the canvas your can get my info from our website and call or even better yet fill out our request form and I will contact you.

-Kevin

Kevin i want to do a Windlass on my '03 260, do you have any insight?
 
One other question, recalling back to your 260 do you remember where you were at ideal cruising speed/RPM for fuel economy

To be honest with the single engine, the narrow beam and lack of fuel flow data I was never that concerned about the fuel economy as much a where it felt best cruising based on the winds and the currents. I paid more attention to trim tabs to keep the bow level and giving it enough power to stay on plane.

With my 5.0MPI I usually cruised around 26 mph loaded with gear, two adults and two kids. (IIRC it was probably in the high 3K RPM range). Depending on your engine setup this will vary.

-Kevin
 
One other question, recalling back to your 260 do you remember where you were at ideal cruising speed/RPM for fuel economy
Don't know what engine you have, but we have (had) the same model 260DA. Mid-3,000 range will give you good economy, though. Buy the time you start hitting the upper 3,000 range and approach 4,000, the economy starts to drop off.
 
To be honest with the single engine, the narrow beam and lack of fuel flow data I was never that concerned about the fuel economy as much a where it felt best cruising based on the winds and the currents. I paid more attention to trim tabs to keep the bow level and giving it enough power to stay on plane.

With my 5.0MPI I usually cruised around 26 mph loaded with gear, two adults and two kids. (IIRC it was probably in the high 3K RPM range). Depending on your engine setup this will vary.

-Kevin

I swear this is the last question (or maybe not)

My DC breaker panel has a switch for "Emergency Bilge"
But i don't know where it is located and couldn't seem to see it in the bilge.

I have the usual bilge right when you open the hatch on a float switch and also manually with button in cockpit.

And for engine oil, 25w-40 quicksilver (any reason not to run synthetic over the "premium")?
 
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Don't know what engine you have, but we have (had) the same model 260DA. Mid-3,000 range will give you good economy, though. Buy the time you start hitting the upper 3,000 range and approach 4,000, the economy starts to drop off.
I found this and found it interesting, and chart to go along with it. Standard engine
It would suggest 4000 RPM is the sweet spot and 3500 is not far behind, at least for fuel economy

https://boattest.com/review/sea-ray/340_260-sundancer
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Newbie here! Bought a 99 260 Da from a friend who had it for 15+ years. He blew his motor, had it replaced and somehow blew it up again and gave up on the boat. She was sitting for a year and a half with leaky portholes and was a mess of mold on the inside. The cockpit upholstery wasnt terrible but wasnt great either. Gauge panels and steering wheel were trashed from the elements. I'll try to post several pics of all of these little projects as I bring "Wet Pleasure" (he named the boat not me!!!!) Back to life. I had the entire boat reupholstered cockpit and cabin and then realized just how gross the cabin carpet was. This week I've been working on ripping it all out. Tentatively planning to simply paint the wall sides and use eva foam for the floor as another gentlemen in the Facebook group did. I may also use some vinyl wood flooring, not too sure yet. One issue is that the glass work in the cabin is very rough, presumably sea ray knew they would be covering with carpet, so no need to finish things smooth.
 
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Having some trouble with pic uploads. Here are a couple of before pics
 

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