The official "Stray Current II" thread. '07 260DA

Well it’s got a lot of black paint on it…. So it’s goth….. and we know bad juju is goth …. I’m surprised you want to get rid of it….. but you do you
I never looked at it that way, but now that you mention it…

I’m still ready for a pair of white Yamahas or Suzukis!
 
Go black you always come back….. it’s all good
This is my one and only Merc. I will definitely be returning to the land of Japanese egg beaters!!

I sent out for a quote on a 275 Sea hunt a few weeks ago. As much as I enjoy not having a payment, it’s not terrible. Considerably less than this thing has been hitting me the last few months in repairs
 
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Bright colors coming along
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Alternator specifications for testing.
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Rotor resistance
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Within the margin of error. Pretty much anything within an ohm is good enough. Nothing is super accurate at such low resistances without spending BIG money on equipment. The excitation on this rotor runs 47 volts at full load so I hit it with 100v to ground and got an acceptable reading for insulation value. Rotor is good!
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Relative function is nice to compensate for test lead resistance.
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Coil 1-2 spec is .16 ohms and .3 is acceptable
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Coil 3-4 has the same spec and .2 is fine
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Infinity (over limits) between 2-3 indicates no shorting between coil 1-2 and coil 2-3 which is good

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coil 55-66 spec is 1.7 and I’m fine with 2.3. This is the excitation winding
 

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I hit 1 leg of coil 1-2 to ground and coil 3-4 to ground and found acceptable insulation strength. I also went between 2-3 to ensure appropriate insulation between the individual coils (not pictured) and got an acceptable reading.

Excitation coil 55-66 also passed insulation to ground and to 1-2/3-4.

My alternator is good for some clean slip rings, brushes and a full tune up to the genset
 
I had a mercruiser guy come listen and he seems to think it’s the upper carrier bearing and says my drive can probably be rebuilt for 3-4k with a new clutch and bearings if the gears are ok. Obviously I have to haul and bring him the drive before I can have a real number but that’s not horrible.

I now have a large yard at work and an excavator where I can pull my engine for the rear main seal. I may DIY that and the pan. He said probably 2500 for that depending on parts.

My mind keeps saying sell and tap out of boating entirely for awhile to save money. My mind also says scorched earth and maybe no issues for awhile.

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I like no payments. I don’t want a $1200+ payment for a new boat, I don’t want to cut a check and wipe myself out for a new boat. I also don’t want to buy another used one and be back in this spot

I’m also kind of tired of spending a payments worth of repairs minimum every month. And the aggravation of having to do them….
 
I love the way your thinking/leaning.
1st question and only the 1st question is,...
Does your "Mercruiser Guy" know you gonna put 35k+ and 425hp in front of that drive?
He had all the right answers when I spoke to him and came pretty well recommenced in a local facebook boating group. Oem parts only, dial indicators to check shaft tolerances on the blocks, etc, etc, etc. I don’t know how to build I drive so I hope he’s good. Supposedly he’s built bravos for some of the local go fast guys.

I’m also gonna call my MerCruiser guy from New Jersey and see if I can ship him my drive. I know I’m in good hands if I go that route. Won’t be cheap but I won’t have to worry about it



Honestly, if I go that 496 route, I’ll be tossing a new matching seacore drive on that seacore transom assembly.

Then again…
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+20k for full Simrad suite with fusion audio system (DIY)
 
Since I’m hauling out next weekend to send the drive off to be checked and the following weekend it’s going to get the engine pulled out for the rear main and pan. I figured I would check the compression.

At least I get a little silver lining

1. 180
2. 177
3. 178
4. 185
5. 183
6. 179
7. 179
8. 184

I’ll take an 8 pound spread with everything over 175 on a cold block, wide open throttle any day. Pretty damn good especially considering 1050 hrs… The plugs look good and uniform color as well

I’m still going to look at Sea Hunts and Robalos tomorrow.

I really did like my Sea Hunt and put over 1200 hours on it in five seasons…

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Still waiting on parts for little satan. I’m kind of at a standstill with it at this point.

I did get the new oil seal installed, and I gave the unit a bath. I had lofty plans of prepping and repainting most of the unit, but I see the paint adhered so poorly to the aluminum on the original factory coat, I’m just gonna chip off the loose paint and send it. I will be touching up any rusty components where they flange between the manifold and the catalyst leaked.

Still waiting on the new junction box assembly and a half dozen gaskets and hoses. Really glad I decided to go with the replacement stainless drip pan instead of trying to revive that crusty one under it now.
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Still trying to figure out my solution for a Mercruiser guy. Nobody calls back or follows up. I think I have a line on a marina that may be able to rebuild the drive and pull the engine and take care of the pan and seal. Probably have them do flappers and check the coupling and starter while it’s apart. The service manager is supposed to be coming out Saturday to take a listen. WTFKA


The new Cobias have really caught my eye. Mrs Current really likes the Cobia 280DC…
 
I had a mercruiser guy come listen and he seems to think it’s the upper carrier bearing and says my drive can probably be rebuilt for 3-4k with a new clutch and bearings if the gears are ok. Obviously I have to haul and bring him the drive before I can have a real number but that’s not horrible.

I now have a large yard at work and an excavator where I can pull my engine for the rear main seal. I may DIY that and the pan. He said probably 2500 for that depending on parts.

My mind keeps saying sell and tap out of boating entirely for awhile to save money. My mind also says scorched earth and maybe no issues for awhile.

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I like no payments. I don’t want a $1200+ payment for a new boat, I don’t want to cut a check and wipe myself out for a new boat. I also don’t want to buy another used one and be back in this spot

I’m also kind of tired of spending a payments worth of repairs minimum every month. And the aggravation of having to do them….
DO IT!!!

You're gonna love it. I took 5 of my buddies over to Rock Hall last season. All of them weight 280 lbs or more. I had a full water tank, full HWH, quarter full holding tank, 2 decent sized coolers, and about 55 gallons of fuel. After we all got on board one of them said, "You're never gonna get this thing on plane.". My reply was, "If it does with no problem, you gonna pay for everything I do today?". The fool said yes. I had the best day with the guys in Rock Hall ever.

I feel your pain on the repair bills brother. I've got $9500 invested in major repairs this year. My engine is sitting in the mechanic's shop until he reopens in March. Nothing wrong with it, but it had to come out so my transom assembly could be replaced. I started taking on water last year to the point where I wrapped up the season a couple of weeks early. Mine's 2 years older than yours, so the transom needed another overhaul of everything. I would have just let the mechanic repair all of the individual items, but back in 2015 I broke one of the ears on the inner transom plate that the 2 big bolts that hold the steering actuator go through. I fixed it "temporarily" with a piece of 1/4" flat steel that I shaped with an angle grinder to make a patch plate to hold the broken off piece in place. I drilled and tapped into what remained on the transom plate and bolted the broken off piece back on. I've checked it regularly and it was always tight and working well, but it's finally time for me to pay the stupid tax on that one. PSA for anyone reading this that may not know better. If you remove the steering actuator be very careful to make sure that everything is aligned properly while tightening the 2 large bolts holding it in place. It takes shocking little force to snap the ear that the bolt passes through off if the actuator is not aligned properly while you are tightening it. Sorry to make that red, but it is something that I had wished I read somewhere before I did it. I hope it saves somebody else someday. Someone outside of the boat distracted me. At any rate. If you do get the 8.1 package, you'll need the etxra expensive "HP" transom assembly in lieu of the regularly expensive "HP" transom assembly. I checked with lots of parts people. Not a single one could explain what was mechanically different, but all could explain that it's $600 different. The mechanic has my engine sitting in the shop for the first time since I've owned the boat, so no sense putting it back in without doing some of the essentials. I've got 2 complete exhaust manifold kits ($1700), new spark plugs and wires, 5 gallons of new coolant so he can drain and flush it before he puts it back in. Then there's a new HWH ($325) since it's easy to replace while the engine is out, the quiet motor upgrade kit for the Vacuflush system with 4 new duck bills ($301), and I'm waiting for a new Cool Fuel module housing ($630) to arrive so that I can swap the parts from the old housing over. That one was leaking at the water line connections. The only saving grace is that the boat, as well as all of the above is paid for. I gave the mechanic $6k in December to buy the transom assembly and cover the engine removal and wrapping the boat. I'm starting off with him owing me money and parts. But at least I should be down to the small stuff for a bit.

Ya know... After seeing all of the other work you've done... I'm gonna be your Sam Kinison style guardian angel. Imagine this in his voice... Come on.... you know you want to... you just gotta know what the hell is making that noise... you know that this thread is totally worthless without pictures of the guts of that outdrive splayed all over your workbench... you know you gotta tear that sucker apart and see what's making that noise... it still operates fine... might be only one or two bad parts... you're gonna lose sleep over it for the next 5 years... what if it was a cheap repair... you're gonna have to get a new one anyway... you might even get some new tools while your at it... what do you have to lose... you might even save some money... well... just kidding... scratch that last part.... hehehe...

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DO IT!!!

You're gonna love it. I took 5 of my buddies over to Rock Hall last season. All of them weight 280 lbs or more. I had a full water tank, full HWH, quarter full holding tank, 2 decent sized coolers, and about 55 gallons of fuel. After we all got on board one of them said, "You're never gonna get this thing on plane.". My reply was, "If it does with no problem, you gonna pay for everything I do today?". The fool said yes. I had the best day with the guys in Rock Hall ever.

I feel your pain on the repair bills brother. I've got $9500 invested in major repairs this year. My engine is sitting in the mechanic's shop until he reopens in March. Nothing wrong with it, but it had to come out so my transom assembly could be replaced. I started taking on water last year to the point where I wrapped up the season a couple of weeks early. Mine's 2 years older than yours, so the transom needed another overhaul of everything. I would have just let the mechanic repair all of the individual items, but back in 2015 I broke one of the ears on the inner transom plate that the 2 big bolts that hold the steering actuator go through. I fixed it "temporarily" with a piece of 1/4" flat steel that I shaped with an angle grinder to make a patch plate to hold the broken off piece in place. I drilled and tapped into what remained on the transom plate and bolted the broken off piece back on. I've checked it regularly and it was always tight and working well, but it's finally time for me to pay the stupid tax on that one. PSA for anyone reading this that may not know better. If you remove the steering actuator be very careful to make sure that everything is aligned properly while tightening the 2 large bolts holding it in place. It takes shocking little force to snap the ear that the bolt passes through off if the actuator is not aligned properly while you are tightening it. Sorry to make that red, but it is something that I had wished I read somewhere before I did it. I hope it saves somebody else someday. Someone outside of the boat distracted me. At any rate. If you do get the 8.1 package, you'll need the etxra expensive "HP" transom assembly in lieu of the regularly expensive "HP" transom assembly. I checked with lots of parts people. Not a single one could explain what was mechanically different, but all could explain that it's $600 different. The mechanic has my engine sitting in the shop for the first time since I've owned the boat, so no sense putting it back in without doing some of the essentials. I've got 2 complete exhaust manifold kits ($1700), new spark plugs and wires, 5 gallons of new coolant so he can drain and flush it before he puts it back in. Then there's a new HWH ($325) since it's easy to replace while the engine is out, the quiet motor upgrade kit for the Vacuflush system with 4 new duck bills ($301), and I'm waiting for a new Cool Fuel module housing ($630) to arrive so that I can swap the parts from the old housing over. That one was leaking at the water line connections. The only saving grace is that the boat, as well as all of the above is paid for. I gave the mechanic $6k in December to buy the transom assembly and cover the engine removal and wrapping the boat. I'm starting off with him owing me money and parts. But at least I should be down to the small stuff for a bit.

Ya know... After seeing all of the other work you've done... I'm gonna be your Sam Kinison style guardian angel. Imagine this in his voice... Come on.... you know you want to... you just gotta know what the hell is making that noise... you know that this thread is totally worthless without pictures of the guts of that outdrive splayed all over your workbench... you know you gotta tear that sucker apart and see what's making that noise... it still operates fine... might be only one or two bad parts... you're gonna lose sleep over it for the next 5 years... what if it was a cheap repair... you're gonna have to get a new one anyway... you might even get some new tools while your at it... what do you have to lose... you might even save some money... well... just kidding... scratch that last part.... hehehe...

Sam_Kinison_Angel_MWC.jpg

At this point I am 98% certain this boat will be repaired and sold with everything addressed and in operational condition.

Whether I pull the trigger on a 2024 28CC or 28DC with twin Yamahas or divest myself from boating entirely remains to be seen. At this point it truly looks more like I’ll be hanging it up, though temporary or permanent is still in the air. I’m tired, and I’ve been taking a massive beating the last few years.

I’m seriously ready to just downsize my liabilities and aggravations. There’s no rest either way and once your possessions start to own you it sucks the joy out of life quickly. Boating used to be an escape, not a full time liability
 
I can certainly understand that. I haven't been on here in a while so your thread has grown quite a bit since I last saw it. I've clearly missed a lot.

It's unfortunate that the pictures seem to have been disconnected from your earlier posts in this thread. I thought that you had at some point done work in the cabin and posted pics about that curved panel above the cabin stairs. Mine came lose on the head side and is drooping about 1/4". Problem is that the engine idling makes it move and I get a constant sound of the vinyl on it rubbing on the vinyl on the cabin wall. There's a really long capped screw on that side that is loose. I tried for almost an hour to get it screwed back up, but I could not find the stinking screw hole. I was gonna drop it down a little more to see where the screw goes, but Sea Ray siliconed the other side of it to the fiberglass above the door. They did a good job and it still looks nice, so I didn't want to cut it to remove that panel just to see where the screw hole is. I can't remember exactly what it was but Sea Ray did something funky when they attached the dome light fixture hiding the other screw to the ceiling when they built to boat. I think that I'm going to have to break the light to remove it to get to the other screw. I need to buy an inspection camera.
 
I can certainly understand that. I haven't been on here in a while so your thread has grown quite a bit since I last saw it. I've clearly missed a lot.

It's unfortunate that the pictures seem to have been disconnected from your earlier posts in this thread. I thought that you had at some point done work in the cabin and posted pics about that curved panel above the cabin stairs. Mine came lose on the head side and is drooping about 1/4". Problem is that the engine idling makes it move and I get a constant sound of the vinyl on it rubbing on the vinyl on the cabin wall. There's a really long capped screw on that side that is loose. I tried for almost an hour to get it screwed back up, but I could not find the stinking screw hole. I was gonna drop it down a little more to see where the screw goes, but Sea Ray siliconed the other side of it to the fiberglass above the door. They did a good job and it still looks nice, so I didn't want to cut it to remove that panel just to see where the screw hole is. I can't remember exactly what it was but Sea Ray did something funky when they attached the dome light fixture hiding the other screw to the ceiling when they built to boat. I think that I'm going to have to break the light to remove it to get to the other screw. I need to buy an inspection camera.
Unfortunately, the pictures seem to have gotten destroyed in the website hack a few months back. I got a new phone in February 2023, so I do not have any of the originals to repost.

sad times.

I’ve had a few things with the cabin interior apart but I can’t remember specifics about that particular part
 
hey @skibum:

do you have the 375 horse 496 or the 425 horse 496HO?

what prop and drive ratio do you have, and what are your WOT and cruise numbers?
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how do they compare to these?
 
I've got the 425HP version. Drive ratio is 2.2:1 and I have 26p props.

Looking at your 1st picture, at 27MPH, I'd be at about 3450-3500 RPM and in the range of 14.3 - 14.6 GPH. Not too different.

The second pic... I only run mine once or twice a year to it's red line, which is 5000 RPM. When I have done so, I have never held it there long enough for the boat to stop accelerating and settle in at a top speed. I have seen 45 MPH (and still pulling) at 26+ GPH but I have no idea what the actual top speed is. I suspect that it would be on the north side of 50 MPH. Every once in a while, some joker in a little speedy boat will start messing around showing off and they seem to get a bit nonplussed as they realize that they are watching the stern of a cruiser pulling away. Must be tough to explain that one to the girlfriend as she slaps you and says, "You mean to tell me we could have gone fast, had a place to sleep, AND a head that flushes all at the same time?". :cool:

Quite frankly, a 260DA does not handle all that well at more than 40 MPH and I'm really not comfortable driving it at that speed for very long. It is impressive, though. The real benefit is just being able to throw whatever you can fit on the boat and having no concerns at all about getting it up on plane.
 
I've got the 425HP version. Drive ratio is 2.2:1 and I have 26p props.

Looking at your 1st picture, at 27MPH, I'd be at about 3450-3500 RPM and in the range of 14.3 - 14.6 GPH. Not too different.

The second pic... I only run mine once or twice a year to it's red line, which is 5000 RPM. When I have done so, I have never held it there long enough for the boat to stop accelerating and settle in at a top speed. I have seen 45 MPH (and still pulling) at 26+ GPH but I have no idea what the actual top speed is. I suspect that it would be on the north side of 50 MPH. Every once in a while, some joker in a little speedy boat will start messing around showing off and they seem to get a bit nonplussed as they realize that they are watching the stern of a cruiser pulling away. Must be tough to explain that one to the girlfriend as she slaps you and says, "You mean to tell me we could have gone fast, had a place to sleep, AND a head that flushes all at the same time?". :cool:

Quite frankly, a 260DA does not handle all that well at more than 40 MPH and I'm really not comfortable driving it at that speed for very long. It is impressive, though. The real benefit is just being able to throw whatever you can fit on the boat and having no concerns at all about getting it up on plane.
I really like the idea of 35 to 3600 RPMs at 27 or 28. What I’ve noticed is this hull seems to be really happy at 32 but I don’t like pushing the 6.2 that hard.

I suspect given the hull design with the right trim it would so be very happy running north of 50 as well, but that may need 4 blades to hold the bow up high enough.

I keep playing with the numbers and a 496 mag HO with a new 2.2:1 SeaCore drive with warranty makes way more sense financially than ordering a new boat, not that either one actually makes any sense.

Your story kinda reminds me of a time I went to pass a big formula PC with my center console WOT at about 40. Right as I went to go around the guy, he bumped up the throttle a little bit until he was next to me running parallel. Then he popped the captains calls open and dropped the hammer, and all I could hear was screaming superchargers and bellowing big blocks as he ran away like I fouled my prop.

It probably cost him more money in gas for that minute or two than I had spent that weekend though
 

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