To those with Weaver Davits

Craigalan

New Member
Sep 15, 2014
428
Great Lakes
Boat Info
2000 Sundancer 270 with all the fixins...
Engines
Merc 7.4, 310 horses
2000 270DA

A few questions for those with Weaver Davits...

1) when dinghy is in place, do you still have access to your swim platform, at least enough to board vessel through transom door?

2) for kids swimming from platform, how much of a Toe Stubber are they?

3) Any regrets, or do overs you would do instead?

Happy Easter to CSR!
 
You can definitely retain access to your swim platform. It would really only be the support arms that hold the davit up that cross the platform. You put them high or low - so you go over them or below them. Don't put them smack in the middle.

As for toe stubbers, I used quick release plates and extensions/drops on mine. I don't recall ever a time of stubbing the toe (or anyone else on my boat). When swimming, some kids liked the grab handle at times.

For running with a tender vertically, and being price friendly - Weavers are hard to beat. The motor of the tender tends to be the challenge to work with. Yes, they have the weaver leaver to help with that - but it's still a pain. If you see my picture, I had an Achilles air floor and a 2.5 yamaha that was supported very well on the weavers. It wasn't able to plane out - but it was plenty of motor for putting around the bay and ship-to-shore.

Weaver.jpg
 
pretty happy with them. I have the quick davits and arm. Works well.
 
I had installed them on the Jackie J III, a Regal 3560, and was generally happy.
1) given that it was a 50 mph+ boat, I had the stanchions short to be reasonably tight to the transom, vs. hanging out there like a parachute. I McGyvored an extension to use at dock or anchor, which provided wide open access to the swim platform.
2) my kids were young at the time - no stubbed toes.
3). I would have done it again with the same configuration (i.e., a light, soft floor dingy). The one modification I had to make to my original configuration was to add the Weaver Lever. I had an 8hp Yamaha outboard and on one of our longer trips, the patch started to rip off the dingy. The lever firmly solved the problem.

Paul
 
I would say the biggest disadvantage to them is the metal hanging off the dinghy. It can mark the boat up when monuvering around it. Also when latching it on the boat in rough water, you will mark the boat up.
 
Weaver has different systems. I use the snap davits. It's a very simple system. When not in use I remove the brackets, so there aren't toe stubbers. I have a large boat so I still can get to my platform and come in through the transom door. When underway I have the dinghy tied off tight against the transom. When at anchor or on a mooring I flop the dinghy into the water while still attached to the boat. When the boat is at the dock and the dinghy is on the davits I use a boat pole as a standoff from the transom. It is a very affordable system. There are better systems but I am to cheap. I agree with the poster that you have to watch the brackets on your dinghy, they could mark up a boat.
 
Greats posts, and very informative for me. Im glad you mentioned the good possibility of marking up the boat. That little nugget I hadn't heard before, and is a slight detractor for me.
 
Greats posts, and very informative for me. Im glad you mentioned the good possibility of marking up the boat. That little nugget I hadn't heard before, and is a slight detractor for me.

Pretty easy fix.... When you tie the boat up or come along side, turn it around to the side that doesn't have the hardware. Pretty simple. I am shocked that folks have damaged their boat because they didn't think to just flip it around?

option 2 is to just attach the snap davits for storing the boat.... No need to tie off. Makes getting in and out easier as well.
 
And if you use the transom arc, it is quick release. No problem with that attach point hitting or touching anything. If the mid mount is still really bothering you, wrap a wet rag around it. You will use a rag to wipe the dinghy down anyway hopefully.
 
2000 270DA

A few questions for those with Weaver Davits...

1) when dinghy is in place, do you still have access to your swim platform, at least enough to board vessel through transom door?

2) for kids swimming from platform, how much of a Toe Stubber are they?

3) Any regrets, or do overs you would do instead?

Happy Easter to CSR!

I just saw this tonight - FWIW - I custom made a single connection point to the oar lock and my grab bar to avoid drilling holes on the transom locker. I used a rail mounting bracket from something and made a stainless steel bar with a twist and a stainless know to thread onto the the oarlock stud. When the brackets are removed (quick disconnect unit by Weaver) they are not really an issue. You do have to "duck" when boarding from the strbd side to get under the bar. They work great IMO.





PIC with brackets removed

 
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Looks great. That would be my exact setup too. Got the Zodiac delivered yesterday, so Im in the planning/excitement phase.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Most small sport cruisers boats will use the Weaver Davits for the simple reason THEY WORK. But as I have posted in the past, please remember that these same small sport cruisers have the stern light in the transom. You may not boat at night, but lights are required in "reduced visibility", meaning fog, rain, etc...

You will need to install the appropriate stern light above the level of the highest tube.

Rich
 
Ok - so using the oar lock with a threaded insert is GENIOUS! You don't have to glue another pad!

Craigalan - if you have a way to do that, do THAT. With your short tender (I think you said you got an 8'6'' air floor) and light weight - using one support would be fine.

I would suggest using a transom arc (like I did) - as it is removable, and you don't have to glue a pad. That means, you would just be glueing 1 pad to your boat.

If you can get the thread size for the oar lock - you might send weaver a picture and have them custom make you a support pole. They could put a rail mount or a quick release on one side, and the threaded side on the other. That would be a VERY cool setup.

If you look at the Yamaha 2.5 MSH - it's light enough that you could store it like I did on my boat.


Here's the 'davit kit' -- and I am sure if you are east coast that Defender would help you put this package together for the same/less money with their big sale...

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/weav...c-snap-davit-kit-for-inflatable-boats-fix-177
 
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Still really like the Dinghy Caddy. Only downside I have found is I need to get a custom cover made of some find that fits around the chains to keep rain out of the dinghy...ideas welcome!! If you have a RIB, you typically don't have to add a single thing to the dinghy, which is a nice bonus. It doesn't block visibility but it does block the stern light. I rewired the anchor light to come on all-around with the nav lights, and rewired the stern light to the Aft Accessory switch.

Dinghy Caddy 2.jpg

You can remove the block and tackle when at the dock to make access to the transom storage easy.

Dinghy Caddy.jpg

Dinghy Caddy - Launched.jpg

Once launched, the entire assembly swings down into the water. It doubles as a guard to keep kids away from the outdrives, and a ladder or spot to hold onto.

It can be attached with Weaver quick connect plates so is easy to remove if not in use. By the way, the Weaver plates can be polished to a mirror finish...it makes them look a lot better!
 
Most small sport cruisers boats will use the Weaver Davits for the simple reason THEY WORK. But as I have posted in the past, please remember that these same small sport cruisers have the stern light in the transom. You may not boat at night, but lights are required in "reduced visibility", meaning fog, rain, etc...

You will need to install the appropriate stern light above the level of the highest tube.

Rich
Our Sundancer model comes with a light that is so high that it is a foot over the Bimini top so that is not a concern
 
I just saw this tonight - FWIW - I custom made a single connection point to the oar lock and my grab bar to avoid drilling holes on the transom locker. I used a rail mounting bracket from something and made a stainless steel bar with a twist and a stainless know to thread onto the the oarlock stud. When the brackets are removed (quick disconnect unit by Weaver) they are not really an issue. You do have to "duck" when boarding from the strbd side to get under the bar. They work great IMO.





PIC with brackets removed


My setup is almost exactly the same. The difference is that I have RIB that weighs more so I couldn't tip it up with just a rope. My solution was to install a pull-up cleat on transom and use a 4:1 block-and-tackle to tip it up. I also mount my 15 hp outboard on the swim platform. When leaving the boat I tip the RIB against the transom and it covers the outboard nicely.

Oh, and I have young kids (currently 5 and 8). No one on the boat has ever stubbed a toe on the Weaver quick release brackets, and we use the swim platform nearly every time we are on the boat.
 
Boatrboy...nice simple setup. That looks exactly like what I envision for my rig. Good pics. Thanks.
 
I do not want to seal your thread but I noticed in CougarCruiser that the motor was on your dinghy. Does the davit system have any difficulty supporting the motor's weight? How big a motor is it and what is the weight. Looks like a good way to store your motor.
 
Boatrboy...nice simple setup. That looks exactly like what I envision for my rig. Good pics. Thanks.
You are welcome- I might have made a drawing for the stainless knob I made - let me know if you need it
Mark
 
I do not want to seal your thread but I noticed in CougarCruiser that the motor was on your dinghy. Does the davit system have any difficulty supporting the motor's weight? How big a motor is it and what is the weight. Looks like a good way to store your motor.


I had a yamaha 2.5 msh on it. Weight 35-ish pounds. No issues with weight. I did have a transom arc rather than a pad on the tube.
 

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