Trailer actuator (brake cylinder?) problem

quailrunner

New Member
May 26, 2010
140
Cayuga Lake, New York
Boat Info
2006 185 Sport
Engines
V6 Mercruizer 4.3l
Folks,

Just towed the boat to the mechanic for winterizing (its flooding here in NY and the life isn't safe anymore), and had a bad smell during the 8 mile tow. Pulled the plug (afterwards, of course) to look into the fluid reservoir right behind the coupler (actuator, I think?) and it was dry and rusty. Listed it as an issue for the mechanic to look at, but I'm wondering how much to expect; new actuator, new brakes?
 
How old is the trailer? Sounds like the brakes are frozen and dragging. I had a trailer almost catch fire it got so hot from a dragging drum brake. You may need to replace the whole backing plates and brake lines. If the actuator is rusty inside it sounds pretty hopeless. This may get expensive if you can't do it yourself.
 
Actually, surge brake actuators are pretty simple devices. Usually they can be rebuilt (new seals) for a couple bucks. I "rebuilt" mine by taking the surge actuator off the trailer and just taking it apart and cleaning it with brake cleaner. If the cylinder bore is rusted, you can still hone it and replace the piston seal. On mine, I removed the pins that hold the assembly in the trailer housing, unscrew the brake line and withdraw the master cylinder and shock absorber from the trailer. Now it's just a matter of putting the master cylinder on the bench and taking it apart. Don't be intimidated. This a leading edge technology for 1920. It's a VERY simple device. A piston and a valve body. Thats it. One moving part. Check this out-it even has a DIY video. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Atwood/85841.html
 
Thanks! Good video. Here's the current question: The trailer (w. boat) is at the mechanics. It made it the 10 miles to the mechanic with some bad smells, but no issue. Will it make it the 10 miles back (with the last mile being a downhill tow on a gravel road where the grade easily reaches 6-7% a couple of times)? I'd rather pay once for the brakes than pay to have the boat, trailer and truck extracted from the woods, but if it is *dragging*, it sounds like I really don't have to worry about that (I'm not too excited about the idea of driving it back unrepaired; if the mechanic says anything less than "full replacement" I'm going with the repair at the shop...)
 
Had this same problem with my other boat. I went to a trailer part store and they match it up with a remanufacture actuators for half the price of a new one. Flushed out the break lines and cyclinders and ready to roll.
 

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