Transom Door lockplate screws stripped from bulkhead

[Pilot]

I'm sure this has never happened to anyone else.

It's the male stationary lockplate that the door latch locks onto and locks your transom door. The screwws are now falling out because their stripped and also the gel coat around them is chipping. What works best to repair this and give it strength. Should I use a screw w/ a molly? The hole on the plate is only so large, so a self tapping screw is too large. I tied epoxy and that doesn't hold.

This is my 3rd Searay and this has happened each time. It is definitely a very poor, cheap design on Searays part.

Looking for a good permanent solution.

Thanks

 

[magster65]

I'm curious to know why epoxy didn't work? This is a repair where epoxy might work better than brittle gelcoat.
Try making up tiny batches and filling the screw holes a bit at a time. Put the epoxy right inside the holes with a mini screw driver or something. Build it up until it's almost covered over and flush then (once cured) drill a pilot hole and carefully put the screws in just snug. Put a dab of Sikaflux behind the latch to help hold it.

 

[Pilot]

Thanks

I'll try it again, the screws are just very small and cant seem to grip well, the epoxy just gives when I tighten it.

I've also bought a number of different screws for tapping, mollys, etc,. but I'll need to drill out the hole to enlarge it.

I wish Searay would put more thought into this design, it is just plain cheap and unreliable for the weight of the door.

 

[magster65]

Can you reach in behind the latch and put a plate in there of some sort and screw into that?
If you end up having to enlarge the holes with bigger screws, make sure to chamfer the holes to stop the gelcoat from cracking on ya'.

 

[tobnpr]

Bit of a disadvantage without seeing a pic, but I'd probably do the following:

1) If possible, through bolt. I guess it's not, or you would have already done it...

2) I'd use 5200 on the back of the plate before refastening with the screws. That "should" hold it...

3) I've used Garelick SS togglers in a multitude of applications on the boat where I need a lot of strength but no access for through bolting. You need 1/2" holes, however, to mount them and they take standard 1/4" /20 bolts.

 

[fwebster]

I think your problem may be the epoxy you are using. Is it the regular 5 minute stuff you get at a hardware store? It has its place in the world, but West Systems epoxy thickened with #404 filler then injected into the holes with a syringe will fix the door mount.

Sea Ray puts a lot of fiberglass cloth/mat in the door mount so it is usually thick enough to hold screws. What happens when the screws won't hold is that they have worked loose and we don't see them until they have wallowed the hole out too far to hold the screw.

 

[Pilot]

Thanks for the response. Yes, I've been using the 3 M Marine Bondo Epoxy Resin. It sets in 5 minutes, then cures in 1 hour.

Is this the same product your are recommending?
Do you have a specific brand I can ask for it by?

Thanks