Unknown model help!!

Cool boat.
You sound like you have a good plan and know what you are doing.
I may be staying the obvious, but you should change the impeller and drain and pull the manifolds for an inspection before you try to crank it.
The impeller is toast, for sure, but check manifolds first.
Since you have no history on the boat, pull the manifolds first before anything and check for water instrusion to the valves, rust, clogged water passages, freeze cracked manifolds, etc. If all looks good, go back with new gaskets and put them back on. Minimal cost so far. Mostly your time.
Then do the impeller. Maybe $45 bucks. While you have the drive split apart, look for cracks in the housing, etc.
With that done you got maybe $100 and one day into it.
If the boat has passed those points, then move to the ignition switch.
The bellows, etc will need to be changed, but that can wait until you know if the engine and drive work. I would not put it in the water without changing the bellows, if it were mine, assuming it runs.
You surely already know lots of fiberglass and interior work is on the way. The engine is the unknown at this point.
A hydro locked blown engine from water intrusion may be why it was abandoned.

Also, the trailer tires may look good, but they are not. Old trailer tires are bad, period. Do not trust them. Look at the date codes, not wear. Trailer tires rarely wear out from worn tread. They age out. 5-6 years is as long as you want to run trailer tires. You will also need to pull the hubs and pack bearings/replace seals. Easy, cheap do-it-yourself job.

Good luck. Please keep the thread updated.
 
Cool boat.
You sound like you have a good plan and know what you are doing.
I may be staying the obvious, but you should change the impeller and drain and pull the manifolds for an inspection before you try to crank it.
The impeller is toast, for sure, but check manifolds first.
Since you have no history on the boat, pull the manifolds first before anything and check for water instrusion to the valves, rust, clogged water passages, freeze cracked manifolds, etc. If all looks good, go back with new gaskets and put them back on. Minimal cost so far. Mostly your time.
Then do the impeller. Maybe $45 bucks. While you have the drive split apart, look for cracks in the housing, etc.
With that done you got maybe $100 and one day into it.
If the boat has passed those points, then move to the ignition switch.
The bellows, etc will need to be changed, but that can wait until you know if the engine and drive work. I would not put it in the water without changing the bellows, if it were mine, assuming it runs.
You surely already know lots of fiberglass and interior work is on the way. The engine is the unknown at this point.
A hydro locked blown engine from water intrusion may be why it was abandoned.

Also, the trailer tires may look good, but they are not. Old trailer tires are bad, period. Do not trust them. Look at the date codes, not wear. Trailer tires rarely wear out from worn tread. They age out. 5-6 years is as long as you want to run trailer tires. You will also need to pull the hubs and pack bearings/replace seals. Easy, cheap do-it-yourself job.

Good luck. Please keep the thread updated.
This is good information. I didn't think about the manifolds, but I'll check those out.
The list of things that I assume are toast includes:
-belts
-plugs
-possibly the carb needing a rebuild
-all fluids changed
The lower unit is sitting in the highest position and held there with a rope. I'm going to also assume the rams are shot, hopefully it was just a poor man's trailer clips. I'm hoping the guy just left it due to his misfortune and not because it's junk.

The trailer made it 100 miles from it's original destination.... I like to live dangerously.
That list is also growing
-tires
-repack bearings
-brake job
-make sure surge brakes are actually working
-new lights.

I'm really hoping this doesn't turn into an onion, the deeper you go the more you want to cry. I have a budget to just see if it will even run. If it fires up I'll be OK with spending more time/money on it. If I cannot, it's going to sell it to cover my costs.
 
This is good information. I didn't think about the manifolds, but I'll check those out.
The list of things that I assume are toast includes:
-belts
-plugs
-possibly the carb needing a rebuild
-all fluids changed
The lower unit is sitting in the highest position and held there with a rope. I'm going to also assume the rams are shot, hopefully it was just a poor man's trailer clips. I'm hoping the guy just left it due to his misfortune and not because it's junk.

The trailer made it 100 miles from it's original destination.... I like to live dangerously.
That list is also growing
-tires
-repack bearings
-brake job
-make sure surge brakes are actually working
-new lights.

I'm really hoping this doesn't turn into an onion, the deeper you go the more you want to cry. I have a budget to just see if it will even run. If it fires up I'll be OK with spending more time/money on it. If I cannot, it's going to sell it to cover my costs.

I don’t want to discourage you.
The boat looks like a fine project - lots of potential. Just be smart and realize it will take time, money, and lots of your labor. No way you can justify paying a mechanic to do everything to be done.

You have a plan. Start investigating the “show-stoppers” first: Blown engine; cracked heads or block, stripped gears in the outdrive, etc. if you don’t have the budget to replace those items or have them repaired, project stops before it starts - before you spend weeks on cosmetics. If all the mechanics pass, looks like a keeper.

I just completed a 12-year project on my 1989 Sea Ray. From axle rebuild and leaf springs to refiberglassing hull and transom, steering pin seal job, steering ram, starter, valve covers, manifolds, fuel pump, seats, interior, and on and on. Did it myself. Very satisfying. Lots of labor. Lots of money. But...got a good boat.
Find a place to park your project, under a cover, and get to work!!!
Take your time.
The guys on this forum will guide you.
 
That rig looks like my 73 SRV. but I'm not certain mine is a 73 .its not on searay.com. it has all the paper work and original manuals tho. The horns are identical but mine is on the other side. I dont know what you did with it but the first thing I would do is see if the engine runs .all the hydraulics on mine are behind the engine .if rats got in there and damaged anything you would almost need to yank the motor ofcourse if the outdrive and bearings are shot which they probably are you would need to remove the motor anyway. Also where is the hull ID on it?
 

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