Used Transom Assembly - Is this early Bravo-itis?

Brandon270DA

New Member
Sep 2, 2019
26
Chesapeake, VA
Boat Info
1998 270 Sundancer DA "Wide"
Engines
7.4L (454) Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drive
I have bravo-itis on my 1998 Bravo three. Looks like all the photos on the internet with 100% blockage. The mechanic that was supposed to install the kit to fix it broke one of the kit's bolts in my transom assembly while pushing the plastic ring in.... $400 repair has turned into a potentially $4000 new transom assembly. We've come to an agreement and I've opted to find a used transom assembly instead of make that investment.

The problem is I don't know what a good water inlet is supposed to look like. Attached is the transom assembly I'm looking at for $850. Off a trailered deck boat. It is completely clear and smooth with a hard plastic ring inside. I assume this is what crushes in bravo-itis. Or is this plastic ring the fix that was put in and I should buy it today?
 

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I have two used bravo 3 transom assemblies that are fresh water, I replaced them because the steering pin seals were leaking and they had a little play in the steering. Easy fixes with the assembly on the bench. If you are interested in them I would sell for 400 each as they are just collecting dust. They are complete with trim rams, new U joint and shift bellows.
 
No doubt your assembly can be repaired. How much worst does it look than the pic you posted ? The new plastic tube works well if there is little corrosion on the flange surface, like in the pic you posted. Your guy sounds like a hack, best to find someone else that can do simple installs without breaking new stuff. He should of chased those threads first
 
This is what my current transom assembly looks like with the bolt stuck in it. They drilled 'relief holes' while trying to get the broken bolt out...the brand new 2019 bolt. The mechanic tried to tell me this is something that just happens on old boats (despite old bolts 1998 coming out just fine) and he worked parts for a marina for 10 years and has facebook groups of mechanics where they say this has happened to before. I say it happened because he torqued the living hell out of it while pressing the new tube in and then couldn't back it out.

After I get the engine back in the boat I'm bringing it to the house.
 

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"relief holes"? that's just plain incompetence. I'd threaten his ass. Your assembly looked fine for a simple repair before this Bozo got his mitts on it. I'd be beyond livid
 
I don’t think you should be paying for his errors and/or incompetence.
 
You assembly is in better condition than the $850 one, I don't see any corrosion. I'd have it removed , repaired and resealed, but not by him.
 
Thanks, all. Ill pull it and bring it to a machine shop closer to home to extract the bolt.

Other option is to seal it and thru-hull it.
 
Update - bought a local transom assembly and will have an extra after I fix the crappy repair work. Goes on the boat this week with the engine. We’ll see if we can get her on the water on the weekend.
 
Check the wood around the keyhole when its off. Glue both sides of the transom seal gasket
 
Because the mechanic broke off an easy out inside the hole (very hard) and then drilled ‘relief holes’ around it. Because he panicked after getting the bolt stuck, removed the engine, and then started grabbing random tools off the real mechanic’s desk and drilled holes in a $3500 transom assembly. Who knows why he didn’t call someone until after he completely f’d it all up.
 
100 percent the shops fault and they are responsible to pay for your new transom assembly,
SMALL CLAIMS COURT
I'd get my boat outa there and serve them with court papers, they will likely pay before it goes to court
 

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