Westerbeke 7.6 BTD random shut downs

This one is their "Max Temp", a thin coating would be my suggestion.
https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...CqLtY5V1-ZmxS-MJYJhoCDE8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Just went to their website, the Optimum Red is their highest temp rating, slightly better than the copper. Confusing as there is about 6 different versions of RED.

upload_2022-7-17_11-23-46.png


Does this stuff also act as an adhesive? In other words, will I be able to disassemble easily in the future???

Regardless a tube has been ordered.
 
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There should be nothing high temperature on that genset except for the exhaust gas temperature.
First I would sandblast the area then fill with Permatex SteelWeld or JB Weld and machine down.
then go back with the OEM seal if any. Or, put a thin coating of that high temp silicone you are showing.
 
There should be nothing high temperature on that genset except for the exhaust gas temperature.
First I would sandblast the area then fill with Permatex SteelWeld or JB Weld and machine down.
then go back with the OEM seal if any. Or, put a thin coating of that high temp silicone you are showing.

I would prefer not to have to remove the manifold at this point in the season, as thats getting pretty deep into it, and NOTHING ever goes to plan when I work on the Westerbeke!! I have visions of stripped threads, and broken studs...

The old gasket seems to be providing an acceptable seal, but when I get everything back tougher with the new sensors/gaskets, I'd like to be sure.

This may be a long term solution, or it may need to be torn down at some point and fixed as you suggest. We shall see.
 
New exhaust temperature sensor installed and wired. Seems the gasket wasn't sealing very well. Added a bead of the high temp RTV and a new gasket.

20220726_112534.jpg


Looks like the manifold will be in the schedule for this winter.
 
oh i'm glad i just read this thread. I'm at the boat warming the thing up and made some adjustments (mine was running about 3-4hz high under load) and was about to pull the elbow. I've decided that will likely wait until October now
 
Came across this in the Westerbeke Manual.

Proceedure on how to attach the exhaust elbow.

Cliff note version.

- Use a High Tack RTV on the manifold face ONLY.
- Torque clamp to 8-10 Lb-ft or 96-120 lb-in

DE431825-22C6-4F3D-A15C-5F99E89FC9C5.png
 
Dave if you are still having issues with the exhaust, a short term fix can be use a flat file on both surfaces and then use a thin film of grease on the gasket if the gasket isn't metal on both sides.

Another approach is you can use Silkolene, that is for turbo sealing but works really well, also really expensive. If you use Silkolene then you don't have to use the file and can use the old gasket. That would be a temp fix until you can get the surfaces machined or replace them as needed. But I never use silicone on anything exhaust related.

https://www.silmid.com/us/sealants/...ure-jointing-compound-225gm-tube-was-renolit/
 
Dave if you are still having issues with the exhaust, a short term fix can be use a flat file on both surfaces and then use a thin film of grease on the gasket if the gasket isn't metal on both sides.

Another approach is you can use Silkolene, that is for turbo sealing but works really well, also really expensive. If you use Silkolene then you don't have to use the file and can use the old gasket. That would be a temp fix until you can get the surfaces machined or replace them as needed. But I never use silicone on anything exhaust related.

https://www.silmid.com/us/sealants/...ure-jointing-compound-225gm-tube-was-renolit/

I got this back together last week, and I ran her hard for several hours yesterday, so the issue was an internal failure on the exhaust switch. I wish I had seen this before, as I added a small bead of High Temp RTV to both faces. Good news, its all sealed up tight, no detectable leaks.

However, I have a laundry list of things to fix on the genny slated for this winter, and as Tom suggested, refinishing the manifold face is on that list, So I should be able to do it to spec then.
 
I got this back together last week, and I ran her hard for several hours yesterday, so the issue was an internal failure on the exhaust switch. I wish I had seen this before, as I added a small bead of High Temp RTV to both faces. Good news, its all sealed up tight, no detectable leaks.

However, I have a laundry list of things to fix on the genny slated for this winter, and as Tom suggested, refinishing the manifold face is on that list, So I should be able to do it to spec then.

Yeah sorry I missed this earlier this month, Just reface everything and you should be good. Silkolene works wonders for sealing the v clamp exhaust seals. Thats what it is made for. Glad you got it back together and working, makes for better boating.
 
Don't go and buy a tube of that incredibly expensive exhaust jointing compound. I've got an almost full tube of the Fuchs 762 Jointing Compound that you can use. I needed it for the V-band flanges on my turbo exhausts. So, if any of those joints are high temp you'll need it.
 
Don't go and buy a tube of that incredibly expensive exhaust jointing compound. I've got an almost full tube of the Fuchs 762 Jointing Compound that you can use. I needed it for the V-band flanges on my turbo exhausts. So, if any of those joints are high temp you'll need it.
Lol! The high temp Permatex was $10!
 

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