What air compressor for winterizing

Creekwood

Well-Known Member
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Apr 26, 2009
5,806
Oakville and Georgian Bay, Ontario
Boat Info
'97 330 Sundancer, Raymarine C80 suite with radar, Mercury 310 Hypalon w/8hp Yammie 2stk
Engines
2X 454 carbs w/ vDrives
I am considering buying an air compressor for blowing out water lines rather than running antifreeze through everything. For those of you that do that, what is the size of compressor that is big enough to do the job?
 
Not sure if there is a minimum but I do know that pancake compressor won't do it... tried it years ago...
 
Fwiw I have a special set-up where I attached a flexible hose to a fitting that screws into the city water inlet and to a regulator to reduce the pressure down to about 30-35 psi. This was important to me so I did not over pressurize the lines - especially somewhere where I could not see them. I could have turned the regulator on the compressor down but this was an added protection for me. I have been able to use a portable compressor on occasion.
 
I do the same, But still run anti freeze through just for safety, Cuts your anti freeze usage down by 1/2. Can't imagine hunting a water leak in some of the places the lines are run.

I may rethink and just use the pink.
 
I have used the exhaust port of a wet/dry vac to blow out the lines and block and exhaust and fresh water system.....it is a good source of 'high volume-low pressure' air.....just cup your hand around the connection of the vacuum hose and the water line you are blowing out to form a decent seal....

cliff
 
I don't winterize the boat, but I do have a pool that needs winterization. I bought Pink antifreeze for $2.50 /gal at Tractor Supply (TSC) this week......cutting the price of the antifreeze might be another approach you can consider.

From TSC's web site. "There are no rust or corrosion inhibitors in this product. It is strictly for portable water systems."

So I would use another product for engines.
 
For years I have used a Harbor Freight pancake compressor and it has worked fine. I hook it to the city water connection then, one at a time, go around and open each faucet. I wait until it's just mist coming out then go to the next one. I do that twice and have never had any problems. Be sure you do the hot and cold sides of each faucet.

PS. Don't forget the anchor washdown faucet nor the one at the transom shower and if you have a lazarette, don't forget that one.

I drain the sea strainer in the lazarette because I don't heat that area.
 
I use a high volume ,low pressure fan. Originally purchased to blow out the feed and return lines on my pool. Too much pressure wil do bad things.
 
any AC/120 compressor will work if you know what you are doing... I have used a Harbor Freight 6 gallon, which I lost in Sandy... Now I use a twin tank compressor. I first drain the HW heater. I have a hose fitting which I attach on the shore connection for water and I cycle it a couple of times opening each water spigot (hot and cold). After that I thoroughly blown out, I use a trigger attachment on my compressor hose and blow both connecting hoses on each side of the water pump (don't blow through the water pump, but do blow through your AC pump). I also have a hose attachment on my AC and I blow out the AC... The AC is very easy to do...
 
I use Porter Cable pancake compressor with no issue. Well other than the regulator knob doesn't lock and the pressure changes from vibration. Need to add an inline regulator this year.
 
Guess I'm not understanding why some blow out the lines until there's nothing coming out, and still add red pop? Has anyone ever blown out the lines and not added any red pop and still had a freeze issue?
 
For years I have used a Harbor Freight pancake compressor and it has worked fine. I hook it to the city water connection then, one at a time, go around and open each faucet. I wait until it's just mist coming out then go to the next one. I do that twice and have never had any problems. Be sure you do the hot and cold sides of each faucet.

PS. Don't forget the anchor washdown faucet nor the one at the transom shower and if you have a lazarette, don't forget that one.

I drain the sea strainer in the lazarette because I don't heat that area.

+1!

Bennett
 
Been using air only for 30 years, never a problem. Keep it to 35-40 psi and make sure water heater is drained. As mentioned, don't forget anchor locker, windshield wipers and transom shower. Also ice maker if applicable.

+1. Air doesn't expand in freezing weather and any remaining bits of water then has somewhere to expand to.
 
any AC/120 compressor will work if you know what you are doing... I have used a Harbor Freight 6 gallon, which I lost in Sandy... Now I use a twin tank compressor. I first drain the HW heater. I have a hose fitting which I attach on the shore connection for water and I cycle it a couple of times opening each water spigot (hot and cold). After that I thoroughly blown out, I use a trigger attachment on my compressor hose and blow both connecting hoses on each side of the water pump (don't blow through the water pump, but do blow through your AC pump). I also have a hose attachment on my AC and I blow out the AC... The AC is very easy to do...


This will be my first year doing this. So, you blow from the pump to the tank to evacuate that line and also from the pump through the accumulator to the manifold?

Do the same for the toilet supply lines?

I was going to put a few gallons in the tank and run to the toilets via the pump, essentially pinking the tank, pump and toilets along with the holding tank by flushing some pink. Drain the WH and then blow the other lines via the city water connection. But, if by blowing those two lines out I save from pinking my drinking system, I'd be all for that.
 
Monkey, I turn on the pump and run all the water out of the tank prior to running the air compressor. Then, when the compressor is hooked up to the city water in let connection (via a series of connector pieces I have assembled) I run the compressed air through each one of the lines (cold water and hot water) until all I get out of each faucet is a bit of mist.

I also empty all of the glass "jugs" on each of the sea strainers to make sure that if there's a power failure that none of them crack and break. I also shut off each of the sea strainers and thru hulls to make sure no water comes in through them.

When I head down to the boat to winterize it I plan on spending a couple of hours down there and make certain I do it right. It's time well spend, relaxing time, and it makes sure if there is a power outage that nothing will freeze.

I do use 5 of those 1500/750 watt heaters in the cabin with each of them set on the 750 watt setting and the thermostat set at a mid-range setting, and also have a 1500 watt BoatSafe heater in the bilge.

If the weather gets cold enough that the water in the bay freezes (it happens about every 10 years) I have a Kasco deicer pump that can be lowered into the water to keep my slip (and the adjoining slips) ice free.
 

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