Windlass Main Switch light always on.

mj_duell

New Member
Aug 30, 2012
175
Connecticut
Boat Info
2000 330 Express Cruiser
Engines
Twin (380hp) 7.4 Horizon w/ Straight Drives
Hi,
I just changed out my dash panels and switches on my 2000 330EC. All of the switches have been tested and work correctly except for the Windlass Main (VLD1-3 SR part# 1733928). I have double checked the wiring against my original panel and the wiring diagram. The switch acts as it should and the windlass works accordingly, however, the light is always on, even in the middle resting position. It stays on when pressing the switch upward or downward as well. I cannot figure out why this is the case. The light should only illuminate if the switch is pressed up or down I believe. The light on the old panel was burned out so I cannot compare. Here is the wire configuration I am running if anyone can relate (by position):

(8) (red/violet) --- | --- (7) (black - ground)
(3) (white/blue) --- | --- (6) (white/blue)
(2) (red) --- | --- (5) (black - ground)
(1) (white/blue) --- | --- (4) (white/blue)

The (red/violet) should always be hot correct? removing this always turns the light off, but then I lose functionality.

Thanks,

Mike
 
I have two switches. One is for up and down. The other powers the relay on and off. Is yours the same?
 
I have two switches. One is for up and down. The other powers the relay on and off. Is yours the same?

Yes, one switch is the main and one the control, both are (ON) (OFF) (ON) momentary. For the 330EC it is (RED/Violet) on 8 in the 330EC wiring diagram. You have purple?

srwire.jpg
 
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Honestly don't know what I have. I don't see a red / violet in the ABYC standards.

Are your numbers relating from the harness position, thru the relay and back?
 
Honestly don't know what I have. I don't see a red / violet in the ABYC standards.

Are your numbers relating from the harness position, thru the relay and back?

Those numbers are marked on the back of the switch. I also pulled a picture of the old switch and it has the same wires attached. I never had a working indicator light so for all I know the wiring was already incorrect.

--Mike
 
check the fuse in the relay for the windless.... when I burned mine out it stayed on the whole time.
 
check the fuse in the relay for the windless.... when I burned mine out it stayed on the whole time.

Hmmm....now that is something I would have never thought of. Did the windlass still function? Where is the fuse, in the anchor locker at the bow?

Thanks,

Mike
 
Those numbers are marked on the back of the switch. I also pulled a picture of the old switch and it has the same wires attached. I never had a working indicator light so for all I know the wiring was already incorrect.

--Mike

I'd go with the indicator theory!
 
Hmmm....now that is something I would have never thought of. Did the windlass still function? Where is the fuse, in the anchor locker at the bow?

Thanks,

Mike
2015-03-22 14.37.56-er.jpg
On my boat it's in the ER on the fire wall above the batteries to the left of charger...and yes it still worked.
 
Hi,
I just changed out my dash panels and switches on my 2000 330EC. All of the switches have been tested and work correctly except for the Windlass Main (VLD1-3 SR part# 1733928). I have double checked the wiring against my original panel and the wiring diagram. The switch acts as it should and the windlass works accordingly, however, the light is always on, even in the middle resting position. It stays on when pressing the switch upward or downward as well. I cannot figure out why this is the case. The light should only illuminate if the switch is pressed up or down I believe. The light on the old panel was burned out so I cannot compare. Here is the wire configuration I am running if anyone can relate (by position):

(8) (red/violet) --- | --- (7) (black - ground)
(3) (white/blue) --- | --- (6) (white/blue)
(2) (red) --- | --- (5) (black - ground)
(1) (white/blue) --- | --- (4) (white/blue)

The (red/violet) should always be hot correct? removing this always turns the light off, but then I lose functionality.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,

I am am having a similar problem, but the difference is that my latching solenoid is NOT working even though the indicator light is on. In answer to your questions, as I really dug into it as I just replaced my windlass, the red wire at #2 is your hot. The red/violet should only be hot when your latching solenoid is passing power to your windlass. That is then jumped to the center of the (On)-Off-(On) control switch. This then powers the control box which then directs power to the windlass. Your white/blue wires engage and disengage the latching solenoid.

Have you checked to see whether you can turn your latching solenoid off? It may be stuck on. I will be working on mine this weekend to see what is going on. If I can't get it working, Blue Sea makes a nice one.

Bryan
 
Mike,

Have you checked to see whether you can turn your latching solenoid off? It may be stuck on. I will be working on mine this weekend to see what is going on. If I can't get it working, Blue Sea makes a nice one.

Bryan

Ding, Ding, Ding We have a winner. I checked the solenoid last night and I did not hear the clicking when the button actuated. I took off the terminals and cleaned them and then gave it a few short taps with a hammer. Went back to the switch and tried again and everything is working properly and the light is doing what it is supposed to. I will need to replace the solenoid I guess or at least carry one as a spare. Thanks for pointing me in that direction. I was sure I messed up the wiring this whole time.

--Mike
 
Great news. Where is the solenoid located? It's only a matter of time before mine goes. It is a boat after all!
 
It was in the ER on the port side.

--Mike
 
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