Winterizing 5.0 MPI questions

F

FuzzDaddy

Member
Jul 8, 2020
155
Boat Info
2002 Sea Ray 230 Signature
Engines
5.7 Mercruiser
Hello everyone,

This boat is new to me. I just got it a month ago and now it's time to winterize so I have a few questions. It's a 2009 240 Sundeck with the 5.0L MPI. I assuming I can winterize it the same way I did on my previous 5.7L.

1) I usually run the engine on the muffs for about 10 minutes.
2) I have 5 blue drain plugs. I pull all of them and poke a small screwdriver in the hole to make sure they are clean and water runs out freely.
3) Put all 5 plugs back in
4) Pull the thermostat hose and pour antifreeze directly in the hose until it starts to come out the thermostat housing. Reinstall the hose. Then I pull the 2 smaller hoses to fill each manifold and make sure antifreeze drains out the transom area.
5) Does this sound correct and should I leave the antifreeze in or remove all the blue plugs for the winter?
6) Since my engine is the MPI do I fog the engine?

I was wondering if this method was better or should I pump the antifreeze in through the outdrive? I don't have the bucket system so I was thinking pouring it directly in would be better. Here is a pic of my engine for reference. I was trying to google videos but I couldn't find the same engine.
Thank you for your time.
Corey
 

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Drain and fill method is fine. No fogging. Mix gas, 2 stroke and stabilizer in a portable tank and run that through. Or, just add 2 stroke to the fuel filter and run on that.
 
I forgot to mention I live in NJ. I'm actually changing my fuel filter tomorrow. How much 2 stroke should I pour in? Also is this necessary or can I just spray fogging inside each cylinder?
 
The oil, gas and stabilizer mix is good for the fuel injectors too.

As far as draining the water, I highly recommend that you find the drains for each side of the engine block. They are most likely small diameter hoses that attach to the drain manifold that runs beneath your crankshaft pulley. Cut the clamps and remove the hoses so you can blow air or water in there to clear out any blockage and be absolutely sure that the block is drained before pouring in the antifreeze.
 
Can just spray the cylinder if you pull plugs.
 
At this point it seems easier and fool proof to just run the antifreeze through the outdrive, that way I don't have to worry about having water somewhere in the block or a hose? Maybe if I pump it in through the outdrive the antifreeze will travel completely through the entire engine and all the hoses.....Also should I fill the fuel tank for the winter? Right now it's almost empty.
 
FuzzDaddy said:
At this point it seems easier and fool proof to just run the antifreeze through the outdrive, that way I don't have to worry about having water somewhere in the block or a hose? Maybe if I pump it in through the outdrive the antifreeze will travel completely through the entire engine and all the hoses.....Also should I fill the fuel tank for the winter? Right now it's almost empty.
Click to expand...
Fuel - my boat has a closed fuel system like a car, so I just stabilize and store with whatever is in there. Most recommend filling it so there is no vapor space for condensation to form, but that also leaves the possibility for a lot of bad fuel to dispose of if it gets water contaminated.
 
Non ethanol? Fill it for the winter.

Ethanol (E10)? Leave as little as possible in the tank.

Either way be sure to use some stabilizer.
 
FuzzDaddy said:
At this point it seems easier and fool proof to just run the antifreeze through the outdrive, that way I don't have to worry about having water somewhere in the block or a hose? Maybe if I pump it in through the outdrive the antifreeze will travel completely through the entire engine and all the hoses.....Also should I fill the fuel tank for the winter? Right now it's almost empty.
Click to expand...
No, in most cases, that's actually the fool's way, not fool proof. The way you were originally going to do it is ideal. The only way the "pump through" method becomes fool proof is if you fully drain, then remove the t-stat, then pump through. It's more of a hassle to do it that way, too.

Yes, put your plugs back in - if you're using the proper, propylene glycol AF it has corrosion inhibitors in it to help keep the interior metals from rusting.

Since you have a Bravo III, you should also loosen the output hose (unless you have blue plugs there... which would give you 7 all together) to drain that area. Then flip the kill switch and turn the engine over for a few seconds to evacuate any remaining water. In lieu of that, you could remove the input hose at the t-stat, and then pump AF through till you get solid pink coming out. Pump a little more to be sure.

Fogging - yes, as noted, you could remove your spark plugs to spray fogging oil in there. But, you could also: Put 2oz of 2-stroke oil and an ounce of stabilizer in your fuel filter. Run the engine between 1,200 and 1,300 RPM for exactly 5 minutes and shut 'er down. Done.
 
Excellent information. Thank you all very much for your time!!
 
FuzzDaddy said:
Excellent information. Thank you all very much for your time!!
Click to expand...
Good info from Lazy Daze above.
One additional thing to add….when running on the muffs, 1300 rpm is the max. Any faster and you may run away from your water supply, damaging the impeller.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Fogging - yes, as noted, you could remove your spark plugs to spray fogging oil in there. But, you could also: Put 2oz of 2-stroke oil and an ounce of stabilizer in your fuel filter. Run the engine between 1,200 and 1,300 RPM for exactly 5 minutes and shut 'er down. Done.
Click to expand...

Hi Dennis, to confirm -- you're talking about adding to the fuel/water separator (oil-filter-lookalike) ? Also, if you use this method and you replace this filter (or filters) as part of winterization, would you run this mix through the old filter and change it afterwards?
 
I have a 2002 Sea Ray 240 with a Merc 5.0 Sterndrive MPI. I have read the manual that advises the use of a portable fuel tank and mix 5 gals. fuel, 2 qts 2-cycle oil a Stabil. Then you hook up the tank to your engine and run the mixture through. Is there an inexpensive fuel line you can purchase that allows for easy hookup to the portable fuel tank? Do I need to ensure I have a fuel line that includes a priming bulb or will the fuel automatically pump from the portable tank and allow me to complete this alternate "fogging" procedure since my engine does not have a carb?
 
Ward, the fuel "should" self prime as it does with your built-in tank - all you're doing is using a different tank. Your fuel line is barb'd on - no "connector". But you could certainly change that for future use. Any fuel-rated hose is fine.

Or, do as I noted above.
 
Dennis, thanks for the information. It sounds like the fuel filter method may be the easiest. Will it do as thorough a job of "fogging" the engine as using the portable fuel tank with 5 gals. fuel, 2 qts. 2 cycle oil and 5 ozs. Stabil, as detailed in the Mercruiser manual?
 
Yes. It's exactly the same thing going into the engine. You just only have that finite time to do it - as opposed to the portable tank where let it run as long as you want.
 
Got it. I already have a portable fuel tank from a friend and I think I will use the manual suggested method. My boat doesn't have a fuel shut off valve. Now that I have disconnected the boat's fuel line at the fuel filter, do I need to disconnect anything from my boat's fuel tank or attempt to plug the fuel line prior to connecting the portable tank and starting my engine? I'm a little worried about gas fumes or potential leakage of gas from my main fuel tank, with the line disconnected.
 
You do have a fuel shut-off - it's electric - you should see it if you follow the line from the tank. But, just plug the hose after you remove it from the filter head and tape/clamp it up high.
 
It's really easy just add a few ounces to the fuel filter fill the rest with fuel screw it on and fire it up for a few minutes kill it you'll be fine
 
Thank you again. Yesterday I hooked up my portable fuel tank with the 2 cycle oil, Stabil and gas and the engine on this mixture for about 10 minutes. I had a total of almost 6 gals. per the Mercruiser manual. Near the end of the 10 or so minutes the engine was producing some white smoke, as expected. I then ran for a few more minutes and ran about 4-5 gals. of AF through the engine. This process left me with almost 5 gallons of the fuel mixture left in my portable tank. I'm not sure why the manual recommends using 6 gallons of the mixture? I would need to run the engine for a long time to use most of the mixture. Is it acceptable to use this fuel mixture next spring when I launch my boat for the season?
 
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