Winterizing 5.0 MPI

[Pernalski]

So I’ve watched the YouTube and everyone I watch talks about the “5 blue plugs”. I’ve reached around, flashlight and iPhone front facing camera from every angle I could think of and I can only find the upper and lower plugs at the front of the motor. I have a large blue handle drain valve that hasn’t been in the videos I’ve watched—is this a single drain point? Picture attached. 2003 Sundeck 220

 

[Espos4]

So I’ve watched the YouTube and everyone I watch talks about the “5 blue plugs”. I’ve reached around, flashlight and iPhone front facing camera from every angle I could think of and I can only find the upper and lower plugs at the front of the motor. I have a large blue handle drain valve that hasn’t been in the videos I’ve watched—is this a single drain point? Picture attached. 2003 Sundeck 220

Looks like you have an alpha outdrive. The water pump on Bravo equipped motors has 2 drain plugs.
Alphas don’t have these 2 plugs.

The last plug you can’t find would be on the cool fuel 3 module. I don’t see one of those either in your photo. Even if you have Cool fuel 3. The older versions didn’t come with a drain plug.

 

[Pernalski]

Looks like you have an alpha outdrive. The water pump on Bravo equipped motors has 2 drain plugs.
Alphas don’t have these 2 plugs.

The last plug you can’t find would be on the cool fuel 3 module. I don’t see one of those either in your photo. Even if you have Cool fuel 3. The older versions didn’t come with a drain plug.

Thank you for the quick response!
This was (obviously) my first time winterizing the boat, here was my method:
1) added fuel stabilizer, installed muffs with water through the Camco self winterizing set up.
2) ran engine with the water on for about 20mins til it was up to temp.
3) turned off water and turned on anti-freeze.
4) once I saw antifreeze coming out the exhaust I dumped 4oz of Marvel Mystery Oil and fogged the motor. Pulled the (2) blue plugs and opened the blue handle valve.
5) changed engine oil, oil filter, and fuel water separator filter.
6) drained sterndrive gear lube, removed sterndrive to store in my garage.
7) removed batteries, opened damp rid, and installed storage cover.

I think I covered all the bases and may have gone overboard by removing the sterndrive but that was what the marina did during previous winterization.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Well, looks like you're in for a re-do! Don't believe everything you see on Youtube. The way you did it, you have a good chance of having your block freeze and crack. You MUST drain completely and DOUBLE CHECK where the water distribution module drain hoses mate to the engine and the manifolds as those hoses can clog up and prevent full draining. Also drain whichever cool fuel module you have. Only then can you run the pinkstuff through. Ideally, though, remove the t-stat. Once you have pink stuff everywhere... LEAVE it in there. You're defeating part of the purpose of the pink stuff as the correct stuff helps to prevent corrosion.

Rather than using that silly jug of pink stuff, though, just pour the AF into the system through the t-stat hoses.

You used propylene glycol, right?

Where did you put the Mystery oil?

I'm all for DIY, but sometimes it's just best to pay someone that is trained in this - you don't want save a couple bucks now only to pay many, many times more in the spring.

FYI, unless you're worried about theft, there's no reason to remove the drive. Or, install a drive lock.

 

[Pernalski]

Well, looks like you're in for a re-do! Don't believe everything you see on Youtube. The way you did it, you have a good chance of having your block freeze and crack. You MUST drain completely and DOUBLE CHECK where the water distribution module drain hoses mate to the engine and the manifolds as those hoses can clog up and prevent full draining. Also drain whichever cool fuel module you have. Only then can you run the pinkstuff through. Ideally, though, remove the t-stat. Once you have pink stuff everywhere... LEAVE it in there. You're defeating part of the purpose of the pink stuff as the correct stuff helps to prevent corrosion.

Rather than using that silly jug of pink stuff, though, just pour the AF into the system through the t-stat hoses.

You used propylene glycol, right?

Where did you put the Mystery oil?

I'm all for DIY, but sometimes it's just best to pay someone that is trained in this - you don't want save a couple bucks now only to pay many, many times more in the spring.

FYI, unless you're worried about theft, there's no reason to remove the drive. Or, install a drive lock.

Thats not good news for sure.
I used West Marine -50 pink stuff, MMO went in under the flame arrestor.
I’m happy to pay for a service if I feel it’s a reasonable price. My marina in Long Island, NY charges $1600+ for the winterization and from what others on this forum have told me I’m getting ripped.
Im fairly mechanically inclined but I certainly don’t want to risk freeze damage. I’m not sure I would know everywhere to look for water.
We’re not suppose to use outside mechanics but it sounds like I better chance it to do it the right way.

 

[Lazy Daze]

$1,600? That has to include other things, no? I can't imagine that is just for a simple winterization and fluid change. It should be 1/5 to 1/4 of that. IF they are charging that for this basic service, I would think the BBB would be interested in that. Obviously, prices will change from one locale to another, but for a basic winterization and fluid change, that is absolutely absurd.

West Marine stuff... I don't care about the brand - you have to look at the ingredients. There are two formulations - only one can be used in the engine - the other is meant for fresh water systems.

MMO in the throttle body... that's bad, as well. You can foul sensors. An MPI engine should only be "fogged" through the fuel water separator.

Take a look at some previous threads (or search) on this topic - there are many threads about this and I don't feel like wearing my finger tips down again...

 

[Pernalski]

Just the winterization and a small fee for storing the outdrive in a heated space. I will scan in last year’s invoice when I have a chance.
As I said, I thought I did my homework both in forums and watching a couple dozen videos by different guys. I was searching for “winterizing 5.0mpi”, what should I be adding to my search criteria to narrow the results?

 

[Espos4]

Just the winterization and a small fee for storing the outdrive in a heated space. I will scan in last year’s invoice when I have a chance.
As I said, I thought I did my homework both in forums and watching a couple dozen videos by different guys. I was searching for “winterizing 5.0mpi”, what should I be adding to my search criteria to narrow the results?

The big concern is that the small hoses for the engine block drains can get clogged.
When you open the valve to drain your raw water, there may be a couple of gallons of water left in the block due to the drain hoses being blocked.
When you add the antifreeze, It can become diluted and you’re freeze protection will be nowhere near -50.

I’m on the south shore in The Great South Bay like you.

My drains are clogged every year. I use an adapter that I made from a washing machine hose end and an air hose quick connect to flush it out with the garden hose.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Just the winterization and a small fee for storing the outdrive in a heated space. I will scan in last year’s invoice when I have a chance.
As I said, I thought I did my homework both in forums and watching a couple dozen videos by different guys. I was searching for “winterizing 5.0mpi”, what should I be adding to my search criteria to narrow the results?

That's all they're doing? Yeah, that's rediculous. I have to laugh (not at you, at their "recommendation") at the idea of having to store the outdrive in a heated space. Do we REALLY think an outdrive cares about the temperature?

If you add my name as a qualifier in the search, I'm sure you'll get better threads to look at. There are others that have contributed as well - it's not like I'm the only one, though.

In a nutshell, though...

--Fog properly (look at very recent thread - I just responded in that one)
--Drain everything, including the little hoses (I believe in your model year there are quick disconnects on the block/mani side)
--Backfill with the proper AF through the t-stat hoses

Get that MMO out of the system by running the engine for a while.

 

[Pernalski]

As promised, here is last years invoice:

 

[snoeproe]

Dated thread but just for reference, that blue handled valve is indeed a single point water/coolant drain for your system.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dated thread but just for reference, that blue handled valve is indeed a single point water/coolant drain for your system.

Dated, yes. But read through the thread about the reason that handle should not be the only method used to drain.

 

[Soulshine]

For the sake of sanity, this forum should be locked until Labor Day.