Wiring extra Speakers to a switch?

Feb 27, 2014
55
Forked River, NJ
Boat Info
2006 Sundancer 280, Ipad Navi, Full JL Sound System
Engines
Dual 4.3L Mercruisers
For next season, I would like to add four more speakers to my sound setup.

Currently I am running a 6 channel amp.

4 Speakers
1 Subwoofer

I have one channel remaining on my amp.

I want to Add two more speakers to my arch and two speakers in the back of the boat for the outside while we swim around.

What I do not want happening is for the rear speakers to be on while under way. And getting a second amp.

I want to know if its possible to run speakers on a switch. I know if I were to get a second amp I can run the remote wire on a separate switch but would really prefer not to do that.

Thanks in advance!
 
You can certainly run speakers through a switch. It sound like you are you wanting to switch between the arch and rear. If so, you would need a 4 pole, double throw, non-shorting switch.
 
You can certainly run speakers through a switch. It sound like you are you wanting to switch between the arch and rear. If so, you would need a 4 pole, double throw, non-shorting switch.

Thank you!

That is exactly what I am wanting to do.

4 pole, double throw, non-shorting switch! Got it! Any suggestions where I can find a diagram on how to wire this out properly?
 
If you look at the bottom of these switches, you will see 4 rows of 3 terminals. The center terminal is usually the common. So there is where the output of the amp would go... so like L+, L-, R+, and R- Then the outside rows are where the speakers would go using the same order.

Something like this guy:
https://www.alliedelec.com/carling-technologies-il251-73/70131559/
 
Our boat had the two stereo setup, one at helm one down below in salon. When they were both stolen I opted for a single stereo @ the helm and a power amp plus volume control @ the old location in the salon. I wish we would have changed to this setup years ago... We are loving it !!!
 
If you look at the bottom of these switches, you will see 4 rows of 3 terminals. The center terminal is usually the common. So there is where the output of the amp would go... so like L+, L-, R+, and R- Then the outside rows are where the speakers would go using the same order.

Something like this guy:
https://www.alliedelec.com/carling-technologies-il251-73/70131559/
That makes complete sense. I don't know why I thought it would be more difficult.
Thank you very much for the link and diagram.
This is going to work out great for next year!
 
"I have one channel remaining on my amp."

This a minor issue with an overly complicated solution. If you have a woofer on chnl 5 and tuned this chnl for a woofer, then chnl 6, your open chnl is tuned for a woofer just the same. This wont work for a full range speaker(s).

You need 2 full ranges that are not driving a woofer on the paired chnl.
 
If you look at the bottom of these switches, you will see 4 rows of 3 terminals. The center terminal is usually the common. So there is where the output of the amp would go... so like L+, L-, R+, and R- Then the outside rows are where the speakers would go using the same order.

Something like this guy:
https://www.alliedelec.com/carling-technologies-il251-73/70131559/


I have been searching for a little while now and I cant seem to find a marine switch like this? Any suggestions?
 
I have been searching for a little while now and I cant seem to find a marine switch like this? Any suggestions?
Not likely to find a "marine" version. You can get boots to seal the toggle. Where do you intend to mount it?
 
The switch is a good option. I would advise mounting it somewhere where you can't hit it by accident while music is playing, particularly at higher volumes. It's not a good idea to switch speakers while you have music playing. The output stage of the amplifier circuit is designed to provide a signal across a load (impedance), which is usually 4 or 8 ohms. When you throw the switch, it may have a brief moment where there is no impedance on the output of the amp. The impedance - no impedance - impedance cycle might cause damage to the amp depending on how robust the design of it is.
 
No impedance or in other words, OL on a meter, is the same as no speaker connected. I would worry more about the switch being a make before break, thus bringing the other speaker into parallel before they are disconnected. This could allow the amp to see a load that lower then its designed to operate. 0 ohm is the opposite end of the scale from OL.

Still all trivial, as there is still the conflict of driving full range speakers on the mating chnl of one driving a woofer. Need to solve this conflict before an A/B switch will ever work for you.
 
Not likely to find a "marine" version. You can get boots to seal the toggle. Where do you intend to mount it?
I intend to mount it somewhere on the helm to be easily accessible. I was asking about a "marine" switch because I did not want to toggle switch

The switch is a good option. I would advise mounting it somewhere where you can't hit it by accident while music is playing, particularly at higher volumes. It's not a good idea to switch speakers while you have music playing. The output stage of the amplifier circuit is designed to provide a signal across a load (impedance), which is usually 4 or 8 ohms. When you throw the switch, it may have a brief moment where there is no impedance on the output of the amp. The impedance - no impedance - impedance cycle might cause damage to the amp depending on how robust the design of it is.
Yes I would mount it somewhere where it will not be hit on accident. I understand that basically you are saying not to have sound going through the speakers while switching them.

No impedance or in other words, OL on a meter, is the same as no speaker connected. I would worry more about the switch being a make before break, thus bringing the other speaker into parallel before they are disconnected. This could allow the amp to see a load that lower then its designed to operate. 0 ohm is the opposite end of the scale from OL.

Still all trivial, as there is still the conflict of driving full range speakers on the mating chnl of one driving a woofer. Need to solve this conflict before an A/B switch will ever work for you.

I did some thinking from your previous post and have decided to get another single channel amp for the woofer! If I were to get another two channel amp for the extra two sets of speakers, and run the remote wire to a switch, I still have the problem of running my woofer to my existing 6 channel amp?
Or am I ok leaving it on one channel?
 
You have two basic routes to take. Get an amp for the woofer or leave the woofer as is and get a 2 chnl stereo amp for the new speakers.

IMO, your money will go further with the purchase of a mono amp, freeing up the chnls of the full range 6 chnl for the new speakers.

With a woofer wired to only one chnl of a pair of chnls, as opposed to the logical bridged configuration, I cant imagine its getting very much wattage. Moving the woofer to its own mono amp could make a significant improvement in the woofer's performance.

So, next step, what is woofer model, size and coil ohm's configuration? What is the brand/model of the 6 chnl? Knowing the base line will help predict the improvement. Knowing the woofer specs allows you to choose the best woofer for the dollar.
 
You have two basic routes to take. Get an amp for the woofer or leave the woofer as is and get a 2 chnl stereo amp for the new speakers.

IMO, your money will go further with the purchase of a mono amp, freeing up the chnls of the full range 6 chnl for the new speakers.

With a woofer wired to only one chnl of a pair of chnls, as opposed to the logical bridged configuration, I cant imagine its getting very much wattage. Moving the woofer to its own mono amp could make a significant improvement in the woofer's performance.

So, next step, what is woofer model, size and coil ohm's configuration? What is the brand/model of the 6 chnl? Knowing the base line will help predict the improvement. Knowing the woofer specs allows you to choose the best woofer for the dollar.

Thank you for the input.

Amp that I am currently running:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WET-SOUNDS-...ER-AMP-HTX6-/202024656089?hash=item2f099b9cd9

Woofer I am currently running:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-AUDIO-MX...BWOOFER-SUB-/172823477449?hash=item283d14fcc9
 
Please consider a volume control w/off vs a toggle for those swim deck speakers so you don't blow other boaters out of the water. Music carries.

Ever consider a water resistant Bluetooth speaker you could just hang on the back when swimming?
 
You've got the best marine products out there. I hope you purchased through a reputable and authorized dealer for those brands. I would suggest you reach out to them about rewiring the woofer and re-tuning the amp. You should have gotten that assistance in the beginning, and had that woofer wired bridged on two chnls.

If I was going to suggest a mono amp for that woofer, in the context of your setup, it would be the Kicker KX400.1. This am offers solid power for that woofer and the tuning flexibility that that IB woofer needs.
 
Please consider a volume control w/off vs a toggle for those swim deck speakers so you don't blow other boaters out of the water. Music carries.

Ever consider a water resistant Bluetooth speaker you could just hang on the back when swimming?

That's a good point, could you link me to an example of the volume control switch?

As for the bluetooth speaker, I like built in stationary parts, not something I have to constantly move and charge. I even mounted my grill in a way that I would not have to take it off and on every time.

Also, even more important, I love loud music. Bluetooth speaker wont be able to please my boat crew and I, haha!
 
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You've got the best marine products out there. I hope you purchased through a reputable and authorized dealer for those brands. I would suggest you reach out to them about rewiring the woofer and re-tuning the amp. You should have gotten that assistance in the beginning, and had that woofer wired bridged on two chnls.

If I was going to suggest a mono amp for that woofer, in the context of your setup, it would be the Kicker KX400.1. This am offers solid power for that woofer and the tuning flexibility that that IB woofer needs.

Thank you!
So go for a mono amp setup for the woofer? and then use the switch to kill the outside speakers?
 
Thats what I would. Free up the 6 chnl for just full range speaker. You definitely want the transom mounted speakers on their own chnl for the control you are wanting. However, there is a better way then a switch interrupting the speaker leads. I like to use volume control knob. Mount it on the transom and control their volume right there. You can also a single knob on the helm to control cabin volume or a dual knob and control the woofer volume independent of the cabin speaker volume.
 
41U%2B63823EL._SY90_.jpg


OSD Audio SVC100 Decora Style 100-Watt In-Wall Impedance Matching Volume Control White, Ivory, Almond
Sold by: OutdoorSpeakerDepot*com
$19.87
I did not replace the salon stereo when it was stolen. I installed a power amp and this volume control, the signal comes down from the helm stereo.
 

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