Would you trust a Harbor Freight ball or drawbar for a reciever type hitch?

MonacoMike

Well-Known Member
Sep 15, 2009
14,721
Indiana lakes and Lake Michigan
Boat Info
2000 Cruisers 3870
8.2 Mercs
Engines
85 Sea Ray Monaco 197
260hp Alpha 1
I prefer a Draw Tight, Reese, or one from a reputable store myself. Some of my friends think I m just being picky and they save money at HF.

What do you think?

MM
 
If you're talking just the ball or stinger I'd be OK with it for a smaller boat.

For a complete hitch I wouldn't. There's too much riding on the quality of the hitch (sorry, bad pun there!) to take a chance. There are some things where the peace of mind that comes from buying known quality is worth the extra money it costs.

Have you tried a U-Haul center or WalMart for a stinger and ball?
 
Last edited:
Mike, I do not know the term "stinger". What I call a drawbar is the part that goes in the receiver on the truck and the pin goes through it and the ball is put on it. Is that a "stinger"?

I know where the items are for sale, but rather wanted opinions on HF options and for that matter the low-cost items at the likes of Wally-World versus the brands and types available in more professional towing shops.

MM
 
If its over 5k#'s I use Reese or Curtis. Forged is the only way to go.
 
I've used Reese products for years towing Bobcats, backhoes, and also some very heavy boats and never had any trouble with the receiver or draw bar on any hitch from Reese. Highly recommend. Would not use sub par units for heavy towing.
 
On another forum there are a few example of drawbars that have failed at the welds. I prefer to use forged bars with the ball bolted through.
 
I do buy some things from HF, but my general rule is that if my body will be underneath something or if it's a big safety factor (like a draw bar), then I stick with "known" brands. Of course, this doesn't 100% rule out failures, but I at least have more confidence in it and if it did fail, I wouldn't be kicking myself over saving a few dollars (and in the case of a draw bar, that's really all it is - a couple of bucks). IF the welds are good on the HF bar, then sure, it would be fine. But I really don't want to take the time to properly inspect the welds (which, if I was being anal about it, would include removing the paint and looking for heat penetration) -- all just to save a few bucks? Not worth my time.
 
Mike, I do not know the term "stinger". What I call a drawbar is the part that goes in the receiver on the truck and the pin goes through it and the ball is put on it. Is that a "stinger"? MM

Stinger must be a west coast thing. If you went into a hitch place out here and asked for a draw bar they'd just look at you funny. If you ask for a stinger they know what you need.
 
A STINGER IS USUALLY REFERENCED TO THE HYDRAULIC WHEEL LIFT ON THE BACK OF A FLATBED TOW TRUCK.Opps sorry about that.I just installed one and it was called a reciever on the computer generated estimate.
 
Mike, no idea. I've lived in the PNW for since 1976 and that's all I've ever heard it referred to...stinger and ball.

Possibly because when it's installed and you bang your shin on it, it stings like he!!
 
So the answer to the original question is NO!

Glad I'm in good company here. My friend decided to get a good quality one, thankfully.

Thanks for the responses!

MM
 

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