ZF 80 IV to Cat 3126 intermittent reverse on start up then fine

nealtrombley

nealtrombley

Active Member
Apr 7, 2016
414
Sw Fl Ft myers
Boat Info
1988 Sea Ray Laguna Sold!
2002 Sea Ray 410 Dancer
Engines
2002 Yamaha 250OX66
twin Cats 350hp
Last two trips when leaving the dock,

we always run the engines up to temp then shove off..

recent trips no reverse on port engine, i move back to neutral then fwd then reverse works fine the whole trip.. No issues

return trip no issues 8 sets of locks, several docking stops as well,

this saturday same thing warmed up engines pulled away no reverse port engine, neutral, fwd then reverse worked, when to pump out docked, moved to slip, left marina came home lots of shifting on home dock, worked great?

any thoughts

fluid level is good

last fluid filter change was aug 2019 approx. Hours on filters & fluid 80 hrs

full engine/ tranny service due next week.. Had oil analysis done in aug all came back fine...
 
Last edited:
nealtrombley said:
Last two trips when leaving the dock,

we always run the engines up to temp then shove off..

recent trips no reverse on port engine, i move back to neutral then fwd then reverse works fine the whole trip.. No issues

return trip no issues 8 sets of locks, several docking stops as well,

this saturday same thing warmed up engines pulled away no reverse port engine, neutral, fwd then reverse worked, when to pump out docked, moved to slip, left marina came home lots of shifting on home dock, worked great?

any thoughts

fluid level is good

last fluid filter change was aug 2019 approx. Hours on filters & fluid 80 hrs

full engine/ tranny service due next week.. Had oil analysis done in aug all came back fine...
Click to expand...

They're the electronic shift version right? (ours are) Maybe the contacts in the shifter need a cleaning?
 
Been through this with mine and fought it for a while before getting it sorted out. From my experience and what I researched, this gets worse with time.

There are three options.

1. You have loose connections on the shift solenoid. This is an AMP connector and you need some special tools to make new connections. I bought some parts and the tools, made new connectors, but still had issues. You can buy the parts at Digikey Here are the part numbers. I think I found the special crimp tool on amazon for about $30.

Here's the tool. Search for this. -->

IWISS Weather Pack Crimp Tool for AWG 24-14 Crimping Delphi APTIV Weather Pack Terminals or Metri-Pack Connectors- Crimp Terminals and Seal In ONE Cycle with Locator & Removal Extraction Tool

upload_2020-11-30_11-30-28.png


2. Replace the solenoids. The part # is 3312-308-183 $385 from SBMAR.com or Transmission Marine, These are "proportional" type valves that engage slowly (about 1-2 seconds to full pressure). They are not cheap.

3. Replace the Control block. This is the unit on the front of the transmission, and is held in place by 6 bolts. While your in there, you will need to replace 3 piston rings and a new gasket. This control block has the new stlye control solenoids that are "instant on" and new style electrical connections that are much more robust.

I replaced the control block on my port transmission about 80 hours ago, and that fixed my issues. I haven't had an issue since.
 
Strecker25 said:
They're the electronic shift version right? (ours are) Maybe the contacts in the shifter need a cleaning?
Click to expand...
Yes sir,,, I was hoping for some guidance if that is the case?
I posted on Marine Diesel as well... wonder if its an east DYI or tech job.. I do all the oil changes/ service etc but transmissions scare me.. LOL
 
nealtrombley said:
Yes sir,,, I was hoping for some guidance if that is the case?
I posted on Marine Diesel as well... wonder if its an east DYI or tech job.. I do all the oil changes/ service etc but transmissions scare me.. LOL
Click to expand...

Its all DIYable. The solenoids are held in with a single cap screw and a yoke. The control block is 6 bolts.
 
nealtrombley said:
can the all these be cleaned and put back or just replace.. ?
Click to expand...

You can pull the solenoids and replace them. The electrical connector has a locking mechanism on it. The cap screw I think is 5mm Hex. Once you remove the cap screw, the yoke will fall off, so feel/grab it, or put down a rag to catch it.

Mine were always clean, and even if you test with 12VDC, they don't move or make much sound.
 
Last edited:
had both port engine solenoids replaced last Feb $1200.. was working great until last week.
Upon starting up no reverse, after I let temps worm up still no reverse, worked it Fwd and reverse a dozen times and it worked fine, no issues for couple of days then yesterday same thing no reverse, back and forth a dozen time and worked fine.. plenty of fluid ????

Thinking about calling a ZF authorized instead of local diesel guy ( he doesn't call back or show up)..

anyone ever use these guys?


PUNTA GORDA LOCATION
Gulf Coast Diesel Service
5506 Independence Ct. Unit B
Punta Gorda, FL 33982
 
Also check your shifting pressure. I have found that the pumps do wear out over time. I am replacing my other pump/control block as a preventative measure this winter as the operating pressure was dropping below about 250 psi. The new pump puts out 350+.

Just received the new one last night. Cheaper than 2 new solenoids. The whole shooting match is $800 delivered with the new style solenoids, new (and in my opinion…better) electrical connections and 3 new piston rings and the gasket.
This is basically the entire control system on these transmissions.

Marinegears.com - (954) 467-1540. Justin helped me on this.

This is about a 1-2 hour DIY job. Getting the old pump off, and the new one installed is about 20 minutes. The rest is swapping/installing the hydraulic fittings and the temp and pressure senders. If you start moving fitting, you'll need some loctite 592 or 545 to seal the threads.


E7C24479-7D36-4DC9-BB68-6B4065E94D62.jpeg
 
dtfeld said:
Also check your shifting pressure. I have found that the pumps do wear out over time. I am replacing my other pump/control block as a preventative measure this winter as the operating pressure was dropping below about 250 psi. The new pump puts out 350+.

Just received the new one last night. Cheaper than 2 new solenoids. The whole shooting match is $800 delivered with the new style solenoids, new (and in my opinion…better) electrical connections and 3 new piston rings and the gasket.
This is basically the entire control system on these transmissions.

Marinegears.com - (954) 467-1540. Justin helped me on this.

This is about a 1-2 hour DIY job. Getting the old pump off, and the new one installed is about 20 minutes. The rest is swapping/installing the hydraulic fittings and the temp and pressure senders. If you start moving fitting, you'll need some loctite 592 or 545 to seal the threads.


View attachment 119839
Click to expand...
Thank you.. I know them and spoke with them at the Lauderdale boat show... I might invest in one for the port side.. Its working fine at the moment
 
I had intermittent shifting on the port side and swapped the control blocks. Problem followed, so I replaced the bad one that was now on the Starboard side, and left the better of the 2 originals on the port side, but knew pressure was low. To my knowledge (and I read/searched extensively), there isn't much you can do to adjust pressure and/operation

This finishes zeroing out my transmissions as best I can.
 
nealtrombley said:
Thank you.. I know them and spoke with them at the Lauderdale boat show... I might invest in one for the port side.. Its working fine at the moment
Click to expand...
Picked up the control block yesterday from marine gear
Thank you for the heads up
 
nealtrombley said:
Picked up the control block yesterday from marine gear
Thank you for the heads up
Click to expand...

I just got mine assembled with temperature and pressure transducers, and painted. I should be installing this week.

These come with new electrical connections, and you’ll need a special crimped to do the job right.

This is what I use and it makes a solid connection. Huge improvement over the old blade style.

4D76E338-2218-4583-9C27-171ED442D892.png
 
dtfeld said:
I just got mine assembled with temperature and pressure transducers, and painted. I should be installing this week.

These come with new electrical connections, and you’ll need a special crimped to do the job right.

This is what I use and it makes a solid connection. Huge improvement over the old blade style.

View attachment 120693
Click to expand...
Perfect
Thank you
 
dtfeld said:
I just got mine assembled with temperature and pressure transducers, and painted. I should be installing this week.

These come with new electrical connections, and you’ll need a special crimped to do the job right.

This is what I use and it makes a solid connection. Huge improvement over the old blade style.

View attachment 120693
Click to expand...
That is the cheapest metri-pack crimper I've ever seen - I think I paid over $90 for a Delphi crimper. Just about every low voltage connector I do anymore is Metri-pack from the 150 series to the 630 series.
You can accumulate quite an investment in these connectors by the time you have all of the right pieces for the make-up.
 
ttmott said:
That is the cheapest metri-pack crimper I've ever seen - I think I paid over $90 for a Delphi crimper. Just about every low voltage connector I do anymore is Metri-pack from the 150 series to the 630 series.
You can accumulate quite an investment in these connectors by the time you have all of the right pieces for the make-up.
Click to expand...

This one doesn't have all the peices and parts, but works well for the connections I've done specifically for the ZF transmission solenoids.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,112
Messages
1,426,284
Members
61,025
Latest member
jralcorn
Back
Top