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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Lake Ouachita, Arkansas
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    320 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    6.1 V drives
    Posts
    701

    Cleaning Eisenglass

    I ran across this concoction and wondered what other folks use.

    The best cleaner is also the cheapest. You'll need:

    small bottle of Johnsons Baby Shampoo
    1 gallon distilled water
    1 wool mitten (Walmart automotive department)
    1 chamois cloth

    Mix about 1/2 teaspoon shampoo with quart of water, wash with mitt, then chamois. Works better than you can imagine until you try it.


    How many of ya'll keep your glass up year round?
    Visit My Blog

    SOLD :(
    Annie Laurie
    '05 320
    6.2L V-Drives

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Boat
    Sold Sea ray, currently own a Regal
    Details
    2001 Regal 3780
    Engine(s)
    Twin 7.4 MPI 380 HP
    Posts
    2,308

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    We keep ours up year round and we use Meguiers for deep cleaning, mild soap for regular cleanings. Glass is 3+ years old and still looks good.
    95 330DA 7.4s V-Drives: SOLD
    My Blog: http://dotnetrocks.blogspot.com/
    Her Blog: http://amyshome.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Gig Harbor, WA
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    2008 340 DA
    Engine(s)
    8.1 Horizons w/V-drives
    Posts
    770

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+M5916
    I recently doscoverd the Meguirs Quick Wax works really well. It also "seems" to stay clean longer. Another big benefit is I only take one product to the front of the boat to clean clean all of the glass (even though it says not to use on regular glass, I do and it works well). Also fast and easy hull touch up. My black hull was looking kind of dull a while back- I went over the entire boat, and it looks like I did a detailed wax. Easy to use stuff overall.

    '08 340 DA: "Sarah Smile"
    Gig Harbor, Washington

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    2003 480 DB Zodiac ProJet Dinghy Yamaha 110vx WaveRunner
    Engine(s)
    QSM-11 Diesels
    Posts
    10,620

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    I use Plexus on mine... It actually has a wax in it also. I'm not sure I would use wool on that stuff as wool is abrasive. Also, NEVER use paper towels. Paper towels are *very* abrasive and some of them have glass chips in them to make them that way.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Boat
    Sold Sea ray, currently own a Regal
    Details
    2001 Regal 3780
    Engine(s)
    Twin 7.4 MPI 380 HP
    Posts
    2,308

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    This is what we use for regular cleaning:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00079LVZ2

    Meguiars also has another product we use for more deep cleaning...it's a brown gel/liquidy stuff.
    95 330DA 7.4s V-Drives: SOLD
    My Blog: http://dotnetrocks.blogspot.com/
    Her Blog: http://amyshome.blogspot.com/

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Washington Park Marina, Michigan City
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    '07 340 DA, E80, Vessel View, Soft Top '12 Boston Whaler 15 Montauk
    Engine(s)
    8.1 Mercruiser V-Drives, Mercury 60 HP Bigfoot
    Posts
    10,985

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    recently I have been using yacht brite's Serious Shine with good results.
    Flounder of the most broken Sea Ray "Destiny".
    "I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure........"




    Quando omni flunkus moritati

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    2006 260DA
    Engine(s)
    350 MAG Bravo III
    Posts
    5,961

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    You need to be carefull generalizing what products are safe to use on your clear vinyl windows. Different types of clear vinyl have different needs. I have taken the liberty of copying a very good write-up on this below. I obtained this from http://www.hurricaneshuttersflorida....oatWindows.htm


    The Care and Feeding of Your Clear Vinyl Boat Windows

    by: James "Doc" Lewis

    Strataglass, Lexan, Plexiglass, Isenglass, Crystal Clear, Eisenglass, etc. Whatever you call it, it all comes from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which has certain definite characteristics.

    1. Vinyl is a UV-sensitive material which degrades when exposed to sunlight.

    2. A vinyls topcoat holds in plasticizers, softening agents which keep vinyl supple.

    3. Clear vinyl has NO topcoat. (The one exception to this rule is Strataglass, which has a protective coating. Unless otherwise noted, the advise in this article applies only to untreated clear vinyl and therefore excludes Strataglass.)

    Thats It! All you ever needed to know about vinyl boat windows in one easy lesson. Maintaining a topcoat and protecting against UV damage will keep vinyl looking good for years.

    Let up, for as little as a month, in this climate, and, well, read on . . .

    The sad truth is that all of those lovely, clear, vinyl windows, that you were so proud of when they were new, will yellow, scratch, and become an ugly nuisance in a very short time without proper care.

    Q. What you mean Doc, you dont just hang um and forget um?

    Who is that guy?

    Unlike regular safety glass which has a fairly hard surface and resists scratching, and even your vinyl seats which have a top-coat to protect the underlying material, a vinyl window requires a protective coating to separate it from the elements.

    Think of it a little like your skin. With regular washing, sunscreen, and moisturizer our skin can take the Emerald Coast summer conditions without too much trouble. Eliminate one or more of these and stay outside 24/7 and well be looking 102 years old in no time, even if were only 20.

    Cleaning Procedure

    At BoatDocs1 we start off by removing as much of the loose dirt as possible with a fine water spray. Its best to wet the entire surface giving the water time to soften anything stuck to the window. Next we gently wash the surface with a mild soap and water solution. (No detergents or harsh cleansers, PLEASE)

    Next, give the window a thorough rinsing with more fresh water and then dry, either with a clean terry cloth towel or chamois.

    After several years of experimentation and research we have been convinced beyond a doubt that the only product to use on vinyl is 303Products, Aerospace Protectant. Ill let you go to their web site and read their copy on why its the best. But notice I said copy, not hype, because after using it for over a year I find their advertising to actually be a little understated.

    We treat by spraying the product on both sides of the surface and then polishing with a clean, dry, and well worn terry cloth towel. Old baby diapers are better but are becoming nearly as rare as DoDo eggs. . Applications last from 4-6 weeks and after the first couple of uses it seems to get easier to maintain as the surface actually seals itself and nothing seems to stick to it.

    Application improves visibility and reduces wear and scratching by reducing the coefficient of friction. In laymens terms this just means that it makes the surface slicker than snail snot. It also repels water, dust, dirt, salt, and ultra-violet radiation. (SPF 40) Added benefits are an anti-fog/anti-glare finish.

    A monthly treatment will keep those curtains looking like new for many years.

    And What About Strataglass?

    At the beginning of this article I mentioned that Strataglass doesnt fit the general recommendations for regular untreated vinyl windows. The reason behind this is that it is treated, at the factory, with a special protective coating which if maintained in accordance with their recommendations will last the life of the fabric and prevent the chemical leaching which is the cause of problems for the untreated fabrics.

    I dont want to get too far into specifics with this as they do have a website of their own and have care and cleaning advise which they offer their customers. If you have Strataglass curtains on your boat I suggest going to their website at http://www.webworksgroup.com/projects/strata/beta2/index.html and seeing just what they suggest for their product.

    What if were too late?

    If your vinyl windows have begun to show the effects of aging, we apologize.(should have told you sooner) We offer a restoration service consisting of fine polishing and a chemical treatment. (replacement of the plasticizers) In many cases we can eliminate most scratches, restore the translucent properties, and with continued maintenance with 303 Aerospace Protectant will add years to the effective life of your vinyl windows.

    If you have some vinyl windows which you are thinking about replacing let us take a look and see what we can do. The service is quite reasonable when compared to the price of replacement.

    Below is the step by step procedure we follow to bring back vinyl windows - hope it helps.

    Overview:

    This set of instructions is for windows with moderate scratching and crazing. If the scratches are very deep the process would need to be started off with wet sanding which is a subject all by itself and wont be covered in this article.

    What we want to accomplish here is to polish out any scratches, stains, imperfections, or swirl marks starting with a very fine compound and then finishing with a restorer polish to replenish the plasticizers in the vinyl.

    Tools:

    You should find all of these items at an automotive paint store. To start with you will need a variable speed electric drill (1000-1200 rpm) with a velcro backing plate which will accept foam rubber polishing pads. You will need 3 of the pads but an extra one will save some time when changing polish. Always reserve a pad for each compound or polish. While your there ask if they carry the fine, micro-polishing compounds made specifically for clear vinyl windows that you will use to actually remove the scratches. If the sales-person seems to know what theyre talking about, pick his brain on what products he sells the most of for this purpose.

    I have had excellent results with a 3-M product called "Finesse-it", which is used on both gelcoat and vinyl to good effect. If your trip to the automotive supply doesnt turn up anything better this will do the job and you can use whats left over on the rest of your boat.

    Another product I recommend highly, is Meguiars, "Plastx" which is perfect for the finish (polish) runs with the pads. It also makes a good occasional cleaner and preservative throughout the year. It uses the Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology, (MDAT), used in their paint and gelcoat polishes to produce a powerful, yet safe plastic cleaner. If the scratches are light you may get good results by using just this product and making a couple of passes with the buffer.

    Procedure:

    If you have some experience with polishing its a plus although the technique used here is unique to the material and therefore will be learned as you go along.

    We usually start with the smallest, or least noticeable window first to get an idea of the amount of work needed and to check the results. If there are several small pieces choose the one which is most damaged. After completing one is a good time to compare the work involved with the expense of replacing the window. If time isnt a prime consideration but money is, then this system will serve you well.

    Step by Step:

    Cleaning:

    First thing is to thoroughly wash the window using a mild (Ivory is good) soap and water solution, rinsing well, and then drying gently with a soft cotton towel. I prefer old cloth diapers when I can get them but they have become nearly extinct in my neck of the woods. The main thing is to always use the softest, cleanest towel you can find on your windows and now is a good time to start.

    Polishing:

    After the window is dry lay it out on a firm, flat table with plenty of soft padding underneath. Make sure the padding is smooth and level or youll leave edges as you polish. Set up your drill with the backing plate and the first pad and apply enough of the polish to the window to cover a 1 foot square section.

    Immediately start buffing the section using light pressure and keeping the pad moving. The secret here is slow and easy, its plastic not concrete. Keep it moist (use a water spray bottle) and when the compound is nearly used up, youll get a feel for it, reapply to an adjoining section and repeat the procedure. Continue till the side has been done and then gently clean using the procedure outlined above for cleaning.

    Finishing:

    When the polishing and cleaning is completed (both sides) take a clean pad and apply the Plastx to the entire window following the same procedure as for the compound/polish. When the window has been completely covered take a clean cotton cloth and buff off the haze. The vinyl will absorb most of the Plastx which will help feed and restore the plasticizers.

    As a final procedure I usually go over the entire window with 303 Products Space Age Protectant to assure protection from ultra violet radiation, the number 1 enemy of all vinyl and clear vinyl windows particularly.

    A Couple of Tips on Vinyl:

    NEVER use any kind of regular window cleaners, detergents, abrasives, petroleum based products, or alcohol on vinyl windows. They are too harsh and will damage the top coat, speeding up the loss of plasticizers. The vinyl will dry out, turn yellow and brittle, and soon need to be replaced. Youve seen this before, now you know why.

    Right along with this is a big ditto for all of your vinyl products either on the boat or ashore. Only the mildest soap solution, complete rinsing and a safe protective coating will keep all of your vinyl goods looking like new.

    About The Author


    James "Doc" Lewis has been "messin about in boats" for as long as he can remember. He is owner/operator of BoatDocs1, a full-service boat detailing-yacht maintenance company serving the Emerald Coast region of Florida. To learn more about boats and keeping them looking their best visit his web site at: http://www.boatdocs1.com/ You are welcome to distribute this article via Email or on the Internet. The only provision is that it be published in its entirety including this resource box. For print publication contact the author at Doc@boatdocs1.com Related articles will be found at www.boatdocs1.com
    2006 260DA............Former Sea Rays..... 1999 210SD ...... 2002 240SD

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Barnegat Bay, NJ
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    2001 290 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    Twin 5.0L Bravo III
    Posts
    122

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    Plexus and occassionally 303, been up for 7 full seasons (May-October) still clear but southwest facing windows are now starting to bubble. Mike
    Jersey Mike
    2001 290DA Twin 5.0 EFI BIII

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    St. Albans, VT
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    310 Sundancer 2000
    Engine(s)
    350 Mercruiser w/V-Drives
    Posts
    650

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    You need to be carefull generalizing what products are safe to use on your clear vinyl windows. Different types of clear vinyl have different needs. I have taken the liberty of copying a very good write-up on this below. I obtained this from http://www.hurricaneshuttersflorida....oatWindows.htm


    The Care and Feeding of Your Clear Vinyl Boat Windows

    by: James "Doc" Lewis

    Strataglass, Lexan, Plexiglass, Isenglass, Crystal Clear, Eisenglass, etc. Whatever you call it, it all comes from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which has certain definite characteristics.

    1. Vinyl is a UV-sensitive material which degrades when exposed to sunlight.

    2. A vinyls topcoat holds in plasticizers, softening agents which keep vinyl supple.

    3. Clear vinyl has NO topcoat. (The one exception to this rule is Strataglass, which has a protective coating. Unless otherwise noted, the advise in this article applies only to untreated clear vinyl and therefore excludes Strataglass.)

    Thats It! All you ever needed to know about vinyl boat windows in one easy lesson. Maintaining a topcoat and protecting against UV damage will keep vinyl looking good for years.

    Let up, for as little as a month, in this climate, and, well, read on . . .

    The sad truth is that all of those lovely, clear, vinyl windows, that you were so proud of when they were new, will yellow, scratch, and become an ugly nuisance in a very short time without proper care.

    Q. What you mean Doc, you dont just hang um and forget um?

    Who is that guy?

    Unlike regular safety glass which has a fairly hard surface and resists scratching, and even your vinyl seats which have a top-coat to protect the underlying material, a vinyl window requires a protective coating to separate it from the elements.

    Think of it a little like your skin. With regular washing, sunscreen, and moisturizer our skin can take the Emerald Coast summer conditions without too much trouble. Eliminate one or more of these and stay outside 24/7 and well be looking 102 years old in no time, even if were only 20.

    Cleaning Procedure

    At BoatDocs1 we start off by removing as much of the loose dirt as possible with a fine water spray. Its best to wet the entire surface giving the water time to soften anything stuck to the window. Next we gently wash the surface with a mild soap and water solution. (No detergents or harsh cleansers, PLEASE)

    Next, give the window a thorough rinsing with more fresh water and then dry, either with a clean terry cloth towel or chamois.

    After several years of experimentation and research we have been convinced beyond a doubt that the only product to use on vinyl is 303Products, Aerospace Protectant. Ill let you go to their web site and read their copy on why its the best. But notice I said copy, not hype, because after using it for over a year I find their advertising to actually be a little understated.

    We treat by spraying the product on both sides of the surface and then polishing with a clean, dry, and well worn terry cloth towel. Old baby diapers are better but are becoming nearly as rare as DoDo eggs. . Applications last from 4-6 weeks and after the first couple of uses it seems to get easier to maintain as the surface actually seals itself and nothing seems to stick to it.

    Application improves visibility and reduces wear and scratching by reducing the coefficient of friction. In laymens terms this just means that it makes the surface slicker than snail snot. It also repels water, dust, dirt, salt, and ultra-violet radiation. (SPF 40) Added benefits are an anti-fog/anti-glare finish.

    A monthly treatment will keep those curtains looking like new for many years.

    And What About Strataglass?

    At the beginning of this article I mentioned that Strataglass doesnt fit the general recommendations for regular untreated vinyl windows. The reason behind this is that it is treated, at the factory, with a special protective coating which if maintained in accordance with their recommendations will last the life of the fabric and prevent the chemical leaching which is the cause of problems for the untreated fabrics.

    I dont want to get too far into specifics with this as they do have a website of their own and have care and cleaning advise which they offer their customers. If you have Strataglass curtains on your boat I suggest going to their website at http://www.webworksgroup.com/projects/strata/beta2/index.html and seeing just what they suggest for their product.

    What if were too late?

    If your vinyl windows have begun to show the effects of aging, we apologize.(should have told you sooner) We offer a restoration service consisting of fine polishing and a chemical treatment. (replacement of the plasticizers) In many cases we can eliminate most scratches, restore the translucent properties, and with continued maintenance with 303 Aerospace Protectant will add years to the effective life of your vinyl windows.

    If you have some vinyl windows which you are thinking about replacing let us take a look and see what we can do. The service is quite reasonable when compared to the price of replacement.

    Below is the step by step procedure we follow to bring back vinyl windows - hope it helps.

    Overview:

    This set of instructions is for windows with moderate scratching and crazing. If the scratches are very deep the process would need to be started off with wet sanding which is a subject all by itself and wont be covered in this article.

    What we want to accomplish here is to polish out any scratches, stains, imperfections, or swirl marks starting with a very fine compound and then finishing with a restorer polish to replenish the plasticizers in the vinyl.

    Tools:

    You should find all of these items at an automotive paint store. To start with you will need a variable speed electric drill (1000-1200 rpm) with a velcro backing plate which will accept foam rubber polishing pads. You will need 3 of the pads but an extra one will save some time when changing polish. Always reserve a pad for each compound or polish. While your there ask if they carry the fine, micro-polishing compounds made specifically for clear vinyl windows that you will use to actually remove the scratches. If the sales-person seems to know what theyre talking about, pick his brain on what products he sells the most of for this purpose.

    I have had excellent results with a 3-M product called "Finesse-it", which is used on both gelcoat and vinyl to good effect. If your trip to the automotive supply doesnt turn up anything better this will do the job and you can use whats left over on the rest of your boat.

    Another product I recommend highly, is Meguiars, "Plastx" which is perfect for the finish (polish) runs with the pads. It also makes a good occasional cleaner and preservative throughout the year. It uses the Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology, (MDAT), used in their paint and gelcoat polishes to produce a powerful, yet safe plastic cleaner. If the scratches are light you may get good results by using just this product and making a couple of passes with the buffer.

    Procedure:

    If you have some experience with polishing its a plus although the technique used here is unique to the material and therefore will be learned as you go along.

    We usually start with the smallest, or least noticeable window first to get an idea of the amount of work needed and to check the results. If there are several small pieces choose the one which is most damaged. After completing one is a good time to compare the work involved with the expense of replacing the window. If time isnt a prime consideration but money is, then this system will serve you well.

    Step by Step:

    Cleaning:

    First thing is to thoroughly wash the window using a mild (Ivory is good) soap and water solution, rinsing well, and then drying gently with a soft cotton towel. I prefer old cloth diapers when I can get them but they have become nearly extinct in my neck of the woods. The main thing is to always use the softest, cleanest towel you can find on your windows and now is a good time to start.

    Polishing:

    After the window is dry lay it out on a firm, flat table with plenty of soft padding underneath. Make sure the padding is smooth and level or youll leave edges as you polish. Set up your drill with the backing plate and the first pad and apply enough of the polish to the window to cover a 1 foot square section.

    Immediately start buffing the section using light pressure and keeping the pad moving. The secret here is slow and easy, its plastic not concrete. Keep it moist (use a water spray bottle) and when the compound is nearly used up, youll get a feel for it, reapply to an adjoining section and repeat the procedure. Continue till the side has been done and then gently clean using the procedure outlined above for cleaning.

    Finishing:

    When the polishing and cleaning is completed (both sides) take a clean pad and apply the Plastx to the entire window following the same procedure as for the compound/polish. When the window has been completely covered take a clean cotton cloth and buff off the haze. The vinyl will absorb most of the Plastx which will help feed and restore the plasticizers.

    As a final procedure I usually go over the entire window with 303 Products Space Age Protectant to assure protection from ultra violet radiation, the number 1 enemy of all vinyl and clear vinyl windows particularly.

    A Couple of Tips on Vinyl:

    NEVER use any kind of regular window cleaners, detergents, abrasives, petroleum based products, or alcohol on vinyl windows. They are too harsh and will damage the top coat, speeding up the loss of plasticizers. The vinyl will dry out, turn yellow and brittle, and soon need to be replaced. Youve seen this before, now you know why.

    Right along with this is a big ditto for all of your vinyl products either on the boat or ashore. Only the mildest soap solution, complete rinsing and a safe protective coating will keep all of your vinyl goods looking like new.

    About The Author


    James "Doc" Lewis has been "messin about in boats" for as long as he can remember. He is owner/operator of BoatDocs1, a full-service boat detailing-yacht maintenance company serving the Emerald Coast region of Florida. To learn more about boats and keeping them looking their best visit his web site at: http://www.boatdocs1.com/ You are welcome to distribute this article via Email or on the Internet. The only provision is that it be published in its entirety including this resource box. For print publication contact the author at Doc@boatdocs1.com Related articles will be found at www.boatdocs1.com
    I followed this recovery process on my '87 270 with amazing results.
    -Kurt

    Dancing Queen - 2000 310 Sundancer. 350 MPI, V-Drives
    1984 Boston Whaler Montauk
    Former boats: 1987 270 Sundancer, 1984 225 SRV
    Lake Champlain, VT

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Marysville, WA
    Boat
    Searay
    Details
    2000 260DA w/Garmin 545s GPS with Standard Horion GX1500S DSC VHF
    Engine(s)
    5.7L EFI with New Gen Bravo III Merc
    Posts
    10,003

    Re: Cleaning Eisenglass

    I use Meguiar's # 17 and #10 Cleaner and Polish

    and


    They work very well.
    Skål, Todd

    ~Nehalennia ∆~ Celtic Goddess of the Seafarers
    2000 ~ SeaRay ~ 260DA, 5.7L EFI, Bravo III

    www.vikingbay.co

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