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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    None
    Boat
    Of
    Details
    Your
    Engine(s)
    Business
    Posts
    1,239
    Quote Originally Posted by islandhopper00
    If you look at the extreme angle of the nose of the boat and the uneven small surface area to mount to, all rollers I looked at would not accomplish the job.
    I see what you mean when I look at the bow in profile. It's kind of a moot point anyway if you don't intend to leave the anchor out. Isn't that the reason for the anchor chute anyway? So you wouldn't have to constantly handle the anchor? I owned my 300DA for 5 years and never once touched the anchor, and we spent a lot of time on the hook.

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    so toms river,nj
    Boat
    sea ray
    Details
    240 sundancer 2006 WICKED WENCH
    Engine(s)
    350 mag horizon B3
    Posts
    50
    hello hopper.
    any pics of the bollard you were talking about? If not,let us know the size, brand and where you are getting this from. My dealer is able to order me the roller for the same price.

    Thanks again and that is a nice install,Eddie

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Lake Norman (Denver) NC
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    240 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    5.0L 260hp, BIII outdrive
    Posts
    1,913
    Hello eddie, I bought a bollard from Marine Trading Hardware on e-bay. I haven't recieved it yet. The company I bought it from is in Canada and it is apperantly in customs trying to get clearance to come into the country. I'm told it could be six weeks before I get it. My luck. I found one on Boaters world web site and it is called a white cap mooring bit. mfr#s1320 Boaters world stock #327992277. price is $57.99. dimensions are 4 1/2" W x 3 3/4" L base, 2 3/8" dia. x 5" H, 7" cross piece.
    When I get mine installed I'll snap some pictures. Just remember, I don't think you can store the anchor on the roller, unless you find a small anchor that will hold your boat.? I'll use mine for anchoring and providing a straight pull from the anchor in currents, hopefully that way the boat won't "sail" on the anchor. Good luck.
    Mike

    2006 240 DA 5.0 Bravo III, "Frayed Knot"

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    South Carolina
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    '99 240 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    5.0 MPI
    Posts
    456
    Hey guys, I don't own a 240 but I do own a 230 Sundancer and I've made a commitment to installing some sort of anchor roller that works. From studying new 240's and comparing them to my boat I do believe that we have very similar issues that can help each other as we brainstorm.

    I just got back from Wastful Marine with a couple of their overpriced parts and would like your feedback since I think we're all in the same boat here, to coin a phrase.

    I'm attaching a photo that I hope serves to clarify my plan. I found a lengthy bow/anchor roller that can be bolted onto the dropoff angle of my bow and hold an anchor. I have the same issues that you do; to run a rode/line above it blocks the one-piece green/red bow light.

    The photo obviously shows a test-fit with no permanent attachments and is only an experiment at this point in time. My idea is to do this for real and then remove the green/red running light and put a pulley in its place, then route the anchor rope to another pulley going down into the hatch where a windlass/winch locked onto a firm backing controls the system. Then I'll simply buy a couple of singular green and red running lights to install on each side of the assembly.

    Thoughts?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Gerald
    1999 240 Sundancer 5.0 MPI "SeaRenity"
    1993 230 Sundancer 4.3LX "Offroad Dancer" (sold)
    South Carolina

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    Boat less / Sold
    Engine(s)
    5.0EFI BII
    Posts
    708
    That's exactly what I was thinking. It looks like it could work. My question is: I have 6-8 ft. of chain coming from the anchor. Will I be able to close the hatch w/ chain? It's hard to visual this because my boat is 30+ miles away in storage right now.
    -Mike
    -Mike
    "Just Chill'n" 2001 240 Sundancer 5.0 EFI BravoII

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    South Carolina
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    '99 240 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    5.0 MPI
    Posts
    456
    I don't think so; at least if it's anything like mine. I'll have to cut into the hatch and totally make a custom setup to route it in there.

    The concept of cutting an inlet into the hatch is easy in theory but to make it look stock/decent will be the hard part. I think I could do this no problem but I want it to look right once I'm finished.... the appearance is what I'm struggling with working out at this point in time. I know I'm gonna do it; I just gotta figure out the details.
    Gerald
    1999 240 Sundancer 5.0 MPI "SeaRenity"
    1993 230 Sundancer 4.3LX "Offroad Dancer" (sold)
    South Carolina

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Lake Norman (Denver) NC
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    240 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    5.0L 260hp, BIII outdrive
    Posts
    1,913
    The roller still looks to short to me. Is the anchor shaft wedging in against the rope guide? Sounds to me like you have a good idea and that is the direction I was headed untill...
    So how do you plan to mount the windlass? My thought is/was to secure or bolt down the anchor locker hatch or replace it with a custom fitted 3/4" starboard one. Mount the windlass on top of the hatch so that the chain / rope will feed through the windlass into the anchor locker. Pulleys of some sort will need to be mounted so the rode does not drag accross the deck.
    The hard part of all of this is making it all look as stock as possible. Nothing worse than looking at the eye sore on the bow every time you take the boat out. Whew, maybe I just need to bite the bullet and trade up to a 260. Man I don't want to do that.
    Mike

    2006 240 DA 5.0 Bravo III, "Frayed Knot"

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    South Carolina
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    '99 240 Sundancer
    Engine(s)
    5.0 MPI
    Posts
    456
    The roller is fine and a good fit. The windlass is going to be the hard part; like you I want it to look good once I'm done.

    My anchor hatch cover isn't even fiberglas like yours is; it's a cutout piece of lexan maybe 1/4" ~ 3/8" thick. I will have to replace that with a much thicker piece and do a lot of butressing and strengthening to make this work. My first thought was also to simply install the windlass on top of the hatch but then it occured to me that I'd have to do some severe rebuilding of the hatch cover or it would eventually rip loose under anchor loads.

    Wasteful Marine has a small boat windlass that is more like a winch and it coils up the line in the unit like a winch instead of simply drawing it through. My current idea is to use that item or a similar winch in some way instead of using a windlass:

    1) mount it on a highly-strengthened anchor hatch cover (which would necessitate figuring out how to strenghten the hatch cover enough to handle the stress);
    2) since it holds the anchor line within itself (removing the need to worry about routing the line down into the hatch) I could simply install the winch on the foredeck beyond the hatch cover (but I don't know how that would look having a couple feet of anchor line running up the bow);
    3) or I could make a very strong frame inside the hatch, mount the winch pointing up out of the hatch, and route the anchor line up through a hole in the hatch where a roller is mounted to run the line over the roller out to the anchor. The roller could be poking up through the hole in the hatch cover but still be firmly mounted onto the framework below so I wouldn't have to be so worried about how to strengthen the hatch cover.

    By far, option two would be the easiest route to take but as crazy as it may sound the third idea is the one I'm seriously considering right now. The windlass/winch would not be visible, it could be built on a very strong frame, and the hole in the hatch cover could be fairly small and easily made to look like it belongs there.
    Gerald
    1999 240 Sundancer 5.0 MPI "SeaRenity"
    1993 230 Sundancer 4.3LX "Offroad Dancer" (sold)
    South Carolina

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Boat
    Sea Ray
    Details
    Boat less / Sold
    Engine(s)
    5.0EFI BII
    Posts
    708
    Went to a local today and made an appointment to have snaps installed and that crap rubber tracking cut off. They gave me a price of $75. Well worth it to me. Boat is coming home in 2 weeks to get ready. Excitement is in the air.
    -Mike
    -Mike
    "Just Chill'n" 2001 240 Sundancer 5.0 EFI BravoII

  10. #100
    240DA owner here, just jumped onto this forum.

    2001, 6.2L 320hp, BravoIII, shore power, vacuflush, blah blah blah.

    Parking it up at Lake Powell after having it down here since I bought it used in August.

    Carry on.
    2001 Sea Ray 240 Sundancer, 6.2L 320hp, BIII
    2004 Dodge Cummins on Steroids

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