Bravo 3 shifting issues

**Fly4Kix** · 08-30-2012, 02:59 PM

At this point I just want to get through the end of the season. Thinking I'll pull the drive in the fall and have a look, the boats 7 years old and if they've never been changed I'd say it's about time for bellows replacement.
Loneranger, I can relate to whole "wife laughing while having no option but reverse scenario." Almost had to travel back to the ramp that way. BTW, we spend most of our time on Melton Hill, occasionally venturing out on Tellico, you get down that way much?

**Loneranger** · 08-30-2012, 03:31 PM

Never been on melton hill but i am on tellico on a regular basis. I can get to it from loudon without having to go through the lock as you know.

John

**Fly4Kix** · 10-27-2012, 11:31 AM

An update to the story(saga?). Took the boat in to have it winterized after the last cruise of the season. They had time to troubleshoot the shifting problem, looks like a new cone clutch at this point. They'll be pulling the drive early next week and I'll have a better look then. Estimating $800-$1000 for parts and labor, which doesn't seem too bad but I admit I'm a little disheartened it's time for this with only 200 hours on the boat. Admittedly I only put the last 50 on there, so who knows what the first 150 hours were like.
I feel pretty confident the drive has never been pulled, so I'm thinking while it's off might as well have them do the bellows and engine alignment check. Anything thing else I should consider having done?

**Lazy Daze** · 10-28-2012, 09:06 AM

Yeah, I understand where you're coming from. True, this shouldn't have to be done already. But you said it best - who knows about the first 150 hours. Besides, when you're dealing with mechanical things, anything's possible, you know? But, yes, it still sucks.

I'd also do the trim sender/limit switches.

**RonG** · 10-28-2012, 10:32 AM

I've had the same situation happen to me this year. It would only seem to happen after the boat warmed up but when I put it into forward it wouldn't catch and would have to keep moving the throttle forward until it clunked in to gear. Had the cables adjusted a couple of times and now sometimes when I am in reverse backing into the slip and put it into neutral (the throttle is locked in neutral) the boat is still in reverse gear. I have to move it beyond neutral in forward to take it out of reverse. Makes for some fun docking sometimes. Was thinking I should replace the lower shift cable over the winter layup but wasn't thinking about a cone clutch issue. How can you tell if that is the issue or not? Thanks. Ron

**Fly4Kix** · 10-28-2012, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by RonG

I've had the same situation happen to me this year. It would only seem to happen after the boat warmed up but when I put it into forward it wouldn't catch and would have to keep moving the throttle forward until it clunked in to gear. Had the cables adjusted a couple of times and now sometimes when I am in reverse backing into the slip and put it into neutral (the throttle is locked in neutral) the boat is still in reverse gear. I have to move it beyond neutral in forward to take it out of reverse. Makes for some fun docking sometimes. Was thinking I should replace the lower shift cable over the winter layup but wasn't thinking about a cone clutch issue. How can you tell if that is the issue or not? Thanks. Ron

Hey Ron,
I started by adjusting the shift cable thinking that it had stretched, as I was having those exact symptoms. At some point too much adjustment would cause the reverse side to do what you're experiencing, but if the forward side of the clutch is going bad it won't solve that problem. I went through the whole gamut of things, including changing out the drive lube, which was pretty dirty so it needed to be done anyway. As the mechanic said, not much left in the whole drive except for the clutch. I suppose we won't know for sure until the drive is pulled and upper portion disassembled. I'll report back later this week and with any luck have some pictures too.

**Fly4Kix** · 10-28-2012, 06:57 PM

Thanks Dennis the trim switches didn't even cross my mind. Good idea.

**RonG** · 11-11-2012, 09:00 PM

Originally Posted by Fly4Kix

Hey Ron,
I started by adjusting the shift cable thinking that it had stretched, as I was having those exact symptoms. At some point too much adjustment would cause the reverse side to do what you're experiencing, but if the forward side of the clutch is going bad it won't solve that problem. I went through the whole gamut of things, including changing out the drive lube, which was pretty dirty so it needed to be done anyway. As the mechanic said, not much left in the whole drive except for the clutch. I suppose we won't know for sure until the drive is pulled and upper portion disassembled. I'll report back later this week and with any luck have some pictures too.

Hey Fly,
any updates?

**Fly4Kix** · 11-15-2012, 07:31 PM

Yeah, the shop finally had time to work on it today. I went by this afternoon and had a look when they had the drive off and the upper disassembled. Fortunately just the clutch needed to be changed, everything else looked good. There was a chance the shifter foot would need to be changed as well, got lucky on that end.
Actually by my untrained eye the clutch didn't look too bad either but once you see the setup it doesn't take much wear to cause trouble. Also the surface in the gears the cone clutch actually "grabs" looked glazed, sort of like brake rotors on a vehicle after they've been too hot. The plan is to use some lapping compound on that surface to remove the glazing and then to reassemble the thing.
While all this is apart I'm having them change all the bellows and do the engine alignment check.
At this point I'm in for about $800 in parts about I'm guessing by the time they're done $1000 in labor. For what it's worth the manual shows the labor at almost $1500 for the job so I'm pretty happy with my shop.
I did take some pictures but to be honest they really don't show anything other than disassembled parts, can't see any real wear.

**Fly4Kix** · 11-21-2012, 07:45 PM

Ok, so got the boat back today. Total damage by the time they pulled the drive, replaced the clutch, all the bellows, put it all back together and lake tested it was $1960. That included winterizing the engine and water system. Pretty crazy to go through with only 200 hours but, oh well it is what it is and I'm glad it's done. Now all that's left is wait it out until spring!