Winterizing a 185 3.0L Merc

**jcoukos** · 09-28-2012, 08:46 AM

In the past I'd run antifreeze thru the engine, but I noticed that the blue hoses that are quick disconnect allow the water to drain from the engine.

So my question is : By simply disconnecting the drain lines and allowing the water to drain from the block is this sufficient for winterization?

Thanks

JC

**ZZ13** · 09-28-2012, 11:18 AM

My 3.0L manual says that after draining, "for additional protection against corrosion and rust" to add the propylene glycol antifreeze. Most on this board seem to heed that suggestion.

**jcoukos** · 09-29-2012, 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by ZZ13

My 3.0L manual says that after draining, "for additional protection against corrosion and rust" to add the propylene glycol antifreeze. Most on this board seem to heed that suggestion.

Thanks

I had a 2000 310 DA years ago, now just spend my boating time on the lake. looks like you have best of both worlds!

**Lazy Daze** · 09-30-2012, 11:17 AM

You need to treat the fuel and then fog the engine, first. Because you have a carb'd engine, you can easily do that by spraying fogging fluid in through the throttle body. Then, do as Bill mentioned and pour the proper AF in through the hoses on the t-stat housing (after draining, of course).

**Twilliams** · 10-01-2012, 07:40 AM

Not to hijack this tread but I just did this for the first time on my 3.0L. Here is what I did and am wondering if it was correct/sufficient.

I drained the water from both blue hoses and then I moved them back to the mount but did not connect them yet.

I then removed each of the three hoses on the T-stat housing and poured marine AF into each one. On each one I poured until it came out the other end. Exhaust manifold came out of the outdrive exhaust area, intake came out the impeller intake and the block started to come out of the blue block drain hose. I then reattached the blue hoses.

Is this the proper procedure to sufficiently protect from freezing? I also changed oil and filter and sprayed fogging oil for about 10-15secs. I plan to drain and fill the gear lube but ran out of day light yesterday.

**Lazy Daze** · 10-01-2012, 08:22 AM

Reconnect the blue hoses and refill, then you're good. With them off, the AF didn't get everywhere it should.

**Twilliams** · 10-01-2012, 10:15 AM

Originally Posted by Lazy Daze

Reconnect the blue hoses and refill, then you're good. With them off, the AF didn't get everywhere it should.

So I should remove all three hoses again and refil until it overflows? Or should I remove the tstat housing top and pour in there?

also I only used about 2 gals and the shop I got it from told me to buy 4 gals. Does this sound right?

**Lazy Daze** · 10-01-2012, 10:27 AM

Yes, remove the three hoses.

The block will take about 2 gallons. The manifold will take a little less than a gallon. The intake will take about 1/2 gallon. If you're very careful, you might do it in 3 gallons, but usually you will use a little more.

**rcknecht** · 10-01-2012, 10:52 AM

I run fresh wather thru the boat untill it heats up completely, then I drain the "blue plugs". The I use my muff attached to my witerizing container with about 4-5 gals of pink... While running the pink through I fog the engine, timing to stall it with fogging spray before I run our of pink in my conatainer. I then change the oil and oil filter... I don't disconnect any hoses... No need if you heat the engine up to open the T-Stat....

**jcoukos** · 10-01-2012, 02:10 PM

Originally Posted by Lazy Daze

You need to treat the fuel and then fog the engine, first. Because you have a carb'd engine, you can easily do that by spraying fogging fluid in through the throttle body. Then, do as Bill mentioned and pour the proper AF in through the hoses on the t-stat housing (after draining, of course).

Yes, I always fog the engine and have added Stabile to the gas, will add AF as well. Thanks JC