Replacing Companionway Door Tracks 340

[Hampton]

My upper Door Rail had chipped and a couple of the trucks were damaged due to abuse. I ordered a new upper rail and two new trucks. When the parts came in, the price was almost double the phone quote. That's another story. My dealer informed me that I could do the work without taking the helm out - he was right. He said it would take about an hour to get the door out - it took 5 minutes.

1) Unscrew upper trucks from door (4 total screws)
2) Unscrew lower screws which secure door to rail (rail holds trucks on bottom) (3 screws)
3) Slide lower rail to stbd, out of the way, and lift door out
4) Remove Mag Compass and upper instrument panel (12 screws)
5) Remove upper rail - use access holes to reach hidden screws (8 screws)
6) Match new metal rail to old, plastic rail. Drill first hole 3/4" from port side, then match the rest of the holes (about 8 holes - took about 5 minutes)
7) Replace rail using sealant in each hole
8) Replace door with new trucks - Tune door. There is an extra hole in the center of each truck in which a screw may be placed to raise door off truck to ensure clearance and make the door slide cleanly in the slot. This takes time - you have to take the truck off and out each time to re-tune the screw.
9) Replace instruments and compass

Complications:

1) Factory installed the upper rail with the helm out - they used a power screw driver and stripped one of the screw heads - I had to rip the old rail out around that screw (plastic) and remove the screw using plyers. Remember, there is only a couple of inches above each screw and I'm working through the instrument panel access and mag compass hole.

2) New rail had two holes drilled - apparently randomly. Holes went un-used.

3) New rail is slightly shorter than old - Had to install using one of the holes that was pre-drilled, install door, determine new placement of rail (slightly shorter on each end - drill port side hole 3/4" from end). Take everything apart, then drill holes and re-assemble.

4) Screwing screws through rail under the helm was very hard - didn't want to strip heads - had to used original holes due to lack of access - they were stripped before, and some were still very tight, especially with sealant.

5) Tuning the door is not easy. I plan to go back and re-drill the lower holes in the door which secure the door to the lower rail. My new holes will be lower to raise the door up. Currently, and probably the reason for the track/trucks being damaged, the door rubs on the lower portion of the slot. Upward pressure is required on the door to get it to slide freely. This puts undue pressure on the upper limit of the track and all parts of the trucks. This is due to the poor design of the door - these doors warp in the sun, usually downward. DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT SITTING ON THESE DOORS! Lowering the holes and re-securing the lower rail will raise the door up. I still have room above the door in the slot, but even after raising the door on the trucks, the bottom rubs the slot slightly. I plan to make this problem go away.

The entire job took about 3 hours, primarly due to having to install/uninstall entire assembly twice to make up for the new rail being shorter than the old - can't afford to have the trucks slide off one end of the rail or the other. My dealer charged me $300 for one rail and 2 trucks. He quoted me about 1/2 that. The box had 2 rails in it! I haven't told him yet. When I picked the parts up, I told him he quoted me about 1/2 that. He said that it was the same price. What would you do? I'm trying to keep a very friendly attitude, but I hate getting ripped off. I plan to call another dealer to get a parts quote.

[searaycruisn]

I watched (and helped) a friend do this same repair on a 2003 320. Main difficulties as you said was that there is very little clearance above the screws which hold the rails. Therefore, getting the screws in and out is a challenge. We also had some stripped screws. Also, there is no "access hole" in a 320. I presume the access hole you are speaking of is somewhere on the top of the helm.

Biggest problem on the 320 was that the replacement rails are plastic, and they are already starting to chip again, like the original rails.

Sounds like you got metal replacement rails?

The job on the 320 took considerably longer than 3 hours.

Incidentely, I have a friend with an older (2000) Rinker which need the rails replaced. On that boat the entire windshield and the helm needed to be removed. His yard is performing the repair over the winter. He put a claim in with his insurance company for the repair! Total cost will be close to $4,000!

[Hampton]

The access holes were where the instrument panel and mag compass go. I pulled those two out so I could reach in under the helm. Frequently, I would reach through where the instr. panel goes, and view through the mag comp hole. Sometimes, that was reversed.

If the workers in the assembly plant had any foresight or thought, they would be sure to drill the holes appropriately, and insert the fasteners in a moderate fashion as opposed to leaning on the power driver and forcing a bending/grinding screw into too small of a hole for the owner to contend with.

[Hampton]

This afternoon after work I went to the boat and moved the holes on the bottom track down and re-mounted the door. Now, it slides open and closed to the latched position with one finger. I'm going to have to re-train everyone not to slam the thing open and closed! Also, it opens to the open and latched position from the close and latched position with one finger. SUCCESS!

[skolbe]

Does anyone have problem - when the boat is out in the sun their companionway door is hard to open and close - but it works perfect in the shade?

[fwebster]

John,

Are you aware that the manufacturer of the door parts has ceased business? While the parts may seen expensive, at least you were able to get them. I think I might go back to the dealer and buy everything they can get for the door assy since any of us with Spartech Marine doors and now pretty much completely out of luck.

[Alex D]

John,

Are you aware that the manufacturer of the door parts has ceased business? While the parts may seen expensive, at least you were able to get them. I think I might go back to the dealer and buy everything they can get for the door assy since any of us with Spartech Marine doors and now pretty much completely out of luck.

Ughh ... is that also true for my 2002 340 Dancer??

[fwebster]

Spartech made a lot of stuff for Sea Ray from cabin entry doorways and hardware to the little transom/swim platform shower units. I don't know for certain who made the 340DA entry system, but is a good bet it was Spartech.

Hopefully, someone will buy all the molds and parts inventory and keep going.

[Alex D]

Thanks Frank ... sheeeet ... i am going to order acomplete kit tomorrow since mine are on their way out ... still working but clearly rough so i gonna ge them rebuilt by my SR dealer.

[Hampton]

John,

Are you aware that the manufacturer of the door parts has ceased business? While the parts may seen expensive, at least you were able to get them. I think I might go back to the dealer and buy everything they can get for the door assy since any of us with Spartech Marine doors and now pretty much completely out of luck.

Really? I might have to sell the rail that I have - somewhere. Where the heck is that thing?