On the back is a 4 6 8 switch, turn it rapidly thru all settings several times and return to the correct setting and see how it works. That cleans up the contacts a bit.
I just finished replacing the power inlet with a stainless Marinco unit. The cord is now tight in the fitting with no wiggle.
I put an IR gun on the back side of the old receptacle while pulling 25 amps and it read almost 200 degrees! I couldn't keep my hand on it. Also, main breaker was 145...
I've done the conversion to the new shift assembly.
Also saw a YouTube video on how to change the cable and bellows without removing toe drive , looks like a good way to do it.
Anyone replaced their shore power inlet on the boat side?
Question, can you just remove the 4 screws and pull the wiring out or do you need to access it from behind?
If from behind, how did you access it?
I may need to replace mine, I think someone was on my boat and tripped over the cord and...
What void are you referring to?
Transom should be solid plywood about 2 inches thick.
Depending on where you bolted it on, you may be at the top of the core, the bumped out portion of the transom. Stock unit was bolted above the core on mine. They just folded the chopper glass over the top...
Those struts are just stainless rail tubing , flattend and bent with 2 hoes on each end. I replaced mine as they were corroded. Its a pretty easy DIY job, most expense is the tubing and a good drill bit. About 10 bucks.