New (to me) 2011 Sundeck 260, fresh to saltwater help needed.

C

Chris Lovlecae

Member
Sep 24, 2022
85
Boat Info
2011 Sea Ray Sundeck 260
Engines
350 MAG/Bravo III
Long time boater, first time boat owner! Boat is a 2011 Sundeck 260 with 195 hours on a Mercruiser 350 MAG turning a Bravo 3 outdrive.

I purchased a 260SD that was kept in fresh water but will be used in brackish water in the Potomac and Patuxent rivers aorund Chesapeake Bay. I'm looking for some advice:

1. Should I add a FWC system to insulate the engine from saltwater? The local mechanic said it's really not needed as long as I flush after each use. I read somewhere that the closed loop cooling systems allow for more consistent performance as well as protection from the salt. This seems like a decent insurance policy and is something I can do myself (I'm handy enough to do most maintenance tasks). Can someone recomend a good FWC kit for a 2011 timeframe 350 MAG? All the kits I've found seem to fit the older style straight manifolds and risers but my engine has a more curved affair that seems common on the newer engines.

2. I've read about the bennefits of Salt-Away and other like products. Is there anything else that people with these types of boats can recommend to help prevent saltwater corosion? What are the trouble spots that require a bit more attention?

3. The bow hatch the covers the ladder/anchor has a small crack in it. I was hoping to buy a replacement hatch but don't know what to look for or who to ask. It's not really that big of deal but pains the perfection istic side of me.

4. The swim platform decking is sort of pealing up. It'll be fine for now but will the standard swim platform decking pattern for a 240 SD (2010 and newer) fit a 260? I think they are basically the same but there lots of info on 240s but not on 260s.

5. Is it hard to do-it-yourself install a wakeboard tower? Kids are begging for one and I'm having trouble finding a marina (or whomever) to do the work.

I have a seemingly endless stream of questions but will stop at 5. I plan on upgrading older stuff during every off season and will happily share my experiences.

Thanks for any help! Have a great day.
 
Welcome to the site!

I've seen FWC conversion kits for $1500 - $2000. Only you can decide if it's worth it. If you trailer the boat, you could hook up muffs to the drive and flush it that way (just water or add a salt-away type) when you pull it out of the water. If you keep it in the water, there's a few different options for flushing attachments where you hook up a garden to hose to flush it out -- with the engine running or not depending on the system.
 
I have done the FWC upgrade to my current boat and also my last boat. I tend to keep boats a long time so for me it's a good investment. My last boat was 20 years old when I sold it with original engines still running great! My current boat a 2010 twin 5.0 with catalytic converters came from freshwater so I had my mechanic upgrade it to closed cooling for my own piece of mind.
The idea of FWC vs. RWC is really a way to keep the cost down when they're selling boats but boats in saltwater IMO need closed cooling. I know people who have flush ports and they use them in the beginning but over time not so much.

The downside of upgrading to FWC is cost. You'll need the kit(includes a new ECM) and hose kit. I bought mine from Mercruiser and it was a little pricey but I have no regrets. I looked at boats around the same year as mine when we bought it two years ago that were in saltwater but RWC and I decided right there to buy a lake boat and add FWC as soon as I bought it just because of all the engine rust I could see on the engine.
 
The salinity in the bay is highly variable depending upon rainfall and flow through the bay system. This map offers a general idea of where the saltwater is and how concentrated the salinity is.

If you are keeping your boat in the water the salt in the motor will be a secondary concern behind marine growth on the hull and out drive. Storing the boat on a trailer or in a boatel at a marina will vastly simplify maintenance and increase longevity of the propulsion. Make sure you don’t have any carpet because it will quickly become absolutely disgusting and ruin. Save the carpet for freshwater.

If you do decide to keep the boat slipped and you decide to add bottom paint you will take a big hit in the value of the boat and it may be more difficult to sell if you want to move up or get out of boating.

74EF0B58-2741-408C-9DDA-BBF519EAF010.jpeg
 
I don't believe this was mentioned, but if the boat is to stay in salt or brackish water as opposed to fresh you may need to change the anodes to the proper metal type. They are not just "zinc" they can be Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium and the choice is dependent on the primary use environment. Protecting those Bravo 3s is a must as they are quite expensive to replace.

-Kevin
 
Chris Lovlecae said:
Long time boater, first time boat owner! Boat is a 2011 Sundeck 260 with 195 hours on a Mercruiser 350 MAG turning a Bravo 3 outdrive.

I purchased a 260SD that was kept in fresh water but will be used in brackish water in the Potomac and Patuxent rivers aorund Chesapeake Bay. I'm looking for some advice:

1. Should I add a FWC system to insulate the engine from saltwater? The local mechanic said it's really not needed as long as I flush after each use. I read somewhere that the closed loop cooling systems allow for more consistent performance as well as protection from the salt. This seems like a decent insurance policy and is something I can do myself (I'm handy enough to do most maintenance tasks). Can someone recomend a good FWC kit for a 2011 timeframe 350 MAG? All the kits I've found seem to fit the older style straight manifolds and risers but my engine has a more curved affair that seems common on the newer engines. Do the conversion, you won't regret it. Even in fresh water, I feel better about winterizing. If the process go wrong, all I have to replace is the heat exchanger instead of the motor.

2. I've read about the bennefits of Salt-Away and other like products. Is there anything else that people with these types of boats can recommend to help prevent saltwater corosion? What are the trouble spots that require a bit more attention?

3. The bow hatch the covers the ladder/anchor has a small crack in it. I was hoping to buy a replacement hatch but don't know what to look for or who to ask. It's not really that big of deal but pains the perfection istic side of me. Try Flounder Pounder or call Sea Ray customer service and ask for guidance.

4. The swim platform decking is sort of pealing up. It'll be fine for now but will the standard swim platform decking pattern for a 240 SD (2010 and newer) fit a 260? I think they are basically the same but there lots of info on 240s but not on 260s. Same boat, different numbering scheme. Is the platform delaminating or is there something like Sea Dek on the platform that is peeling?

5. Is it hard to do-it-yourself install a wakeboard tower? Kids are begging for one and I'm having trouble finding a marina (or whomever) to do the work. There have been members here that have done that DIY. I am surprised that a dealer wouldn't do that install. Marine Max would have done mine, but Sea Ray said they'd void the warranty if I didn't use their tower. Sea Ray's tower was $10K+ not including install. Call Sea Ray customer service to see what tower(s) were used on the boat from the factory, or at least where the fiberglass is beefed up to accommodate the installation of a tower.

I have a seemingly endless stream of questions but will stop at 5. I plan on upgrading older stuff during every off season and will happily share my experiences.

Thanks for any help! Have a great day.
Click to expand...
 
Phil S said:
Welcome to the site!

I've seen FWC conversion kits for $1500 - $2000. Only you can decide if it's worth it. If you trailer the boat, you could hook up muffs to the drive and flush it that way (just water or add a salt-away type) when you pull it out of the water. If you keep it in the water, there's a few different options for flushing attachments where you hook up a garden to hose to flush it out -- with the engine running or not depending on the system.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Phil! I was hoping for others experiences to help determine if the HX was worth the money and trouble. The boat will either be kept in a boatel or a lifted slip. I haven't made that decision yet.
 
blaster said:
The salinity in the bay is highly variable depending upon rainfall and flow through the bay system. This map offers a general idea of where the saltwater is and how concentrated the salinity is.

If you are keeping your boat in the water the salt in the motor will be a secondary concern behind marine growth on the hull and out drive. Storing the boat on a trailer or in a boatel at a marina will vastly simplify maintenance and increase longevity of the propulsion. Make sure you don’t have any carpet because it will quickly become absolutely disgusting and ruin. Save the carpet for freshwater.

If you do decide to keep the boat slipped and you decide to add bottom paint you will take a big hit in the value of the boat and it may be more difficult to sell if you want to move up or get out of boating.

View attachment 134968
Click to expand...
Whao! This chart is awesome! Thanks! Plan is to keep in a boatel or lifted slip (both really close to my house).
 
KevinC said:
I don't believe this was mentioned, but if the boat is to stay in salt or brackish water as opposed to fresh you may need to change the anodes to the proper metal type. They are not just "zinc" they can be Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium and the choice is dependent on the primary use environment. Protecting those Bravo 3s is a must as they are quite expensive to replace.

-Kevin
Click to expand...
Thanks, Kevin! I will ask which anode material is preferred for local bay boats. I was researching cost but didn't think about the particular composition of the anodes. I know the lower unit has them as well as the trim tabs.
 
Thanks for the reply, Tim!

Based on what you've said and others I'm getting the HX and will install it over the winter. I'll post if I blow something up but install seems somewhat tedious but very doable for me. Kind of an unbolt this and bolt on that sort of thing where everything has it's own place and I should have nothing left over except the parts that were replaced. The engine compartment is very spacious compared to the 1983 Sea Ray my day had so hopefully I can get to everything I need to. I contacted Mr. Cool (not Mercruiser but seems to get good reviews) to see if any of their kits will fit my engine's configuration. My only concern is the manifolds and risers are different than what's pictured on the Mr. Cool website.

upload_2022-10-6_18-14-49.png

What I found pictured for HX compatibility...

Mine look like this...
upload_2022-10-6_18-23-51.png


I'm sure it's a simple answer but since I'm new to this I'm ignorant to the particulars.

The rubberized decking that looks factory...it maybe original...is peeling up off the swim platform fiberglass. Not too bad and will certainly be fine for a few years but if I can find an easy replacement for them, I'm willing to risk the tennis elbow to peal and scrape the old stuff off and glue on the new stuff. From few feet away it's hard to tell it's pealing but obvious up close. So if I buy precut to a 2010-ish 240 Sundeck they should fit in the factory spots on the 260 swim platform?

There is a Sea Ray dealership near by that I'm asking but they've been...flakey about installing a wakeboard tower. I will continue to pursue it. My boat is well past it's warranty so I'm not worried about that. I figured I'd want more practiced hands (plus the right tools) drilling into my gelcoat. I usually screw stuff up the first time around and I don't want to mess this up.
 
Just get in touch with a Sea Dek dealer. Chances are they will have a template, Sea Ray sold a ton of the 240/260 models. If not making a template is simple.

A buddy of mine has a 2016 Chaparral that has Sea Dek. It's great in the cockpit, but his swim platform has been an issue from almost day one. It was replaced 4 times under warranty. This summer it started to peel on the edges, so he re-glued the edges with 3M 5200. Then it started to bubble in the center. He took an arts & crafts type razor blade and a small incision at the center of the bubble. Then injected glue (not sure what he used for that) into the incision and put a brick on the bubble after the glue was injected. It was a self sealing repair. Looks like new, but it's temporary. If he keeps the boat he's going to change everything over to snap-in Infinity flooring that I got from a member here
 
Chris Lovlecae said:
Thanks, Kevin! I will ask which anode material is preferred for local bay boats. I was researching cost but didn't think about the particular composition of the anodes. I know the lower unit has them as well as the trim tabs.
Click to expand...

Check out boatzincs.com they have lots of great info in anode selection as well as great prices.

-Kevin
 
KevinC said:
Check out boatzincs.com they have lots of great info in anode selection as well as great prices.

-Kevin
Click to expand...
Awesome! Thanks! That was a very informative website! At least the anodes aren't that expensive...
 
I had the issue with Seadek peeling on the edges. It's unfortunate because, other than that issue, I loved the product.

Just FYI, I used gorilla glue to re-glue it and because of the contours in the deck I used a 40lb bag of sand to hold pressure while drying. It conformed well with the curves.
 
Did the gorilla glue do a better job of keeping the corners down?
 
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