Anyone use never seize on anodes

Kind of defeats the purpose. The anode must make contact with the metal and usually it is the stainless allen head that does all of the contact. Although sanding around the area so it all makes contact is a better use of the anode.
 
So if you are on top of them and don’t go beyond say 3 years max in freshwater you can expect the screws to back out ok?
 
I use a bit of Rectorseal No 5 (yellow) on the engine anodes. The threads make contact with the engine fittings to make an electrical connection. Also change them annually or more.
 
I had a terrible time removing some of the anodes from my SidePower thruster. The prior owner had never changed them and they had seized against the composite props. After drilling them out and having to replace the props I used some Alco Metalube on all the mating surfaces to prevent a repeat.
 
b_arrington said:
I had a terrible time removing some of the anodes from my SidePower thruster. The prior owner had never changed them and they had seized against the composite props. After drilling them out and having to replace the props I used some Alco Metalube on all the mating surfaces to prevent a repeat.
Click to expand...

Brad, what is the purpose of using anodes on composite props?
 
SKybolt said:
Brad, what is the purpose of using anodes on composite props?
Click to expand...
The thruster drive leg and other parts are metal. The anodes protect that. The anode screw goes through the prop hub into the drive shaft.

upload_2022-11-29_15-29-48.jpeg


upload_2022-11-29_15-30-41.jpeg
 
Regarding engine anodes/pencil zincs and the needless hassle of changing them, there is a new version of anode available (REDZn Engine Anodes) that solves the problems of broken/stuck zincs - just turn the wrench and out they come every time. They've been a joy for me to use, but in addition to being a user, I'm also the designer so won't pontificate in the forum. Happy to answer any questions off-line or respond here if people wanted some more info.

There is some good info at sbmar.com about the use of thread sealants/goop on threaded connections for zincs. I prefer not to use it by default, but according to their experiments it works fine on the external threads. The Rectorseal on the internal threads is probably fine too - just verify continuity

The Myths & Realities of Using Pipe Dope on Threads - Seaboard Marine (sbmar.com)
 
CapeNIslands said:
Regarding engine anodes/pencil zincs and the needless hassle of changing them, there is a new version of anode available (REDZn Engine Anodes) that solves the problems of broken/stuck zincs - just turn the wrench and out they come every time. They've been a joy for me to use, but in addition to being a user, I'm also the designer so won't pontificate in the forum. Happy to answer any questions off-line or respond here if people wanted some more info.

There is some good info at sbmar.com about the use of thread sealants/goop on threaded connections for zincs. I prefer not to use it by default, but according to their experiments it works fine on the external threads. The Rectorseal on the internal threads is probably fine too - just verify continuity

The Myths & Realities of Using Pipe Dope on Threads - Seaboard Marine (sbmar.com)
Click to expand...
Interesting, and welcome aboard CSR.
 
Appreciate the welcome. I signed up for the group to look some things up for my friends' 420 Sundancer, but was pleasantly surprised by the great knowledge and topics on the forum. I find myself checking in every day and haven't failed to read something interesting. My boat is actually a 40' Mainship Trawler - a great boat to sit on and watch all the Searay's fly by!

P.S. He uses those zincs on his 480 Cummins. The aftercooler on the starboard side is a tough location - way down by your toes in a painful boat yoga pose. They've been a huge help in that location.
 
There are some incorrect descriptions of the threads in the SBMAR info. << Warning tech info ahead >>

An NPT thread is not designed to be an complete interference fit thread. When "hand tight" the flanks of the thread make contact but the roots and the crests of the thread have clearance. When the thread is "wrench tight", the flanks compress but there still is clearance in the roots and crests of the threads. This can allow leakage of the fluid unless a sealant ("pipe dope or tape" is used. NPT threads are the most common threads used for pipe fittings.

However, there is a thread that can be used when sealing compounds are functionally objectionable, or fluid and gas pressures are high or NPT threads are unacceptable. The NPTF thread is typically used for high pressure type joints without the use of sealing compounds. The NPTF callout identifies the Dryseal American National Standard Pipe Thread Series.

The thread form is the same as an NPT with a 3/4" per foot or 1/16" per inch taper on the diameter. The difference is the amount of crest and root truncation.

When an NPTF thread is "hand tight" the root and crest meet and create an interference. When the NPTF thread is "wrench tight", the root and crests are crushed and the flanks now compress. This creates a dry seal without the use of pipe dope or teflon tape.

Review the slides below...

I've been a threading application engineer for over 35 years and I am currently the National Sales Manager for Regal Cutting Tools, where we manufacture taps.



NPT Thread
upload_2022-12-2_9-56-12.png


NPT Average thread condition
upload_2022-12-2_9-57-11.png


NPTF Thread form
upload_2022-12-2_9-58-15.png


NPTF Thread is use
upload_2022-12-2_9-59-3.png


NPTF Thread in use #2
upload_2022-12-2_10-0-3.png
 
I've seen the NPT vs NPTF distinction before, but those graphics do a great job of depicting the two. Thanks for posting them. When I first found out the plug/cooler threads were NPT I thought that it was a mistake, but several manufacturers confirmed NPT was indeed used and we've all seen on our boats that healthy NPT threads 'self-seal' in the application of marine heat exchanger anodes. What do you think accounts for that Steve? Do you think higher pressure conditions would cause these threads to leak? I've seen a good amount of zincs on motors over the last few years and virtually none require sealant to be water tight. Most professionals (boat yards) pretty strongly recommend 'no sealant', but as long as continuity is maintained it certainly doesn't hurt anything.
 
CapeNIslands said:
I've seen the NPT vs NPTF distinction before, but those graphics do a great job of depicting the two. Thanks for posting them. When I first found out the plug/cooler threads were NPT I thought that it was a mistake, but several manufacturers confirmed NPT was indeed used and we've all seen on our boats that healthy NPT threads 'self-seal' in the application of marine heat exchanger anodes. What do you think accounts for that Steve? Do you think higher pressure conditions would cause these threads to leak? I've seen a good amount of zincs on motors over the last few years and virtually none require sealant to be water tight. Most professionals (boat yards) pretty strongly recommend 'no sealant', but as long as continuity is maintained it certainly doesn't hurt anything.
Click to expand...
I would have to ask if it is a function of the thread or is it a function of the step/shoulder design mating and the thread pulling it tight enough to seal? I don't think the cooling system is under that high of a pressure. It has high volume but I do not think the actual pressure is that high.

By the way - one reason NPTF caps are probably not used is that they are only an NPTF thread once. One they are crushed they effectively become an NPT thread.
 
I use Loctite LB-8008 C5-A thread lubricant anti-seize. It is copper and graphite based and electrically conductive; essential for anodes.
On the other hand, where I need galvanic separation I use Loctite LB-8023 on the fasteners.
 
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