410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

I'm more asking about draft in the harbor with props spinning. Agree with you 100% at anchor.

oh gotcha. Agreed with above, 4’ minimum as long as I know it’s not rocky. Those are uncomfortable passages though
 
What do you all consider a "safe" draft for your boats? I know the spec draft is 3' 6", but how close would you be comfortable cutting it for your channel and slip?
Depends on your local conditions. When we were in the Tampa area, 4’ was what I needed and 6-7 ft was “deep”. Getting into Caladesi Island showed 4’ on the depth gauge crossing a bar and that was high tide. We still kicked up some sand. Here in the lake I like 5-6 to show on the depth gauge.
 
Getting closer to launch time!
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In good old Lake St. Clair which is 100% mud/clay/sand we regularly idle into spots with the sounder readin 2.5 ft. That is 2.5 ft below the transducer location in the hull. We occasionally kick up some mud but no issues.
 
In good old Lake St. Clair which is 100% mud/clay/sand we regularly idle into spots with the sounder readin 2.5 ft. That is 2.5 ft below the transducer location in the hull. We occasionally kick up some mud but no issues.

great point, I assumed we were all asking about true depth. I try to make sure I have 2’ below the transducer which is near the keel of the hull. Some folks prefer to use the offset to display true depth but I prefer depth under the boat
 
You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.
 
great point, I assumed we were all asking about true depth. I try to make sure I have 2’ below the transducer which is near the keel of the hull. Some folks prefer to use the offset to display true depth but I prefer depth under the boat
Yes, I was asking about true depth.
 
You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.
I run 22 knots in less than that almost every time out. I'm rarely accused of sanity.
 
You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.

If all I was used to is deep water channels, then I too would not be comfortable seeing less than 6’. But if you run your boat in areas like the Great South Bay (the “sandbox”) in Long Island, NY, Southeast Florida, and the Florida keys, you quickly get used to seeing less than 6’ under your keel. 4’ under your keel is a feeling of comfort in these places.
 
Repaired the underwater exhaust tubes before launch this year. I have been trying to track down water in the bilge and finally discovered it was coming from the exhaust where it is attached to the hull. Before and after pics attached.
 

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Repaired the underwater exhaust tubes before launch this year. I have been trying to track down water in the bilge and finally discovered it was coming from the exhaust where it is attached to the hull. Before and after pics attached.

I am trying to understand this. Are those exhaust pipes adhered to the fiberglass hull, and those cracks are the exhaust separating from the fiberglass? Are those fiberglass exhaust pipes? I guess with a solid fiberglass hull, this just means water getting into the bilge? But if your hull was cored, you would have a wet hull? Do I understand this correctly?
 
You are correct. These are the underwater exhaust pipes that go through the hull after the mufflers. Pictures are without the bronze elbows attached. It is possible that if the hull were cored it would have most likely soaked into the coring. My hull us 100% fiberglass on the hull bottom so no damage from the leaking.
 
You are correct. These are the underwater exhaust pipes that go through the hull after the mufflers. Pictures are without the bronze elbows attached. It is possible that if the hull were cored it would have most likely soaked into the coring. My hull us 100% fiberglass on the hull bottom so no damage from the leaking.

Always looking to expand my knowledge, especially on my boat. Thank you!
 
I am trying to understand this. Are those exhaust pipes adhered to the fiberglass hull, and those cracks are the exhaust separating from the fiberglass? Are those fiberglass exhaust pipes? I guess with a solid fiberglass hull, this just means water getting into the bilge? But if your hull was cored, you would have a wet hull? Do I understand this correctly?
You are correct. These are the underwater exhaust pipes that go through the hull after the mufflers. Pictures are without the bronze elbows attached. It is possible that if the hull were cored it would have most likely soaked into the coring. My hull us 100% fiberglass on the hull bottom so no damage from the leaking.
When they manufacture the boats and cut penetrations like for the exhaust or shaft logs, they layup the glass on the inside and outside. When that glass is done it looks rough, really rough. What they do then is fair in in with an epoxy to smooth out the surfaces. Those cracks are the faring that is separating. You'll see the same on the shaft logs. I first saw that on my shaft logs and freaked out thinking the logs are coming out of the boat - the girls that take care of the gelcoat and bottom paint got in there and chiseled it all out then re-faired the area - big chunks of epoxy fell out. It was SOP for them.
 
You guys are nuts! For me the pucker factor is off the charts with anything less than 6' under the boat.

Don't bring the boat over here to Lake St. Clair, you might have to buy a new helm seat..:eek::eek::eek:
If our boats sink we just stand on top of them till the coast guard gets there...:D:D:D
 
haha I know. Even with my tiny 1/8” straight cut bit it was an insane mess

looking forward to seeing Johnny corners on those hatches, I really liked it on our old boat

I had my floors done last season. Two issues that I need to fix:
1) How did you address the height of the hatch after removing the carpet? The installer used slices of peel and stick floor tiles to build it up to the height of the floor. IMO not the best solution.
2) I did not use any trim and the gap is about 1/8 around. Looks great but the problem is the hatches "float" around in the hole. After running I have zero gap in back and 1/4" on the other side. I thought I could fix the floating issue by adding blocks on the underside of the hatch to center it but I took a closer look and I don't think that will work.
 

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