My macerator is froze up and it’s looking like a rebuild job. I have one question though. Do I need to pump out before pulling the unit for rebuild?
Macerator Rebuild
- Thread starter dwna1a
- Start date
"Most" Sea Rays use a transfer pump (not a macerator) and a top mount draw tube. But seeing it's an '88 there's certainly variables at play that could dictate an answer.
How is it plumbed (most important)? Is it a macerator or a transfer pump?
EDIT: Meant to say "most relatively newer" Sea Rays (at least in the smaller size range).
How is it plumbed (most important)? Is it a macerator or a transfer pump?
EDIT: Meant to say "most relatively newer" Sea Rays (at least in the smaller size range).
Nater Potater
Well-Known Member
- Oct 19, 2020
- 2,646
- Boat Info
- 1992 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin Merc Alpha I Gen II I/O's with 5.7 V8's
My '92 Sundancer has a diaphragm pump very much like the vacuum generator. Now, I'm not sure it's stock, but it pulls from the bottom of the tank, so it needs to be as dry as possible before pulling the pump. If on a trailer, let the tongue jack down all the way. And, have the shop vac close by as you disconnect fittings. I was able to pull the plunger out of the top before removing the body from the plumbing. That gave me a couple inches extra vertical rise that I could pump out with the shop vac before pulling the body.
jgoedd99
Active Member
Mine is plumbed like Nater's also, so yes empty tank before working on. AND the inlet and outlet fittings on the pump in my 370 DA were reverse threads (Righty - loosey, lefty - tightey). This stumped me for a while and caused much anguish for me before i figured it out.
I’m going to try again today to see if I can get it to free up. It is a macerator but I can’t remember the hose set up. No matter what it will have to be pulled and rebuilt. Something has it jammed up
A true "macerator" is a bit simpler than a transfer pump - in some ways, anyways. You really just have a motor and an impeller. Pretty easy to figure out.
If it's pumbed to the top of the tank, then you don't need a pump-out.
Try some gentle to medium whacks with a hammer on the motor while also having it turned on.
Pirate Lady
Well-Known Member
Ive become an expert over the years fixing macerators. #1 cause is tampons.
Some questions for i waste (Ha! Waste, get it!) your time.
Is it portapotti? Is the mascerator in bath cabinet or bilge?
Guessing its portapotti, cabinet being its an 88.
Some questions for i waste (Ha! Waste, get it!) your time.
Is it portapotti? Is the mascerator in bath cabinet or bilge?
Guessing its portapotti, cabinet being its an 88.
Nater Potater
Well-Known Member
- Oct 19, 2020
- 2,646
- Boat Info
- 1992 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin Merc Alpha I Gen II I/O's with 5.7 V8's
Oh, yeah; I forgot about that. I was on the verge of destroying one of the fittings before trying it the other direction. What the heck? Are these pumps made down below the equator?
Im going to trace the lines and give it a whack or two tomorrow morning. Right now I can’t get it to move in any direction. Putting power to the motor just blows the fuse. The line going out needs to be replaced. It looks to be a section of old fuel filler line.
P.Lady, it a Vacuflush system. The pump is in the bilge, in a pain in the ass spot. Just behind the gray water tank and next to the vacuum pump. I have to get behind the genset and crawl over there.
It’s the rudder post and tie arm that get me tho.
It’s a three year old Jabsco pump. I have a feeling one of my girls used a baby wipe and flushed it. I guess we will see soon enough.
Nater Potater
Well-Known Member
- Oct 19, 2020
- 2,646
- Boat Info
- 1992 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin Merc Alpha I Gen II I/O's with 5.7 V8's
If your Jabsco is this style of macerator, then it's a two-stage, with what looks like a tiny garbage disposal blade at the inlet, backed by a rubber impeller very much like our fresh-water pumps.
If you have the room and/or enough flex in the inlet line, you should be able to pull the inlet off by taking off the four acorn nuts. Once there, the baby wipe should be easily removed. Don't forget your rubber gloves and clothespin.
Oh, and, once it's apart, you can verify that the blockage was what was causing the fuse to blow. It should run with a minimum current draw with the impeller out in the open.
If you have the room and/or enough flex in the inlet line, you should be able to pull the inlet off by taking off the four acorn nuts. Once there, the baby wipe should be easily removed. Don't forget your rubber gloves and clothespin.
Oh, and, once it's apart, you can verify that the blockage was what was causing the fuse to blow. It should run with a minimum current draw with the impeller out in the open.
jgoedd99
Active Member
Yeah i chewed mine up pretty good but they were still serviceable. I wrote on both of the fittings with a Sharpie "Reverse Threads" so next time i will see it and remember.
Pirate Lady
Well-Known Member
When you remove the hoses, pack a few bath towels below it. Shit water will run out the hoses and cause quiet a mess.
When raising kids on the boats i often had to clear it, sometimes multiple times in a week, got real fast at it.
When raising kids on the boats i often had to clear it, sometimes multiple times in a week, got real fast at it.
Once I get it out and pulled apart I will take some photos. Maybe it will teach new boaters what can or can’t be flushed.
I don't think you're allowed to post dirty photos on this site....
Tapping the housing worked sorta. The motor freed up and spun but froze right back up. I pulled the pump, three of the six impeller veins were missing, two were jammed up in the wear plate
