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Had same issue - turned out to be the steering tiller arms were toast. The pins being stainless were fine. The square in the tiller arms were more like oval. Had 9 inches of drive slop with 3/4 of a turn in the steering wheel. My steering was hard from the day I bought the boat and the...

45Gunner - So Sorry to heara about your health issues. Can you send me some pics and additional info. My email is: kjklear1984@printingpressinc.com Prayers for your Health to take the correct path. Thanks, Korlie

Sent you a PM

Hi Ryan - Yes they are.

+1 on Scoflaw - The same goes with fuel pumps. When they get hot they do not work as they vaporize the fuel. Checking the fuel cooler costs nothing and rue that part of it out. I do agree ruling things out such as fuel issue or spark issue is the way to go. This is part of ruling out the...

Not real familiar with '99 7.4 454s. Fresh or salt water cooled? Do you have an isolated fuel cooler? Why I ask - BIL had a motor that did similar. Although it was a Volvo with duoprop drive. They changed out everything - fuel filter, pump, fuel in tank, fuel lines, even cut the tank out...

MY gauges were analog only, not SC1000. We had the SC5000 component that we upgraded to the VV703. That was that part that was not plug n play. Good to hear your gauges went well.

We did the VV703 uprade along with a bunch of other upgrades 2 seasons ago. Removed all SmartCraft instruments. Installed NEMA2000 network, Took out stock speedometer and replaced with MFD20, removed SC5000 and installed VV703, Added Garmin AP, Added new VHF. All of these things were tied to...

Also check the connections to the 4 relays on top of motor. One does the fuel pump for sure, and I think one of the others control the power to the coils. Not sure if this could be it, but worth a check. I believe they are all the same relay so interchangable. Maybe just not plugged in tight.

Mysterious oil disappearannce is most likely the seal(s) on the prop shaft. Don't let it go to long as water will eventually get in and that can be expensive.

+1 on the Sailrite tool. Easy to repair snaps right on the boat without removing the canvas. No need to mske hole as it is self piercing. Put a safety strap on mine so it does end up overboard. Get the Snaps from Sailrite. They have stainess and black. They also have them for thicker material.

Hense - Check downstream for blockage (impeller pieces and also debries) and check upstream for collapse (Bravo-itis) Without pressures its hard to tell which way to look. If pressures are high - upstream blockage / Low - poor supply (preload) usually due to blockage from bravo-itis or as...

Hard to tell with out knowing pressures. Are you fresh or raw water cooled? If fresh water cooled, would inspect the heat exchanger for blockage, and consider manifolds. If raw or fresh water cooled I would suspect bravo-itis. This is when the hose that comes from the outdrive at the point...

No break in period to my knowledge. Are you sure it was the raw water pump that was causing the squeaking? What is your water pressure at idle, 1250 rpms and 3000 rpms?

What plug wires are any of you running on the 496 Mag engines with Br III drives. I have been running the Volvo Wire sets and they just don't seem to be lasting.

We changed over to Garmin from original Raymarine. Put a 7610 in place of the Raymarine GPS, removed the worthless speedometer, added Garmin MFD display, N2000 network, Garmin Reactor AP and SeaStar Hydrolic steering. Absoutely wonderful system. Even has a remote for the AP.

Did you consider the thermostat may be getting stuck?

I have 2 engine hatch actuators from my 2006 340 for sale. I replaced mine with new due to fracturing the bottom mounting point while pulling motors changing out transom assemblies. Couldn't find any so had the fractured one repaired while awaiting the marina to replace the one they broke...

Most likely if you have that much slop sde to side, the tiller arm worn and hardwear rusted to the point it will not budge.

I did the JRMarine kits on our 340. Lasted 2 seasons and started leaking again. You need to do the full transom assemblies. The side to side is from the steering pin tiller arm being worn out. It is a square fitting on the tiller arm that fits over a square top part of the steering pin...