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So as long as it's running well I don't have to worry about the subtle position of the distributor? Or should I get the timing light out and get it set to #1 TDC (I would just turn it until the strobe has the lines aligned pulley to block?). Just to get the terminology correct, that would be...

Hey BT this is the motor that you replaced the head on. I remember you were able to turn the distributor as well. It's always been moveable as long as I've owned the boat. She ran great today just want to make sure it's right. I have a timing strobe I'll have to figure out how to tune it. Then I...

(Sea Ray 220 2003 with 5.0 MPI) So I can move my distributor around its axis about 5 degrees in either direction. I had a stalling problem (ended up being the IAC) but trying to start the boat again I was fiddling with the distributor. Now the boat works well. But not until I "retuned" the...

I didn't replace the muffler because I didn't buy one. I'll order that on line and install it soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll add more keywords. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I fixed it. It was way easier than I expected. Literally did it one handed in 10 minutes. I shot a video to add to the collective knowledge of the world as that one video we found wasn't that informative. https://youtu.be/ROOlvjx38BU Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone know where near the north Jersey Shore I could find a part today?

I'm going to find this part today. Hopefully install it tomorrow.

I will say that the boat this whole year has always needed a little extra middle button pushed throttle to start up, but then it would idle.

Please elaborate :-) !. (I will google too). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

SO my 2003 220 with the 305 ci (5.0L MPI) motor all of a sudden wont idle. SO I've been using it all summer no problem at all. Starts and runs fine. Then I'm in the water at the end of a tow rope skis on after a few miles back and forth yesterday tubing and skiing (nothing harsh at all). And I...

Here is my "temporary" fix. I put a five eights inch steel threaded rod through the new joint and epoxied it inside and out. It's pretty solid but not pretty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like the hose idea, I was going to run to Home Depot and go get some two part epoxy putty to try to get it back together. I was going to Dremel some grooves to make the putty stick better. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is my temp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So pulling out of my slip I caught the anchor of another boat and it snapped the rear vertical strut of my Bimini frame. Is this a part that is available to purchase somewhere? I also considered finding a welder to weld it back together. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I guess I expected more deflection of the tabs into the water. No doubt when they are down fully the bow doesn't rise up at all when getting on plane. My mechanic sent me photos he took on land. Maybe they are pretty parallel up and sticking my arm under the boat while swimming isn't a good...

Ah, ok. I just have to think about the boat and not the tab I want to move. Fully deployed down how many degrees should the tab be below parallel to the bottom? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Soooo...... The boat is in the water and the trim tabs are on. I did not have an opportunity to check them out on land. They really seemed to keep the bow down when fully trimmed coming on plane. But using one vs. the other was confusing me. When we stopped for a swim I checked them out under...

Actuators are on their way back to you for the swap. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk