1999 454 Mag MPI just quits - videos

370Dancer said:
Well, I'll say it, and let's see what this opens up. When I removed the old engine (and the pair before this), I left the transmission and bell housing intact in the boat. When I reinstalled the new engine, I lined up the transmission shaft spline into the damper, backed the engine into the bell housing, and lowered the front of the engine back onto the motor mounts, which were also left in the boat untouched. the 3 bolt holes on each motor mount lined up good enough with the block to hand screw the bolts all the way in. In my mind, I have not messed with the shaft alignment at all.
Example of what I'm saying in post 131.
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...-just-quits-videos.101750/page-7#post-1275126
Click to expand...

Been doing that in cars and trucks since day 1
 
Started to spin up the oil yesterday, and discovered a 1/4" threaded hole in the block, low and near where the oil cooler is, but on the side. Needless to say, big mess until we stopped the bleeding. Thought I had 'em all covered, but my original block doesn't have that port on it. Ugh. Trying again today.
 
Just saying it doesn’t take much to change the shaft alignment doing this many changes. You’re talking less than .015 movement.
Easier now then having vibration or shaft issues later.
 
IMG_5952.jpeg
Noted. These are 5000 vDrives so the coupler is a bit more accessible, but fairly tight space between it and the bulkhead. Meanwhile the intake gasket end pieces twisted out during torque sequence yesterday. Didn’t see it til this am, so intake back off, clean up and either epoxy in the new ones, or throw em away and put a fat bead of RTV on each end instead. What’s your vote? New port gaskets for the heads too, of course.
 
370Dancer said:
View attachment 143922 Noted. These are 5000 vDrives so the coupler is a bit more accessible, but fairly tight space between it and the bulkhead. Meanwhile the intake gasket end pieces twisted out during torque sequence yesterday. Didn’t see it til this am, so intake back off, clean up and either epoxy in the new ones, or throw em away and put a fat bead of RTV on each end instead. What’s your vote? New port gaskets for the heads too, of course.
Click to expand...

Don't waste your time with end gaskets. They actually work against a tight seal on the intake seal to the heads.
 
Fiddling around with trying to pre-oil up through the pushrods with spotty luck.
First that POS drill tool advertised for all GM blocks. Bullshit. Saw the oil running out of the hole in the valley where the distributor goes. Measured my old distributor and the “tool” is 35 thousands under. Grabbed an old distributor and cut the cam gear off.

“Tool”: 12psi, oil coming out of some, but not all on #1 side (5 of 8). Only a couple on the even side. Hmmm
Switch to my old distributor and oil pressure shoots to 30 psi, but same rockers are dripping. No better. This is while spinning for 30 seconds, hand turning crank 90 degrees, then repeat. I’ve been around #1 TDC at least 3 times. Now, I’m thinking it’s time to loosen the offending rockers and repeat. No zero lash setting per se. crank em to 40 or 45 lbs (I forget) and move on. Any sage advice on what to look at? Intake is on tight now. I didn’t do the timing chain and cam so I can’t vouch for valley plugs. But, the guy who did it is Innovation Marine, building go fast monsters every day of the week.
I am turning it with a cordless drill, with high capacity batteries on it.
Should I just bathe the rockers with oil and button it up? Makes me nervous.
 
370Dancer said:
Fiddling around with trying to pre-oil up through the pushrods with spotty luck.
First that POS drill tool advertised for all GM blocks. Bullshit. Saw the oil running out of the hole in the valley where the distributor goes. Measured my old distributor and the “tool” is 35 thousands under. Grabbed an old distributor and cut the cam gear off.

“Tool”: 12psi, oil coming out of some, but not all on #1 side (5 of 8). Only a couple on the even side. Hmmm
Switch to my old distributor and oil pressure shoots to 30 psi, but same rockers are dripping. No better. This is while spinning for 30 seconds, hand turning crank 90 degrees, then repeat. I’ve been around #1 TDC at least 3 times. Now, I’m thinking it’s time to loosen the offending rockers and repeat. No zero lash setting per se. crank em to 40 or 45 lbs (I forget) and move on. Any sage advice on what to look at? Intake is on tight now. I didn’t do the timing chain and cam so I can’t vouch for valley plugs. But, the guy who did it is Innovation Marine, building go fast monsters every day of the week.
I am turning it with a cordless drill, with high capacity batteries on it.
Should I just bathe the rockers with oil and button it up? Makes me nervous.
Click to expand...

Give Innovation Marine a call and tell them what you see. They are a first rate, high end shop and know what oil pump they put in your engine and the tolerances it has.

From my perspective.....you should have seen oil on all the rockers by turning the crank and spinning the oil pump. They may tell you to put a corded drill on it and spin the shaft to 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. Battery drills are about half that speed.
 
370Dancer said:
View attachment 143922 Noted. These are 5000 vDrives so the coupler is a bit more accessible, but fairly tight space between it and the bulkhead. Meanwhile the intake gasket end pieces twisted out during torque sequence yesterday. Didn’t see it til this am, so intake back off, clean up and either epoxy in the new ones, or throw em away and put a fat bead of RTV on each end instead. What’s your vote? New port gaskets for the heads too, of course.
Click to expand...
First, those surfaces must be squeaky clean before putting together. Nothing will adhere to them if oil is there; I use lacquer thinner and clean rag for the final cleaning.
Use Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker on those end locations rather than the rubber/cork gaskets.
Oh and you'll never seal it by trying to squirt something into it - Removing the intake is the only way.
 
370Dancer said:
Fiddling around with trying to pre-oil up through the pushrods with spotty luck.
First that POS drill tool advertised for all GM blocks. Bullshit. Saw the oil running out of the hole in the valley where the distributor goes. Measured my old distributor and the “tool” is 35 thousands under. Grabbed an old distributor and cut the cam gear off.

“Tool”: 12psi, oil coming out of some, but not all on #1 side (5 of 8). Only a couple on the even side. Hmmm
Switch to my old distributor and oil pressure shoots to 30 psi, but same rockers are dripping. No better. This is while spinning for 30 seconds, hand turning crank 90 degrees, then repeat. I’ve been around #1 TDC at least 3 times. Now, I’m thinking it’s time to loosen the offending rockers and repeat. No zero lash setting per se. crank em to 40 or 45 lbs (I forget) and move on. Any sage advice on what to look at? Intake is on tight now. I didn’t do the timing chain and cam so I can’t vouch for valley plugs. But, the guy who did it is Innovation Marine, building go fast monsters every day of the week.
I am turning it with a cordless drill, with high capacity batteries on it.
Should I just bathe the rockers with oil and button it up? Makes me nervous.
Click to expand...

Electric drill is the only way. Even then, you're going to get minimal oil out of the push rods. If you used enough assembly lube, take some oil and splash it on the rockers and go fire it up. The engine gets oil pressure immediately and you'll be fine.
 
ttmott said:
First, those surfaces must be squeaky clean before putting together. Nothing will adhere to them if oil is there; I use lacquer thinner and clean rag for the final cleaning.
Use Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker on those end locations rather than the rubber/cork gaskets.
Oh and you'll never seal it by trying to squirt something into it - Removing the intake is the only way.
Click to expand...
yeah, I treated the end gaskets in the 2nd set like Tofu. Throw it in the garbage and grill a steak.
All good on this, now trying to get it pre-oiled before I tackle the last 100 parts to bolt on.
 
Wow man that's a lot of parts. I hope it all goes well for you. I really mean that
 
Fuel injectors are on. Here's a tip that I use when hooking the injector harness back up to the injectors, in case you didn't mark em, or the marking fell off because it's been over a year........
Looking at the schematic, you can see that there is a green bank and a blue bank. The sequence on the engine is as follows:
1= G, 3 = B, 5 = B, 7 = G
2 = B, 4 = G, 6 = G, 8 = B
or GBBG-BGGB going around the engine starting at cylinder 1
Most of the harness lengths are obvious, but around 2 and 4, not so much.
GBBG-BGGB wiring diagrm.PNG
GBBG-BGGB sequence.jpeg


In case you missed it, a long time ago, I extended the fuel rail pressure port so I could get to it to bleed the vapor on really hot no start days, and to install a full time pressure monitor sensor (feeds a gauge at the helm).

fuel pressure mod.jpeg


So, overall, making headway. Life is kicking me in the arse big time, though. More about that someday.

injectors on.jpeg
 
I need to extend mine, I didn’t look at doing that much to do it, I was thinking a short nipple and 45 degree bend would extend the schrader valve, but it’s been 4 years since I looked at it and I don’t recall it more than a guess… when I have another issue, I will have to dig in.

Thank you for the update, we are looking forward to this firing up, ALMOST as much as you are. Good luck!
370Dancer said:
Fuel injectors are on. Here's a tip that I use when hooking the injector harness back up to the injectors, in case you didn't mark em, or the marking fell off because it's been over a year........
Looking at the schematic, you can see that there is a green bank and a blue bank. The sequence on the engine is as follows:
1= G, 3 = B, 5 = B, 7 = G
2 = B, 4 = G, 6 = G, 8 = B
or GBBG-BGGB going around the engine starting at cylinder 1
Most of the harness lengths are obvious, but around 2 and 4, not so much.
View attachment 144673 View attachment 144674

In case you missed it, a long time ago, I extended the fuel rail pressure port so I could get to it to bleed the vapor on really hot no start days, and to install a full time pressure monitor sensor (feeds a gauge at the helm).

View attachment 144675

So, overall, making headway. Life is kicking me in the arse big time, though. More about that someday.

View attachment 144677
Click to expand...
 
I have these parts leftover. Do you think I'll need them?
leftover parts.jpeg


Almost got done, but I have run out of time. Have to attend to some personal health stuff, which is going to knock the bejeezus out of 2023 in general. Hopefully, I'll have some good days where I can climb in and finish this thing off.
almost1.jpeg
almost3.jpeg
missing plenum.jpeg
 

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That looks like you have maybe 4-6 hours of work left ....assuming all the hoses are hooked up. If you need an extra pair of hands......let me know. Health issues suck. Sometimes just having friends and working on something you enjoy is way better than any medicine or therapy.

You are only a few hours (by plane) away from Virginia and I can easily free up a couple of days in the next few months. Let me know. Who knows.....we could have a CSR new engine start party in FLA!

John
 
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