2001 380DA wiring diagram - replace stereo amp(s) positive wire

Okay, thank you everybody. If this is the only amp I'm going to run, and I have no plans to upgrade the second factory amp that's powering the four salon speakers, do I need power distribution blocks? Or can I run the positive and negative directly to the battery with inline fuses?
 
mrsrobinson said:
Okay, thank you everybody. If this is the only amp I'm going to run, and I have no plans to upgrade the second factory amp that's powering the four salon speakers, do I need power distribution blocks? Or can I run the positive and negative directly to the battery with inline fuses?
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion, but running the wires is a pretty big job especially if you've never run one through the boat before (It gets easier with time). Running a wire big enough for both amps (even if you redo the second amp a year or two later) would be smart time/money. The cost difference is going to be maybe $50-100? The time to pull the boat apart is the killer!!!

My suggestion is to run the wire large enough to power both amps, add the appropriate fuse (inline is fine) big enough for this amp and a future amp, and install a a decent distribution block. Then you are set if the other dies (Invariably it will about 2 weeks after you do the first one)!

The fact of the matter is, these amps are 20 years old and the capacitors are starting to leak/fail, so your going to end up replacing both pretty soon. Plan for both, install the appropriate wire now and replace the other amp as time and budget allow.

Ask me how I know this!!
 
dtfeld said:
Just a suggestion, but running the wires is a pretty big job especially if you've never run one through the boat before (It gets easier with time). Running a wire big enough for both amps (even if you redo the second amp a year or two later) would be smart time/money. The cost difference is going to be maybe $50-100? The time to pull the boat apart is the killer!!!

My suggestion is to run the wire large enough to power both amps, add the appropriate fuse (inline is fine) big enough for this amp and a future amp, and install a a decent distribution block. Then you are set if the other dies (Invariably it will about 2 weeks after you do the first one)!

The fact of the matter is, these amps are 20 years old and the capacitors are starting to leak/fail, so your going to end up replacing both pretty soon. Plan for both, install the appropriate wire now and replace the other amp as time and budget allow.

Ask me how I know this!!
Click to expand...
Makes sense, thanks.

So I need a 0-1 or 4 gauge in block, with 2 4 gauge out, one each for positive and negative, correct?
 
mrsrobinson said:
Makes sense, thanks.

So I need a 0-1 or 4 gauge in block, with 2 4 gauge out, one each for positive and negative, correct?
Click to expand...
This is where you'll gain access...

20230119_115847.jpg
 
Ok, "map pocket", now it makes sense. Back in the day when we used maps ;) Remove the 8 screws. Will the chair be in the way to pull it off?
 
 
So instead of the fuses you picked, I would go with this and is what I am using on my boat. -https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Circuit-Trolling-12V-48VDC-Waterproof/dp/B07TFH7LK6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=YMZ0LRK2Y4K8&keywords=100+amp+dc+breaker&qid=1674234572&s=automotive&sprefix=100+amp+dc+breake%2Cautomotive%2C104&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyN0NXREpCWUlGWkNVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDI3NjI0MUg4RzdNS0lDVTY4VCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ1Mjg2UzhTSjM5OVkxNUdEJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You can easily turn off and back on as needed, just put as close to the battery as you can.

If your going to crimp 4ga cable you need a special crimper, it can't be done by a hand held crimper. There are many types to choose from in the form of hydraulic to a hammer jig, but this may be best for your application: https://www.amazon.com/HomeGoal-Crimper-Crimping-Ratchet-Cutting/dp/B07H8YLF42/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1JMFYZTYI16SF&keywords=4+ga+wire+crimper&qid=1674234835&sprefix=4+ga+wire+crimper,aps,113&sr=8-6

If your using an add blocker you need to turn it off to access the link correctly or it may take you else where.

Also see post #6 ...
 
Thanks, I like the use you linked and will switch to that one.

I am looking at the Distribution block you referenced. I see 4 posts and it reads:

"IDEAL FOR AUTO AND MARINE WIRING: Wire up to 4 accessories with this 2 pack of bus bars"

I assume those 4 posts are output, where's the input source connection? From looking at the customer images it looks line one source and 3 outputs, which is ok for my application.

EDIT: I think I answered my question:

 
Posting links on this site has gotten wonky and if you use an add blocker it directs you somewhere else ...

mrsrobinson said:
Thanks, I like the use you linked and will switch to that one.

I am looking at the Distribution block you referenced. I see 4 posts and it reads:
Click to expand...

upload_2023-1-20_14-4-59.png
 
One last thing to consider. While the manufacturer recommends #4 wire, if your going to run the wire back to the batteries in a 380, your looking at 20'-25' each way, total 40'-50' round trip for the circuit. For a 3% Voltage Drop circuit, your probably better off with 2/0. Unfortunately it aint cheap.

Crutchfield has a good article --> https://www.crutchfield.com/S-2AtZBwZALY8/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html

Here is the Chart


Capture.PNG
 
mrsrobinson said:
Damn you guys love to spend my hard earned money ;)

Darn wire is $2 a foot.
Click to expand...
2/0 is $7. Working with 12V DC sucks! There is a reason Westinghouse won the AC DC argument over Edison back in the day!
 
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