2001 380DA wiring diagram - replace stereo amp(s) positive wire

mrsrobinson said:
Zero costs? Do tell.
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Sorry I forgot you have that other amp connected to the OEM wires.

I was (in an attempt at humor) referencing my controversial use of the OEM wires for the two amps I installed in place of the one amp the boat came with...
 
Are you guys talking 2/0 or #2? Quite a difference. I would think #2 would be plenty, in fact #3 would likely work.
 
My plan is to first use the wires that are there now, powering the current amp, and see if they will work. I guess "not work" will be the new powering off as I increase the volume?
 
It will work, but will not perform as well as the volume is turned up, and the batteries drain down. The wiring that is there is likely #10.

One other option is to replace the wire from the amp back to the main distribution panel. Sea Ray ran pretty beefy wires to various points in the boat, and you could improve things by redoing that wire, and save some $$$.
 
Why can't I install the amp in the cockpit, close to the speakers, in a protected area, and run the ground and power wire there instead of into the cabin? Auto installers do that all the time with the trunk of a car, suv, etc. That way I don't have to run new wires from the engine compartment to the cabin.

@Wylie_Tunes
 
It’s not that difficult to run wires to to the cabin. I like having the electronics in a more protected area, plus I would hate to give up any of my storage room in the cockpit. Lastly, it’s cooler down below and will keep your amp from overheating….

mrsrobinson said:
Why can't I install the amp in the cockpit, close to the speakers, in a protected area, and run the ground and power wire there instead of into the cabin? Auto installers do that all the time with the trunk of a car, suv, etc. That way I don't have to run new wires from the engine compartment to the cabin.

@Wylie_Tunes
Click to expand...
 
Just finished updating the amplifiers on my boat. Two zones each with a 400-Watt 4 channel and 600-Watt Monoblock.
I installed two 100 Amp circuit breakers in the engine room in the main disconnect panel then ran 2 AWG wires up to the helm; one red and one black for each zone (4 total). Then each amplifier has it's own 65 Amp fuse. The amplifiers, from what I've read are sensitive to voltage drop so the wire sizing vs length is important. Not a cheap nor easy endeavor but necessary to do it right. The boat, in my case, has to be torn apart to route wiring between the engine room and helm so these are things I want to do only once. The OEM 40 amp circuit breaker for the boat's audio is now dedicated to the audio system head (the circuit breaker in the first pic below the fuses). The message here is don't skimp on the power wiring. Zones 1 and 2 located under the helm -
IMG_7532.jpg
IMG_7531.jpg
 
Oh, here is another tidbit - I landed all of the grounds coming from the engine room on the existing helm ground terminal block. So there is a 00 (existing) and two new 4 gauge wires feeding the common ground block under the helm. Then the amplifiers and head unit grounds were fed from that ground block. I wanted to make sure all things had a common ground to prevent any chance of a ground loop issue.
 
SKybolt said:
I find this works a little better then the fiber rod on a boat. It also helps with fishing wires in the arch. But what Chris posted is also in the dock box.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...ape-with-Low-Profile-Tip-48-22-4181/308329854
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Forget steel fish tapes..they rust and leave nasty marks on your vinyl. I have this at the boat that works wonders for pulling all kinds of wire. It stiff enough that I have been able to push it down the small opening that runs along the inside of the rub rail from the salon back into the engine room.

Very handy and inexpensive. A must have IMHO.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCHLLMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
mrsrobinson said:
Why can't I install the amp in the cockpit, close to the speakers, in a protected area, and run the ground and power wire there instead of into the cabin? Auto installers do that all the time with the trunk of a car, suv, etc. That way I don't have to run new wires from the engine compartment to the cabin.

@Wylie_Tunes
Click to expand...
Im not sure if this is the answer you are seeking. Even a marine grade amp should be placed in a good/safe location, away from excess heat. fuel fumes and direct water contact.

As far as distance from anything. My first safe location choice, is going to be the shortest RCA runs. The longer the RCA, the better chance for unwanted noise getting in. Next is going to be which location offers the shortest power cables runs. Short power cables are great, but you can always compensate with larger gauge cable, which would not impact performance. Long speaker wire? I would not waste one ounce of brain power here. You would have to be pushing some serious wattage over a serious distance, to worry about cable gauge here.
 
Spot on as usual, thank you @Wylie_Tunes

Wylie_Tunes said:
Im not sure if this is the answer you are seeking. Even a marine grade amp should be placed in a good/safe location, away from excess heat. fuel fumes and direct water contact.

As far as distance from anything. My first safe location choice, is going to be the shortest RCA runs. The longer the RCA, the better chance for unwanted noise getting in. Next is going to be which location offers the shortest power cables runs. Short power cables are great, but you can always compensate with larger gauge cable, which would not impact performance. Long speaker wire? I would not waste one ounce of brain power here. You would have to be pushing some serious wattage over a serious distance, to worry about cable gauge here.
Click to expand...
 
dtfeld said:
Forget steel fish tapes..they rust and leave nasty marks on your vinyl. I have this at the boat that works wonders for pulling all kinds of wire. It stiff enough that I have been able to push it down the small opening that runs along the inside of the rub rail from the salon back into the engine room.

Very handy and inexpensive. A must have IMHO.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCHLLMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

I couldn't live without my fish tape or so I thought. Never experienced the rust marks though. But I ordered the one you referenced and tried it out yesterday. Pretty nice, I like the wire ends. Can't have too many options for running wires etc.
 
For those following along at home...

I finally purchased a Kicker 5 channel amp. 65 watts to each of the cockpit 6.5s will double the power. I think that will be a nice, clean bump. 150 to the sub. I plan to use the factory wires for now, and will run new wires in the fall or winter when it cools down. If I need them. I don't plan on playing it loud for extended periods, so maybe I'll get lucky.
 
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