2011 Sundeck 260 Head Hatch Handle Repair

[Chris Lovlecae]

I've search the forums and can't find this specifically. Since I've got my new-to-me Sundeck, I've been noticing just how...well, the decisions the previous owner made when doing work or fixing issues on the boat. Like using regular screws instead of stainless or at least galvanized when installing speakers that didn't line up with the factory holes.

To that end, the handle for the hatch was broken and luckily, they are still manufactured so I'm going to but a new one. Then I ran into this:

The place where the screws are supposed to take purchase is completely shot. My initial plan is to use a product I found called Marine-Tex to fill in following the mold line. When it hardens, drill some holes that fit the screws for the replacement handle. I've never done this before and am worried that the repair won't properly adhere to the underlying wood substrate or that the screw will crack the epoxy and I will be right back where I started.

Has anyone used the Marine-Tex or can they recommend a suitable substitute for buildup that will last the test of time and take a crew without cracking? I was thinking of mixing in some fiberglass to the Marine-Tex for example to give it a little more strength.

Thanks for any help!

P.S. The gelcoat holes are where the previous owner just screwed in a simple latch. It got the job done as far as keeping the hatch closed BUT it looks like crap. I'll fill the screw holes with whatever I use for the overall latch repair and dip my feet in with my first (but not last) gelcoat repair. The black in the background is the rubber carpet backing that is still stuck to the nonskid that I am fighting. Ugh.

 

[jmcdboater]

After filling the broken out areas with Marine-Tex, how about reinforcing the area by using metal (or other strong, thin materials) on both sides, screwed or bolted together. That would be pretty strong, as long as there’s room to get them covering the stressed area.

 

[Chris Lovlecae]

Hmmm...do you mean sandwich the area with a metal plate on both sides, then put the handle in around it? The repair needs to just be strong enough to hold the door handle and survive the repeated shock of the opening and closing. A friend mentioned adding some reinforcement but I'm not sure how to do that. I was thinking of mixing in some fiberglass fibers into the Marine-Tex to shore it up a bit. Or maybe drilling out some holes and gluing in some nylon plugs for the screws to gain purchase without putting too much pressure on the Marine-Tex so I doesn't crack.

 

[jmcdboater]

I really like the idea of adding a bunch of fiberglass matting into the Marine-Tex to add some strength. Maybe Im not understanding how the handle gets attached…do the screws go horizontally thru the two small holes in your picture, or vertically down into the approximate 3/4” area?

 

[Chris Lovlecae]

The screws will go into the pictured spots. You can see that's where the plywood has cracked out. The patch will need to bond to the surrounding material, hold up to the stress of the screws and repeated opening and closing of the door without cracking. I'm hoping the Marine-Tex will fill the bill.

 

[jmcdboater]

The screws will go into the pictured spots. You can see that's where the plywood has cracked out. The patch will need to bond to the surrounding material, hold up to the stress of the screws and repeated opening and closing of the door without cracking. I'm hoping the Marine-Tex will fill the bill.

Great clarification, especially with the red markings. So my suggestion was to use some fiberglass screening, matting, threads, etc….into the Marine-Tex for added strength, then add a plate of thin aluminum on both sides, perpendicular to the screws. Using some small bolts to hold them in place will help strengthen the entire area. I’d do it to both areas with the screws, or if possible one long piece on each side, long enough to cover both screws.

 

[Lazy Daze]

I think the MT (or PC-11) will work fine. But if this was my project, I'd repair it with epoxy resin (or polyester). The resins will soak into the plywood and make a much stronger bond. Start by freshening up the wood by lightly grinding away to expose fresh wood. Lightly sand the inside of the glass. Clean with alcohol. Coat the edges of the plywood a few times with unthickened epoxy to get a good soak-in. Then mix up thickened epoxy (thick peanut butter) with cut-up pieces of glass mixed in for extra strength and apply to the void area. Double check for sag as it starts to kick and re-adjust if needed. Once hardened, sand/grind away any extra and fit the lock. This should now be a permanent repair.

 

[Chris Lovlecae]

I think the MT (or PC-11) will work fine. But if this was my project, I'd repair it with epoxy resin (or polyester). The resins will soak into the plywood and make a much stronger bond. Start by freshening up the wood by lightly grinding away to expose fresh wood. Lightly sand the inside of the glass. Clean with alcohol. Coat the edges of the plywood a few times with unthickened epoxy to get a good soak-in. Then mix up thickened epoxy (thick peanut butter) with cut-up pieces of glass mixed in for extra strength and apply to the void area. Double check for sag as it starts to kick and re-adjust if needed. Once hardened, sand/grind away any extra and fit the lock. This should now be a permanent repair.

Lazy Daze,

I'm out of my comfort zone with epoxy. I've worked simple repairs with other stuff on different projects. Would you mind recommending the products to use? The repair you suggested sounds exactly like what I would want to do.

Thank you for the tip!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Sure, Chris. The first thing I'm going to recommend is to get some epoxy and just start playing with it. Mix it up, spread it out, leave some in the cup, glue some wood together, mix some with some saw dust, talcum powder or even go crazy get the "by the book" stuff and buy some fumed silica. Doing that will give you a better understanding of things.

The type of glass you buy isn't real important since you'll be cutting it up. Mat, strand, e-glass, cloth... whatever... you'll only need a small piece. But add that to the "play" list and glass some scrap wood pieces together. Again, this is some hands-on experimenting that will learn you good stuff

Any brand will work. But for your first go around, get the West System (NOTHING to do with West Marine, by the way... other than they may carry it). It's a nearly fool-proof system. Check out their website - they have extensive how-to's.

 

[jmcdboater]

Sure, Chris. The first thing I'm going to recommend is to get some epoxy and just start playing with it. Mix it up, spread it out, leave some in the cup, glue some wood together, mix some with some saw dust, talcum powder or even go crazy get the "by the book" stuff and buy some fumed silica. Doing that will give you a better understanding of things.

The type of glass you buy isn't real important since you'll be cutting it up. Mat, strand, e-glass, cloth... whatever... you'll only need a small piece. But add that to the "play" list and glass some scrap wood pieces together. Again, this is some hands-on experimenting that will learn you good stuff

Any brand will work. But for your first go around, get the West System (NOTHING to do with West Marine, by the way... other than they may carry it). It's a nearly fool-proof system. Check out their website - they have extensive how-to's.

That sounds like Really good advice, excellent way to get started!

 

[Lazy Daze]

That sounds like Really good advice, excellent way to get started!

You're welcome!

 

[Chris Lovlecae]

Wrapping up this thread. Thanks to all who commented. I purchased the West Systems Epoxy
(Thanks, Lazy Daze!) along with 404 High Density Filler. I will post pictures of the final result this weekend. I will say that I love this epoxy stuff! It seems solid and I effected multiple little repairs I found around the boat with it. We'll see how well the repairs stand up this season. It sands and grinds easy enough to allow for complex shapes. The door handle and screw holes are completely gone after gelcoating. I used the Spectrum paste that perfectly matches my boat. I asked Sea Ray what I should get and passed that info to Spectrum. Easy-peasy though a bit pricy but I'm pleased with the results.

One thing that I found made it easy to do some detailed work with the epoxy was to buy a little syringe kit that allowed me to easily fill small holes and work around complex corners with this epoxy. The syringes even worked when I made the peanut butter consistency stuff.

I purchased this syringe pack and it worked well. My kids were wondering why I bought it...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RSTQ6RV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thanks again, everyone! Thank the Lord for this forum! I'd be a lost (or poorer) noob boat owner without it!

 

[Chris Lovlecae]

Picture of my repair! I think it looks pretty good! I put a layer of plastic wrap between the structure of the handle and the door and then bedded with epoxy. The hope is that any of the torquing forces will be transferred through he epoxy bedding into the structure and not rely on the two tiny screws that hold the handle to the door on the narrow side.

Whoever cut the opening for the original handle, cut the who way too big. So every time someone tried to open the door, all the torque was going into the small structure that held the two tiny screws. The original pictures showed where the structure failed.

This was a tedious repair but only because I was learning on how to get the gelcoat back to its glossy self which took a little bit of learning.

I happy to walk anyone through my process if they have a similar repair they need to do. Additionally, I used the epoxy and gelcoat paste to repair the anchor locker hatch to the same effect. I'll keep and eye on my repairs to see if they hold up for the season.

Thanks to all!