30ft+/ Oversized load Trailering. Lets see your tow rigs.

Ok yes you do need to take her for a nice weekend out on the boat.


Then you can get the radar...


I’ll have to start a thread on my antenna system to get into all the details but I dont see any reason with a little care and waterproof Ethernet port you cant do it.
 
Thats what I was thinking. If I can get away with traveling with a 14'6" load in oregon, then I wouldn't worry about it. But the over width permit is going to be a bear as it is. And with a CDL A, they are already wanting me to get a commercial permit. And register the pick up commercial as well. Then I have to deal with the IFTA and all the other crap that goes along with it. I told them I would just go exempt and drive less than the 5000 miles a year to go around it. The guy just laughed at me. We will see. As for right now, they can't find the over width permit to cover a personal load.
 
My trailer is a little longer than yours. I need to get those side bunks put on mine. I'm not liking the guessing game of being on the trailer or off to one side. How tall is yours to the top of the radar arch? I need to measure mine and see if I can swing a radar if I can find one. The Lowrance 4G is next to impossible around here.

As for the sway, I was told I will need airbags on my DRW Chebby
Rough guesstimate is around 12' 6" by laying a 2X4 across the arch, and dropping a tape measure. As for the sway, I don't think adding spring capacity would help. That seems to be driven more by tongue weight. Also, the diesel puts a LOT of extra weight on the truck's front axle, so that probably comes into play. Then, the triple axle has a lot of inherent straight-line stability to begin with. We tooled along at 65 mph without any indication of a wiggle, and Idaho roads are not known for their quality surfaces.
Without reading back through earlier posts, what size/OAL/weight capacity is your Chebby? I'd be inclined (okay, cheap) to try it first without going to the airbags. Assuming you don't get an excessive amount of squat from the rear axle, you might be okay as-is. Obviously, you'd want to carefully creep up on speed/maneuverability limits before diving in too deep.
 
I think airbags do help with sway. I have some on my truck because I Have a cab-over camper.
I aired them to 100lbs when I pulled this past summer, I had one heck of a crosswind for a while, and I feel they straightened the truck up quicker. I also have noticed it when hauling the camper.
I didn't put mine on for the squat as I didn't really have any since it's a one ton. I put them on for the camper sway.
Airbags aren't very expensive if you can install yourself, which I did.
 
I know from when I had the ol 95 with the 6.5l diesel in it, when pulling the 30' 5er, bags made a huge difference. The previous owner had them on their own lines and it would sway and buck. But when I put the lines together they would equalize and it stopped all the sway. Got rid of the bucking when I switched to a clam shell hitch and moved it forward of the axel by 2".

As for the weight of the new 04' Chebby, I'll run it across the scales tomorrow when I get headed home from a truss delivery. That is if the weigh master isn't in the house. It's a jump scale and they have been open every day for the last week. I know pulling this kind of load I wanted a crew cab with the 8' bed. And the DRW just for the stability. Plus I think an apple bottom girl is sexy.:D
 
Bumping this up to the now, since there's recently a lot of noise being made about fuel costs. I know on Pend O'Reille, I can tow my boat from Bayview to Sandpoint by traveling about 26 road miles ($14), whereas by water is right at 31 miles ($120). It seems counter-productive, but the fuel at the local gas stations is a bunch cheaper around Bayview than Sandpoint, so, if I want to spend more time around Sandpoint, it makes more sense to just tow it up there. I honestly don't know just how much more expensive the marina gas would be; I can only imagine.
 
Today is the first day I have been out after my trips to the ER. I about crapped when I seen the diesel prices. The last trip into town where I passed a fuel stop diesel was at $3.87. Today it is $5.28. For B20 bio. So little BTU's with that crap. Good ol #2 I get about 28mpg. The B20 Im lucky to get 12mpg. Aviation fuel, I'm told is still about $6 100LL. Had a friend pass a few days ago and when the memorial happens I might take my four 55 gallon barrels with me. She owned the FOB and fuel pumps with her boyfriend/partner.
 
Wait, I knew you were sick, but the ER? Dang, dude; I'm glad you're doing better.

Yeah, I guess I almost died. I asked the wife a few times to please put me out of my misery. But she said she needed blah blah blah, some chit then blah blah blah.

Who'd of thought, that an abscessed tooth popping could poison the blood so bad. I never did.
 
Hi JFF,

a. Nitrogen everywhere – What have you experienced the difference being between nitrogen or plain air-filled tires?
I experienced first hand for nitrogen in the tires. When I was in Florida, one tire was air filled and the difference was obvious with the five others. I was barely able to keep my hand on it. It was just fine on the others.

b. Straps – That boat is 14,500 lbs!!! Straps? Really?
Yes because of the bumps on the road. No matter how much the boat weight, I still want it to be locked on the trailer.

c. Ratchet wrench (to tighten your wheels) – I’ve never done this on the road before. Maybe I’ve just been lucky. Largest I’ve towed was a 26’ Sundance. Have you experienced the loosening of trailer lug nuts?
Happened to me 2 years ago on a brand new LoadRite trailer and I lost a wheel on the road. Since then, I tighten them every time I refuel.
I know I’m years late on this but in case anyone reads all the way through this.
The lug nuts are coming loose because the threads are galling.
Eventually they will strip out either the stud or the nut (whichever is the softer material).
Use grease or anti seize in small amounts on threads to prevent galling and subsequent loosening.
 
I know I’m years late on this but in case anyone reads all the way through this.
The lug nuts are coming loose because the threads are galling.
Eventually they will strip out either the stud or the nut (whichever is the softer material).
Use grease or anti seize in small amounts on threads to prevent galling and subsequent loosening.

I find using antisieze on the lugs has always helped. I always plan on 10 years for logs. They press out pretty easy. But I dont remove the wheels unless they absolutely need to be. Some tire shops just dont care about your equipment. So a huge help is removing and installing myself.
 
'Was introduced to this stuff during my A&P days for use on anything that bolts to the aluminum cylinder head on airplane engines. It's now used all over the old VW's and Norton. Yes, a little dab on the threads and taper of lug nuts works wonderfully.
71OpRsEI2jL._AC_SX679_.jpg
 
'Was introduced to this stuff during my A&P days for use on anything that bolts to the aluminum cylinder head on airplane engines. It's now used all over the old VW's and Norton. Yes, a little dab on the threads and taper of lug nuts works wonderfully.
71OpRsEI2jL._AC_SX679_.jpg
And knowing the proper torque spec might be helpful as well.

My guess is that if they keep getting loose and need retightened they need above mentioned lubricant and they may be over tightened.
 
And knowing the proper torque spec might be helpful as well.

My guess is that if they keep getting loose and need retightened they need above mentioned lubricant and they may be over tightened.
You do have to be careful, as the "proper" torque is normally derived from the known tensile strength of the stud, based on the thread pitch. Unless noted, this is with dry (albeit healthy) threads. If you run a lubed nut down to the "dry" torque reading, you'll actually be over-torquing the fastener. I err on the conservative, and torque to the lower end of the spec. That, and I also check them about every hour until I'm confident they're not moving, which is about all the further we can make it between potty breaks...
 
I agree. When I put lug nuts on I just use grease because it is less messy than anti seize and I just pull them fairly snug. I never bare down on it at all.
I’ve never had one to come loose.
 
I agree. When I put lug nuts on I just use grease because it is less messy than anti seize and I just pull them fairly snug. I never bare down on it at all.
I’ve never had one to come loose.

I like to Les Schwab them. Then back them off a quarter turn. Just kidding.

The proper spec is all I go. I like to be able to remove one if I have a flat while away from the impact.
 
I like to Les Schwab them. Then back them off a quarter turn. Just kidding.

The proper spec is all I go. I like to be able to remove one if I have a flat while away from the impact.
I carry one of these with me whenever I tow anything:

Screen Shot 2022-03-09 at 8.41.55 PM.png


3/4 In. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench I know; Harbor Freight, but I've verified it against a known standard, and it's within a couple percent at 100 lb/ft. At just over 2 feet long, it's easy to obtain the torque values for most lug nuts.
 
I carry one of these with me whenever I tow anything:

View attachment 122234

3/4 In. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench I know; Harbor Freight, but I've verified it against a known standard, and it's within a couple percent at 100 lb/ft. At just over 2 feet long, it's easy to obtain the torque values for most lug nuts.
I used to carry one with me. But I carry so much "stuff" I would be over weight empty pulling out of the driveway. Scaled way back on everything and only carry what I might need. I have been using the HF ones for years. I have not had one off by much if at all.
 
I carry one of these with me whenever I tow anything:

View attachment 122234

3/4 In. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench I know; Harbor Freight, but I've verified it against a known standard, and it's within a couple percent at 100 lb/ft. At just over 2 feet long, it's easy to obtain the torque values for most lug nuts.
I have one of those and never thought of using it on the lug nuts! Sheesh! I used the standard x wrench with a different size on each end of the x. It works but I have had a Les Schwab gorilla tighten them to one click below twisting off. I twisted one off last summer trying to get a tire off. Oh well, I'll try some grease or Anti-Seize next time.
 
I have one of those and never thought of using it on the lug nuts! Sheesh! I used the standard x wrench with a different size on each end of the x. It works but I have had a Les Schwab gorilla tighten them to one click below twisting off. I twisted one off last summer trying to get a tire off. Oh well, I'll try some grease or Anti-Seize next time.

I also carry the X wrench. They will work to get you off the road and to the shop.

The last pick up I had, Schwab did that to 6 of the 8 lugs on one wheel. I called them from middle of nowhere 84 and had them come fix it. Haven't used them since.
 

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