340 SUNDANCER THREAD

KevinC said:
As @DrPringle mentioned they are just vent covers. There are a couple of close matches just watch the screw spacings. I have been looking at seeing if I can retrofit the stainless models.

https://sea-dog.com/groups/2119-thru-vent-abs



Lights are cools and can get expensive quickly. That is a personal preference. Like usual if they are not leaking or broken I would just leave them. I would probably eventually replace with new lights.



Actuator is a 4inch stroke on my 2004 340SDA. I replaced with this one from Amazon. You will need to replace the connector as it is probably corroded. I would look used a weatherpack connector on both sides.



Not much I can add. The VV will give you the smartcraft data. Troubleshooting the old monitors can be frustrating and parts are not available.



Looks like you have the cover but it is just black. If that is the case tecngraphic can refinish for you.



At this point you are going to add new if you don't have it so I would look to match to what ever electronics manufacture you are going to use to keep integration simple. Most people seem to go with Garmin or Raymarine.

I would also look at the 2003.5-2008 Sundancer model year thread as it has lots of good info specific to our model.

-Kevin
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Great advice. Thanks! I'll order a couple of vent covers and actuator for now. I guess I'll have to get to the boat to address the other issues. Beautiful boat, but it's going to need some attention... (-;
 
Option for actuator. When you get to the boat, remove the cover from the actuator and clean the contacts as they will get dirty due to their exposure. Test to make sure you have power. Disconnect arm from the glass and give it a tug while activating the open n close button and see if it will break loose. Mine has done this twice and usually breaks free very easy. I now put a little lube on the shaft and work it back m forth a few times as part of out winterizing.

So far as for the trip, sky's the limit. We keep a IAC valve, oil, fuel filter, coolant, some spare blue drain plugs (they like to start leaking at the most inopportune times), impellor kit for engines and genny, the list cold go on forever. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.
 
Quick prop question. We got our first 340 last November. It’s a 2000 with 7.4 MPI’s and the 1.5:1 transmissions. It currently has 17x16 3 blade props on it. They certainly have some cupping to the blades, but I’m not sure to what extent. They aren’t in bad shape at all. I’m pulling the boat out at the end of next month for fresh bottom paint and to install transom lights. I had a 330DA that I purchased a new set of props for that are still brand new. However, it was equipped with 2.0:1 transmissions and these particular props are 18x20 3 blade (no cupping). From what I’m finding in my research, my particular model of 340 has 1.5” prop shafts and the props that I purchased for my 330 are bored for 1.25” shafts. The 340 that we have now is very quick to come out of the water and tops out around 35MPH. What I don’t like about it is that I have to be at 3400ish or more to stay on plane and the engines top out right at 5KRPM starboard and 4800 port. That seems a little high to me compared to what my old 7.4’s ran in my 330. They were carbureted though so maybe that’s a big part of the difference. I could stay on plane at 2900-3000 with my old 330 and would like to be able to do the same with the 340 that we have now. Maybe that’s not possible…I’m not sure. I’m just wondering if I cut these new props that I have to a 1.5” bore, if they’ll work on this 340. Not sure if the jump to an 18” prop as well as going up 4” in pitch is going to be too much. Any insight that any of you have on this situation would be greatly appreciated. I just hate to have these new props here and not be able to use them. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
450rdawg said:
Quick prop question. We got our first 340 last November. It’s a 2000 with 7.4 MPI’s and the 1.5:1 transmissions. It currently has 17x16 3 blade props on it. They certainly have some cupping to the blades, but I’m not sure to what extent. They aren’t in bad shape at all. I’m pulling the boat out at the end of next month for fresh bottom paint and to install transom lights. I had a 330DA that I purchased a new set of props for that are still brand new. However, it was equipped with 2.0:1 transmissions and these particular props are 18x20 3 blade (no cupping). From what I’m finding in my research, my particular model of 340 has 1.5” prop shafts and the props that I purchased for my 330 are bored for 1.25” shafts. The 340 that we have now is very quick to come out of the water and tops out around 35MPH. What I don’t like about it is that I have to be at 3400ish or more to stay on plane and the engines top out right at 5KRPM starboard and 4800 port. That seems a little high to me compared to what my old 7.4’s ran in my 330. They were carbureted though so maybe that’s a big part of the difference. I could stay on plane at 2900-3000 with my old 330 and would like to be able to do the same with the 340 that we have now. Maybe that’s not possible…I’m not sure. I’m just wondering if I cut these new props that I have to a 1.5” bore, if they’ll work on this 340. Not sure if the jump to an 18” prop as well as going up 4” in pitch is going to be too much. Any insight that any of you have on this situation would be greatly appreciated. I just hate to have these new props here and not be able to use them. Thanks in advance for your help!
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Your 7.4s should run 4000 to 4800 rpm’s. I’d either check and change your current props or maybe try a 17 x 16 four blade. That extra blade should drop your rpm’s 200-400 and put you in the mid range. You can look up the original size in the parts manual. And searching here will give you what others have done.
 
Golfman25 said:
Your 7.4s should run 4000 to 4800 rpm’s. I’d either check and change your current props or maybe try a 17 x 16 four blade. That extra blade should drop your rpm’s 200-400 and put you in the mid range. You can look up the original size in the parts manual. And searching here will give you what others have done.
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Thank you for you reply. I’m just wondering if the 18” diameter would be too big with the 99-02 340’s when I went from 17 to 18 on my old boat, the maneuverability was leaps and bounds better. I’m just not very educated when it comes to props/sizes. Most of the research I’ve done on here has the 03 and up years and they’re quite different.
 
You don't need to remove the cover to change the trucks. You will need to remove the cover to change the tracks. I am only posting this in case someone searches for it. Contact me for help with removing the cover. You can remove the door without removing the cover.
 
The plastic grills that are over the motor intake vents are missing or broken. I'm going to put 1/4" stainless steel hardware cloth over them. They are just big enough I could see a small bird building a nest up inside one of them.
 
dvx216 said:
The plastic grills that are over the motor intake vents are missing or broken. I'm going to put 1/4" stainless steel hardware cloth over them. They are just big enough I could see a small bird building a nest up inside one of them.
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I'm working on a 3d printed vent cover for my 340. If it works I'd be happy to send you a couple to try. You'd have to pay shipping.
 

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SF Dave said:
You don't need to remove the cover to change the trucks. You will need to remove the cover to change the tracks. I am only posting this in case someone searches for it. Contact me for help with removing the cover. You can remove the door without removing the cover.
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Not a comment about trucks or tracks, but your avatar is hilarious!
 
So just like our 310 Da. the track split in half at the end. So I bought 12" of aluminum track cut the broken track out and installed the aluminum piece in it's place. Had to put some plastic shims under the the new track but over all it worked out pretty good. You can fell the truck going over the seam but it's just a slight bump. I will put some some epoxy in the small seam to eliminate it all together.
 

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dvx216 said:
The plastic grills that are over the motor intake vents are missing or broken. I'm going to put 1/4" stainless steel hardware cloth over them. They are just big enough I could see a small bird building a nest up inside one of them.
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Did mine a couple of months ago. Procured eight replacement vent covers and inserted s/s mesh. Looks clean and prevents
2450B309-7E86-44BA-839A-2DDB51E09025.jpeg
stowaways.
 
Kelly C said:
Did mine a couple of months ago. Procured eight replacement vent covers and inserted s/s mesh. Looks clean and preventsView attachment 140657 stowaways.
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Nice my only concern is if the cotton woods and spiders might block even the 1/4" hardware cloth I used. Those sure are pretty it's a same you barely can see them.
 
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