40 sedan bridge forum

40 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge Television Box Update

Did the television box removal this week. Very easy job, I wish I had done it years ago. Removing the box was the easy part, removing the black spray paint that Sea Ray used inside the box on the wall and ceiling was the PITA. Used acetone, about 1/2 gallon, re-used the hardware from the box to attach two small pieces of wood I covered in the old vinyl I removed from the box. Bought a tv mount from harbor freight and hold down straps from Amazon, a can of almond colored RTV to fill old holes in the vinyl, oh and a can of SEM vinyl paint, for touching up the vinyl behind the TV (I haven't go to that yet).

I still have the finishing touches to do.
 

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Just a heads up for other 40 Sedan Bridge owners and maybe this has already been discussed, sorry if it has.

But when I had my starboard sofa out, I noticed water intrusion that was coming from the side vent drain, rear starboard corner. Seems the fitting had started leaking over the years and the wood around the fitting was gone, causing a gap allowing water to run inside the boat instead of through the drain. I replaced the wood that was rotten and rebedded (sp?) the fitting so it drains through the hose again, I used fiberglass, silicone and 5200 also. Recovered with a piece of starboard.

if you open the starboard side cockpit locker there is a panel there that come off with 4 screws, this allows you to see the area from the other side without taking out the sofa. But if it's rotten there it will be rotten on the other side too and the sofa will need to come out. Taking the sofa out is not that bad of a job. The wood that was rotten did not seem to be structural so I am not sure it's that big of a deal anyway. But again, I just wanted to give a headsup for any other owners. My port side seemed to be fine.

It's not the prettiest repair but effective, I should have painted it when I was done.
 

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Just a heads up for other 40 Sedan Bridge owners and maybe this has already been discussed, sorry if it has.

But when I had my starboard sofa out, I noticed water intrusion that was coming from the side vent drain, rear starboard corner. Seems the fitting had started leaking over the years and the wood around the fitting was gone, causing a gap allowing water to run inside the boat instead of through the drain. I replaced the wood that was rotten and rebedded (sp?) the fitting so it drains through the hose again, I used fiberglass, silicone and 5200 also. Recovered with a piece of starboard.

if you open the starboard side cockpit locker there is a panel there that come off with 4 screws, this allows you to see the area from the other side without taking out the sofa. But if it's rotten there it will be rotten on the other side too and the sofa will need to come out. Taking the sofa out is not that bad of a job. The wood that was rotten did not seem to be structural so I am not sure it's that big of a deal anyway. But again, I just wanted to give a headsup for any other owners. My port side seemed to be fine.

It's not the prettiest repair but effective, I should have painted it when I was done.
Thanks. Somewhat related, I’ve considered running that drain line to the cockpit to drain off the boat rather than into the engine room. Would run it along the bottom of that compartment to a small thru hull I’d install in the cockpit. Would like to do the vent drain on the other side as well. The whole design concept of pushing outside water into a boat just doesn’t sit well with me.
 
Thanks. Somewhat related, I’ve considered running that drain line to the cockpit to drain off the boat rather than into the engine room. Would run it along the bottom of that compartment to a small thru hull I’d install in the cockpit. Would like to do the vent drain on the other side as well. The whole design concept of pushing outside water into a boat just doesn’t sit well with me.
I agree with you on the water running into the bilge. Drive me crazy that the a/c condensate runs into the forward engine bilge too. Bilge pumps are constantly working, and i am constantly keeping an eye on them.

Talking about water drainage, have you done anything with your trunk staying dry? There are no drains in there, that's where I want to add one, of course it's going to go into my bilge as well. :)
 
I agree with you on the water running into the bilge. Drive me crazy that the a/c condensate runs into the forward engine bilge too. Bilge pumps are constantly working, and i am constantly keeping an eye on them.

Talking about water drainage, have you done anything with your trunk staying dry? There are no drains in there, that's where I want to add one, of course it's going to go into my bilge as well. :)
I don’t use a/c much so rusty here but I thought the a/c drain run into the sump ?
 
I checked today, forward a/c drains into sump. salon a/c drains into forward engine room bilge.

Maybe I can reroute it? I will have to look into it.
MY 2002 has both AC units running into the shower sump. I prefer that hum over the bilge pumps going off.
I also ran my galley directly overboard. It is much better than running into the sump and all the food from the sink makes for a bacteria farm much faster.
 
Got a question for you all. Going to change out the stereo. old oval piece in the cabinet has many cuts into it. gong to route a new piece of wood. but t has that white Formica on it and I need to replace that to make it look uniform. anyone know the color code Sea Ray Used??
 
Got a question for you all. Going to change out the stereo. old oval piece in the cabinet has many cuts into it. gong to route a new piece of wood. but t has that white Formica on it and I need to replace that to make it look uniform. anyone know the color code Sea Ray Used??
I would think it's just stark white formica. How about changing it to white starboard instead? Maybe flounder pounder might know what the exact color is. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
 
I would think it's just stark white formica. How about changing it to white starboard instead? Maybe flounder pounder might know what the exact color is. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
I hand cut a piece of plywood for the inner ring, when I installed my new Fusion a few years back. Then the outer ring (formica) got roughed with sandpaper. Then I painted both pieces with special latex primer then flat black (2x coats). I like the look. Every once in a while it needs a touch up though.
 
MY 2002 has both AC units running into the shower sump. I prefer that hum over the bilge pumps going off.
I also ran my galley directly overboard. It is much better than running into the sump and all the food from the sink makes for a bacteria farm much faster.
I am wondering if this post may have solved a mystery for me......

Does rain water that enters these vents
1694195663273.png


get directed to this drain (red circle below) via a hose?
1694195727704.png


Looking for one of my mysteries to be solved.

tks

Dave
 
I am wondering if this post may have solved a mystery for me......

Does rain water that enters these vents
View attachment 150774

get directed to this drain (red circle below) via a hose?
View attachment 150775

Looking for one of my mysteries to be solved.

tks

Dave
Rainwater that enters those vents gets collected and routed to the engine room via a 5/8” drain hose. The hose ends just above the top stringer at the shaft to transmission coupler. There is one on each side of the engine room. I’m not really sure why that drain trough is there. Maybe for residual water that overflows the drain??
 
Rainwater that enters those vents gets collected and routed to the engine room via a 5/8” drain hose. The hose ends just above the top stringer at the shaft to transmission coupler. There is one on each side of the engine room. I’m not really sure why that drain trough is there. Maybe for residual water that overflows the drain??
Here's a photo of what it looks like when it develops a leak. Second picture is the repair. You can access the hose without removing the sofa, there is a vertical panel that is easily removed at the end closet to the sliding door.
 

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Here's a photo of what it looks like when it develops a leak. Second picture is the repair. You can access the hose without removing the sofa, there is a vertical panel that is easily removed at the end closet to the sliding door.
Thanks for the details regarding those drain hoses. I never noticed them after 9 years of owning this boat, so I guess I need to be more observant.

Luckily I don't appear to have any rot there, but it will be something to watch over time.

That drainage 'crotch' that I highlighted above, is still a mystery however. Having just tossed our old carpets that used to be in the cockpit, we don't soggy carpets any longer from that source. It would great to not have water in the cockpit from that source of course.

thanks again,

Dave
 
Thanks for the details regarding those drain hoses. I never noticed them after 9 years of owning this boat, so I guess I need to be more observant.

Luckily I don't appear to have any rot there, but it will be something to watch over time.

That drainage 'crotch' that I highlighted above, is still a mystery however. Having just tossed our old carpets that used to be in the cockpit, we don't soggy carpets any longer from that source. It would great to not have water in the cockpit from that source of course.

thanks again,

Dave
Interesting, I never get water there on the starboard side . Next time on board I’ll have a look at that notch
 
Here's another heads up, Have a 1998 SD 40 and been chasing a water leak in galley and one in forward bath. One in galley was front window frames leaking around fiberglass, resealed all 3 front windows with silicone, appears with age and all the give and take that silicone just came loose and wasn't sealing anymore, the bath room was water leaking around glass and aluminium frames. removed all the rubber trim around glass and pitched that as it was all hard and brittle and took a glass scraper and removed all the old silicone and ran painters tape 3/8" from edge of glass and resealed with marine silicone, make sure you really clean glass good so you get a good seal. Taylor made has the exact replacement for that trim, its # 831940, I ordered 100' which should be enough to do 3 front windows and both side windows. Got drawings from taylor made for the trim but still wasn't sure it was right stuff till it came due to age of old stuff. In process of cutting new trim for install but between sealing of above 2 items cured some other water problems from leaks and really cut down on amount of water to bilge pumps so hope this helps someone as it wasn't easy tracking down the trim as there was 2 other types of trim that were close but weren't right. Took me close to 6 weeks to track down trim as it takes taylor made so long to gets drawings to you but in the end they came thru and the girls I dealt with were great to work with and as helpful as they could be.
 
Here's another heads up, Have a 1998 SD 40 and been chasing a water leak in galley and one in forward bath. One in galley was front window frames leaking around fiberglass, resealed all 3 front windows with silicone, appears with age and all the give and take that silicone just came loose and wasn't sealing anymore, the bath room was water leaking around glass and aluminium frames. removed all the rubber trim around glass and pitched that as it was all hard and brittle and took a glass scraper and removed all the old silicone and ran painters tape 3/8" from edge of glass and resealed with marine silicone, make sure you really clean glass good so you get a good seal. Taylor made has the exact replacement for that trim, its # 831940, I ordered 100' which should be enough to do 3 front windows and both side windows. Got drawings from taylor made for the trim but still wasn't sure it was right stuff till it came due to age of old stuff. In process of cutting new trim for install but between sealing of above 2 items cured some other water problems from leaks and really cut down on amount of water to bilge pumps so hope this helps someone as it wasn't easy tracking down the trim as there was 2 other types of trim that were close but weren't right. Took me close to 6 weeks to track down trim as it takes taylor made so long to gets drawings to you but in the end they came thru and the girls I dealt with were great to work with and as helpful as they could be.
I am sorry to say Atrick a few of us on here have done the windshield repairs to stop leaks. That trim piece is cosmetic and the window needs removed and rebedded. A complete scrape of the glass and channel and then they did a acetone cleaner then primer then sealant. It was a rare job that I called a professional for. I hope you get some relief from leaks but that was the same problem I had and sealant didn't stop the leaks it just slowed them down a little.
 
I am sorry to say Atrick a few of us on here have done the windshield repairs to stop leaks. That trim piece is cosmetic and the window needs removed and rebedded. A complete scrape of the glass and channel and then they did a acetone cleaner then primer then sealant. It was a rare job that I called a professional for. I hope you get some relief from leaks but that was the same problem I had and sealant didn't stop the leaks it just slowed them down a little.
The glass does not need to be removed and rebed. I’ve done three 400DBs in the same manner as atrick. First one I did was 8 years ago and is leak free.
 
The glass does not need to be removed and rebed. I’ve done three 400DBs in the same manner as atrick. First one I did was 8 years ago and is leak free.
Your right the glass doesn't have to be removed as the glass is set in the frame on foam then is siliconed in and the trim is cosmetic. Its not a hard job and removing the old sealant was a simple job, the hard part was recutting new trim to fit.
 
Hi all, my wife and I decided to sell our boat and get something else. We have a 1999 with Volvo 410 diesels with about 1400 hours and lots of new stuff and in great shape. We are on the upper Chesapeake Bay. Putting this out there before I talk to my broker. Thanks, Greg
 

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