410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Going to attempt to replace the cabin door track on our 2000 410, wondering how and if the door needs to come off as it looks like the track runs beyond where the door slides into.View attachment 133291
It will make the job way easier, I’m not sure if you have to cut the caulk on that top cover piece to get to the remainder of the track though. Pull the screws from the remaining track on both sides and the top door pulls right out. I take ours out yearly to clean and lube the trucks, takes 10 minutes
 
It will make the job way easier, I’m not sure if you have to cut the caulk on that top cover piece to get to the remainder of the track though. Pull the screws from the remaining track on both sides and the top door pulls right out. I take ours out yearly to clean and lube the trucks, takes 10 minutes
So your saying this part that has the brace for the windshield comes off by removing caulk?
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
So your saying this part that has the brace for the windshield comes off by removing caulk?
View attachment 133292 View attachment 133293
There was a thread on this several years ago (you'll have to search) but I beleive they cut the caulk out and reattached new track every 6" or so. There is another thread in here about getting matching caulk.

BoatOutfitters has the track, but only in white now (used to be available in black).

http://www.boatoutfitters.com/sea-ray-410-sliding-hatch-track


http://www.boatoutfitters.com/boat-sliding-door-hardware.html
 
Sooo.. OK. Picking up on the Victron Centaur install. I got the Blue Sea (with the bad non serviceable fuse) out, and started to position the Victron. The first issue I see is the eye connectors are too small for the Victron lugs. Now I can change the connectors of course but then I am worried that the wires are going to be too small for the Victron. It being 50A and the Blue Sea being 40A.

What gauge are the factory wires to the charger? The Victron seems to call for a minimum of AWG3 for this charger.
 
Sooo.. OK. Picking up on the Victron Centaur install. I got the Blue Sea (with the bad non serviceable fuse) out, and started to position the Victron. The first issue I see is the eye connectors are too small for the Victron lugs. Now I can change the connectors of course but then I am worried that the wires are going to be too small for the Victron. It being 50A and the Blue Sea being 40A.

What gauge are the factory wires to the charger? The Victron seems to call for a minimum of AWG3 for this charger.

not sure on the DC cables but you’ll want to check the AC wiring and breaker as well, someone else recently had to turn down their new charger because the factory wiring was too small for the increased draw
 
Saw a 410EC over the weekend. Haven't seen one in a while. Still love those boats! Just checked pricing and they are going for stupid money now.
 
Saw a 410EC over the weekend. Haven't seen one in a while. Still love those boats! Just checked pricing and they are going for stupid money now.

yeah, crazy. I’m still seeing 400/410 both DA and EC’s in the upper 180-190k and some are gas. I should just list ours for 250 lol
 
yeah, crazy. I’m still seeing 400/410 both DA and EC’s in the upper 180-190k and some are gas. I should just list ours for 250 lol

We have been selling 400’s and 410’s in the mis to high 100s with diesels in them. If you look around, what else can you buy for that amount of money with diesels in it, especially when a bow rider these days from a quality manufacturer is 200k plus.
 
Sooo.. OK. Picking up on the Victron Centaur install. I got the Blue Sea (with the bad non serviceable fuse) out, and started to position the Victron. The first issue I see is the eye connectors are too small for the Victron lugs. Now I can change the connectors of course but then I am worried that the wires are going to be too small for the Victron. It being 50A and the Blue Sea being 40A.

What gauge are the factory wires to the charger? The Victron seems to call for a minimum of AWG3 for this charger.

This is from the 2001 410 Owners Supplement and shows these wires to be #8. I dont know the length but probably fairly short (3-4 ft) as they run right to the hot side of the battery solenoids that are right next door in my boat.

The amount of current carrying capability is base on the length of your wire and weather you want a 3% or 10% voltage drop. To be able to do the whole 50A to one battery (which I believe is possible, but you would likely rarely see that) they recommend #6 and you can have a lead length of 50 ft for a 10% drop or 15 ft for 3%.

IMHO it would be pretty easy to replace the leads with #6 (or #4 or #2 depending on what you have available) wire and new ring connectors, but you will needs a few tools, you might not have, primarily a good crimp tool for things larger than #12 wire. Amazon has an IWISS for same day delivery for $33 with a cable cutter https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Batter...?keywords=6+awg+crimper&qid=1662470594&sr=8-5 . Its a great tool to have, as your bonding wires are likely #6 as well and they always seem to be in need of some attention. Everything else should be locally available at WM.

upload_2022-9-6_9-15-14.png
 
We have been selling 400’s and 410’s in the mis to high 100s with diesels in them. If you look around, what else can you buy for that amount of money with diesels in it, especially when a bow rider these days from a quality manufacturer is 200k plus.

its tempting but I'd end up just turning around the money and buying something nearly the same and then starting the process of getting it to our standards all over again. We love our boat, the layout, the size, everything. I'd like those values to stay where they are though :)
 
We have been selling 400’s and 410’s in the mis to high 100s with diesels in them. If you look around, what else can you buy for that amount of money with diesels in it, especially when a bow rider these days from a quality manufacturer is 200k plus.

Years ago I saw a pristine 410EC but gas. It was under 125k. Same boat like you said is 200k now.
 
This is from the 2001 410 Owners Supplement and shows these wires to be #8. I dont know the length but probably fairly short (3-4 ft) as they run right to the hot side of the battery solenoids that are right next door in my boat.

The amount of current carrying capability is base on the length of your wire and weather you want a 3% or 10% voltage drop. To be able to do the whole 50A to one battery (which I believe is possible, but you would likely rarely see that) they recommend #6 and you can have a lead length of 50 ft for a 10% drop or 15 ft for 3%.

IMHO it would be pretty easy to replace the leads with #6 (or #4 or #2 depending on what you have available) wire and new ring connectors, but you will needs a few tools, you might not have, primarily a good crimp tool for things larger than #12 wire. Amazon has an IWISS for same day delivery for $33 with a cable cutter https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Batter...?keywords=6+awg+crimper&qid=1662470594&sr=8-5 . Its a great tool to have, as your bonding wires are likely #6 as well and they always seem to be in need of some attention. Everything else should be locally available at WM.

View attachment 133325

Well I wussed out and bought another Blue Sea, but the V2 of the model I had before. Same wiring, same footprint, and same screw holes. I don't want to get into a big electrical project (which is really my weak point) while I am still dealing with the oil leak. The Victron is returnable via Amazon Prime, although I am debating keeping it for a later time when I might be more willing to dive into a project like that.

I also have been successful getting all 4 batteries charged, and I think I am going to use them for at least one more season. Again just for the sake of simplicity.
 
Well I wussed out and bought another Blue Sea, but the V2 of the model I had before. Same wiring, same footprint, and same screw holes. I don't want to get into a big electrical project (which is really my weak point) while I am still dealing with the oil leak. The Victron is returnable via Amazon Prime, although I am debating keeping it for a later time when I might be more willing to dive into a project like that.

I also have been successful getting all 4 batteries charged, and I think I am going to use them for at least one more season. Again just for the sake of simplicity.

return it and rebuy it imo, you won’t want it hanging on the shelf wasting the warranty away when you could always rebuy later
 
Sooo.. OK. Picking up on the Victron Centaur install. I got the Blue Sea (with the bad non serviceable fuse) out, and started to position the Victron. The first issue I see is the eye connectors are too small for the Victron lugs. Now I can change the connectors of course but then I am worried that the wires are going to be too small for the Victron. It being 50A and the Blue Sea being 40A.

What gauge are the factory wires to the charger? The Victron seems to call for a minimum of AWG3 for this charger.
The wire gauge is completely dependent upon the length of the wire. Take a look at this - https://www.bluesea.com/support/articles/1437/Part_1:_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_
For a battery charger keep within 3% voltage drop. Actually, I always size the DC wiring to be within that 3%.
 
Well I wussed out and bought another Blue Sea, but the V2 of the model I had before. Same wiring, same footprint, and same screw holes. I don't want to get into a big electrical project (which is really my weak point) while I am still dealing with the oil leak. The Victron is returnable via Amazon Prime, although I am debating keeping it for a later time when I might be more willing to dive into a project like that.

I also have been successful getting all 4 batteries charged, and I think I am going to use them for at least one more season. Again just for the sake of simplicity.

Nothing wrong with KISS method. With a new boat and lots of projects, makes sense not to over complicate.
 
Yep! One mf my main goal in purchasing the Victron was to add that third bank to charge the gen battery. While removing the Blue Sea I discovered that it was in fact a 3 bank charger and was wired to charge the gen battery.

When I received the boat the gen battery was dead so I erroneously assumed the charger was not set up to charge it. Little did I know the charger was just not charging ANY batteries (I told you this was my weak area).

So now my conclusion is the previous seller and probably the broker knew the charger was bad, but charged the up the main batteries for the Sea Trial, and it must have gotten by the surveyor. Lesson learned.

I am not angry about it. I expected issues with the boat. If this is as bad as it gets actually, I will be happy. Besides, this is all allowing me to learn the systems in stages. I am finally comfortable with the panels and have a good understanding of what circuit powers what. I know how to remove and replace the batteries, I know what bank powers what, I know how to use the emergency start and how it functions.

I am glad to have learned all this while the boat was in the slip and not out on the water.
 
I hate to admit it...but the season is quickly ending for us northerners. So what does everyone have planned for their rigs for this upcoming off season?

I'm looking forward to an easier wax process this year. I spent the entire season compounding, polishing and waxing last year. I got nothing else done on my boat. This year I plan to only wax below the rub rail and only polish/wax above. This should me save a whole lotta time. Time to do what? Hmmm....

  1. I'm strongly considering installing wood floor this winter. After seeing how great some of you guys have made it look, I'm nearly convinced it's worth the effort. For the money (DIY) it's probably hard to beat this project in terms of updating the look of the interior.
  2. I may bite the bullet and replace my cabin fridge. My '97 Norcold is still running...but on borrowed time.
  3. I may also change out my salon AC unit. Still running, still cold, but getting louder each season.

I probably won't do all three, maybe two. We shall see how the winter progresses.

So how about you guys?
 
I hate to admit it...but the season is quickly ending for us northerners. So what does everyone have planned for their rigs for this upcoming off season?

I'm looking forward to an easier wax process this year. I spent the entire season compounding, polishing and waxing last year. I got nothing else done on my boat. This year I plan to only wax below the rub rail and only polish/wax above. This should me save a whole lotta time. Time to do what? Hmmm....

  1. I'm strongly considering installing wood floor this winter. After seeing how great some of you guys have made it look, I'm nearly convinced it's worth the effort. For the money (DIY) it's probably hard to beat this project in terms of updating the look of the interior.
  2. I may bite the bullet and replace my cabin fridge. My '97 Norcold is still running...but on borrowed time.
  3. I may also change out my salon AC unit. Still running, still cold, but getting louder each season.

I probably won't do all three, maybe two. We shall see how the winter progresses.

So how about you guys?

seems as though we're on a similar trajectory although I'm glad I tackled that dreaded floor project last year :)

1) buff, polish, and wax the entire top deck non-skid. It needs a ton of effort and I didn't have the patience (or shade) to do it this summer. Our shrink wrap is tall enough that I can stand in most places and soaks up the sun on nice winter days so I plan to buff throughout the offseason

2) cabin fridge - leaning towards the isotherm 195 stainless. I'll likely remove the old before I wrap the boat and install the new one in the spring. I may also do the isotherm in the cockpit because the norcold is loud. They both work fine but I'm pretty sure they're on borrowed time

3) pull both vacu-flush vacuum generators, both toilets, and clean/rebuild everything. also likely to pull new sanitation hoses while it's all apart - this one is going to suck for a multitude of reasons

4) scuff up and a fresh coat of bottom paint. I was going to have the bottom blasted this year but I can get away with 1-2 more seasons so I'm putting it off.

5) transmission pressure senders and gauges. Aside from running the wire this is a relatively easy add
 

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