410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

[Strecker25]

410 Electrical Gurus.

I have a both a cockpit and cabin fridge that are AC/DC. They will be using the new BD35 compressors.

On the AC side - are both fridges fed off the 15A Refrigerator/Freezer breaker on AC line 1 on the Main Panel?

On the DC side - are both fridges fed off of the 15A DC breaker on the DC panel? I'm not sure the DC power to the cockpit fridge was standard (as the might have been an AC only ice maker there originally).

The DC side is going to be more important as I'm now going to be trying to run 3 compressors on the DC side, each pulling around 4.2 running amps.

Trying to plan this out. Owners manual schematics, not very clear or detailed.

definitely not an electrical guru but I do believe mine are both fed from the same breaker (ours was fridge up top from the factory)

maybe throw a clamp on the wiring behind the breaker and cycle each one on independently and see if they’re pulling from there to confirm? Mine both come on as soon as I flip the breaker

 

[bbwhitejr]

410 Electrical Gurus.

I have a both a cockpit and cabin fridge that are AC/DC. They will be using the new BD35 compressors.

On the AC side - are both fridges fed off the 15A Refrigerator/Freezer breaker on AC line 1 on the Main Panel?

On the DC side - are both fridges fed off of the 15A DC breaker on the DC panel? I'm not sure the DC power to the cockpit fridge was standard (as the might have been an AC only ice maker there originally).

The DC side is going to be more important as I'm now going to be trying to run 3 compressors on the DC side, each pulling around 4.2 running amps.

Trying to plan this out. Owners manual schematics, not very clear or detailed.

I have one DC breaker marked "Refrigeration/Freezer." That one 15amp DC breaker runs the cockpit refrigerator, salon freezer, and salon refrigerator-3-compressors as freezer and frig are separate units.

Bennett

 

[Strecker25]

For anyone considering replacing the waste hoses. No surprise, it's a nightmare.

Today I pulled about 3.5' from the forward head under the floor and to where the factory joint is (right behind the large galley cabinet where the access panel is), pulled 4' of new hose from behind the fridge to the mid-cabin, and removed the existing hose all the way back to the mid cabin.

My plan is to now replace what I can with hard PVC - behind the galley and in the access panel in the mid-cabin. I'll post pics but this job is no fun...

 

[Strecker25]

I have all the runs I could converted to hard PVC and joined with new Raritan waste hose. This job is awful, the gob of silicone has to be dug out by hand to release the hose through the bulkhead. I’m undecided if I’m talking the aft head this year or not, we’ll see

 

[dtfeld]

I'm next year on this job for sure!!

However, id love to see a drawing of wher you used hard vs flexible pipe.

 

[Strecker25]

I'm next year on this job for sure!!

However, id love to see a drawing of wher you used hard vs flexible pipe.

absolutely, I can do that. Quick summary is hard pipe behind the galley down the port side (behind galley cabinets) and in the mid cabin all the way through the bulkhead to where the holding tank is. I used about 16’ of hard pipe and 13-14’ of soft hose.

aside from, I think, being superior in the straight runs…it saves a ton of money. At $17/ft for the soft hose and about $12 for 10’ of pvc it was worth the hassle of gluing a couple pieces together

 

[exsailer]

absolutely, I can do that. Quick summary is hard pipe behind the galley down the port side (behind galley cabinets) and in the mid cabin all the way through the bulkhead to where the holding tank is. I used about 16’ of hard pipe and 13-14’ of soft hose.

aside from, I think, being superior in the straight runs…it saves a ton of money. At $17/ft for the soft hose and about $12 for 10’ of pvc it was worth the hassle of gluing a couple pieces together

That job has to be the nastiest of the nasty. I will have nightmares for months now. Great work though.

 

[dtfeld]

I have one DC breaker marked "Refrigeration/Freezer." That one 15amp DC breaker runs the cockpit refrigerator, salon freezer, and salon refrigerator-3-compressors as freezer and frig are separate units.

Bennett

I traced the cockpit fridge outlet in my boat back to the Starboard Systems breaker. On my boat, that breaker is fed by the inverter, so I needed to rewire that small fridge so it will run of dc battery power when not on shore power.

25' of 14-3 marine wire pulled yesterday, and I'll just wire into the outlet that feeds the galley fridge/freezer and they will both be on the Fridge/Freezer AC breaker. Why that wasnt the case, I'm not sure, but it looks to have been wired at the factory that way.

 

[Stee6043]

This may seem obvious to some but there truly isn't a straight surface around the floors of our boats ANYWHERE! Nada, every conceivable way to change angles, curves, they've all been utilized.

This was about 2.5 hours of work for me yesterday by the time I got started (took about hour of measuring, drawing, thinking before I made that first move). Weird angles behind the door, getting under the door, the angle on that couch. It's as wonderful as I imagined it might be...and I'm just barely getting started.

 

[Strecker25]

This may seem obvious to some but there truly isn't a straight surface around the floors of our boats ANYWHERE! Nada, every conceivable way to change angles, curves, they've all been utilized.

This was about 2.5 hours of work for me yesterday by the time I got started (took about hour of measuring, drawing, thinking before I made that first move). Weird angles behind the door, getting under the door, the angle on that couch. It's as wonderful as I imagined it might be...and I'm just barely getting started.

this triggers my project ptsd. Looking good!

 

[dtfeld]

This may seem obvious to some but there truly isn't a straight surface around the floors of our boats ANYWHERE! Nada, every conceivable way to change angles, curves, they've all been utilized.

This was about 2.5 hours of work for me yesterday by the time I got started (took about hour of measuring, drawing, thinking before I made that first move). Weird angles behind the door, getting under the door, the angle on that couch. It's as wonderful as I imagined it might be...and I'm just barely getting started.

Curious how your going to handle the floor hatches. I have a bunch of very nice LVP left over from a basement remodel that looks a lot like what you have. Figuring out how to do the hatches keeps me from digging into this

That and removing the carpet!!

 

[bbwhitejr]

Curious how your going to handle the floor hatches. I have a bunch of very nice LVP left over from a basement remodel that looks a lot like what you have. Figuring out how to do the hatches keeps me from digging into this

That and removing the carpet!!

I concur 100%....the upfront cost seems minimal except for my labor.....

Bennett

 

[scott1956]

Anybody have a source for this 2" female npt to 1 1/4" slip fit. Owe by the way that 2" is swivel type connector. I can Mcgyver something just wondering whats out there. Tried FP-no joy.

Looks like a sink drain. I just went throught this with my bilge hoses. I forget the size but they were 1 1/4 while all the new stuff is 1" ( I may have the domensions wrong) I soaked the old ones in boilng water, removed the fitting the reversed the process to use the heat to spften the fittengs and attach to the new hoses. Perhaps you can do the same here.

 

[scott1956]

I have all the runs I could converted to hard PVC and joined with new Raritan waste hose. This job is awful, the gob of silicone has to be dug out by hand to release the hose through the bulkhead. I’m undecided if I’m talking the aft head this year or not, we’ll see

View attachment 139371 View attachment 139372 View attachment 139373

I spent 3 hours on my 401 DA today planning out the same job. Was the line from the front head to the factory coupler held in place by any cable ties? My biggest fear is not being able to get the old hoses out. The rear head might actually be easier. Remove the couch coushin on the starboard side and you will see a panel held in place with 5 screws. Remove this panel and you will sett the starboard run. might be a pain to snake the hose through but the aft looks easier to me than the port side front head.
Scott

 

[exsailer]

Looks like a sink drain. I just went throught this with my bilge hoses. I forget the size but they were 1 1/4 while all the new stuff is 1" ( I may have the domensions wrong) I soaked the old ones in boilng water, removed the fitting the reversed the process to use the heat to spften the fittengs and attach to the new hoses. Perhaps you can do the same here.
View attachment 139465 View attachment 139466

Thank you. I was able to Mckiver it back together.

 

[Strecker25]

I spent 3 hours on my 401 DA today planning out the same job. Was the line from the front head to the factory coupler held in place by any cable ties? My biggest fear is not being able to get the old hoses out. The rear head might actually be easier. Remove the couch coushin on the starboard side and you will see a panel held in place with 5 screws. Remove this panel and you will sett the starboard run. might be a pain to snake the hose through but the aft looks easier to me than the port side front head.
Scott

the aft will definitely be easier. The first bit of hose in the forward head is not cable tied. Ours had a union joining it to the longer hose and it was accessible via an access panel in the large cabinet furthest forward in the galley. I used the old hose to pull in the new one for that section

 

[Stee6043]

Curious how your going to handle the floor hatches. I have a bunch of very nice LVP left over from a basement remodel that looks a lot like what you have. Figuring out how to do the hatches keeps me from digging into this

That and removing the carpet!!

I bought Johnny Corners for the hatches. I think it'll be fairly straight forward with the only exception being the larger center hatch. Our two hatch covers meet in the middle which creates a bit of a challenge for the corners. I have a couple ideas...haven't settled on one yet.

 

[Carver370]

I started my tunnel tab install today and I have a question for those who have done it.

How were you calculating the negative angle on the tabs with the small little hook that comes off the edge of the tunnel? I suppose I could make a straight edge and notch it out for the tunnel but there must be an easier way?

 

[Strecker25]

I started my tunnel tab install today and I have a question for those who have done it.

How were you calculating the negative angle on the tabs with the small little hook that comes off the edge of the tunnel? I suppose I could make a straight edge and notch it out for the tunnel but there must be an easier way?

I stewed on that for a while and finally spoke to Bennet who answered that, basically, it doesn't matter. As long as the tabs retract enough where you're at zero or slightly negative angle they're effectively out of the way and when fully retracted do no contribute to the running angle.

What I did was mount them at the recommended height above the tunnel (I think its 1/4"?) and then allowed them to retract to flat which gets them out of the way. Works great and one of the best mods I've done to this boat

 

[Carver370]

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you!