420/44 DB Owners Club

ES Compleat
They are both ES Compleat. One is Ethylene Glycol (50/50) and the other is Propylene Glycol (concentrate). This is what I've found online. I think i'll just carry some of the Ethylene Glycol.

The main difference between propylene glycol and ethylene is the level of toxicity and efficiency of performance. Ethylene glycol possess superior heat transfer properties due to a higher viscosity and a high boiling point whereas Propylene Glycol carries a low toxicity.
 
They are both ES Compleat. One is Ethylene Glycol (50/50) and the other is Propylene Glycol (concentrate). This is what I've found online. I think i'll just carry some of the Ethylene Glycol.

The main difference between propylene glycol and ethylene is the level of toxicity and efficiency of performance. Ethylene glycol possess superior heat transfer properties due to a higher viscosity and a high boiling point whereas Propylene Glycol carries a low toxicity.
I didn't realize that. I have CC2835 polypropylene glycol
 

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CC2835 is Ethylene Glycol. CC2830 is Propylene.
 
CC2835 is Ethylene Glycol. CC2830 is Propylene.
In the past I used Propylene ES Complete for mains and the genny. During the last service, my mechanic suggested that according to Cummins, Propylene is made for mains and Ethylene is for genny. If you don't have access to both, it's ok to to use Propylene ES Complete for mains and the genny.
 
Cummins spec's the ethylene for the QSM engines. Does the test strips work for both?
 
Cummins spec's the ethylene for the QSM engines. Does the test strips work for both?
I was always using Fleetguard test strips and they don't call for any specific type of coolant. Thus, I always considered it as valid.
 
Just checking in to see if we are up and running. This Forum thread has been quiet.

I do have a question. Does anyone know the Garmin breakdown of their model designation?

I am looking at a 64cv for my new Highfield tender. There is the Echomap 64cv and the 64cv Plus. Cannot find what the "Plus" means.

Cheers!
 
What size duck bills on a 2006 44db? Vacum not right
 
What size duck bills on a 2006 44db? Vacum not right
Are you going to do this yourself? Knock on wood but ours are doing fine but.... they do not last forever.

Wondering how much work is involved in removing the exhaust and then laying across the battery bank. It has been mentioned here before but the details of exhaust removal etc are not clear to me. I think once you are in there, Just pull the pump and work on it in a comfortable spot.

The old 380 was super easy to get to. Just remove the hatch right over the top of the tank. I also looked at a 52 DB...tank could not be easier to access.

Cheers!
 
Are you going to do this yourself? Knock on wood but ours are doing fine but.... they do not last forever.

Wondering how much work is involved in removing the exhaust and then laying across the battery bank. It has been mentioned here before but the details of exhaust removal etc are not clear to me. I think once you are in there, Just pull the pump and work on it in a comfortable spot.

The old 380 was super easy to get to. Just remove the hatch right over the top of the tank. I also looked at a 52 DB...tank could not be easier to access.

Cheers!
I was able to remove the pump on the port side without too much of an issue. I did remove the exhaust tube this past winter while the boat was out of the water for another project. with 2 people its an easy job. Not sure of water level in there though if its in water. The starboard side you would have to remove the exhaust tube to work on it. Haven't had to touch that fortunately but if I do. I'm also replacing that water heater. at the same time.
 
Are you going to do this yourself? Knock on wood but ours are doing fine but.... they do not last forever.

Wondering how much work is involved in removing the exhaust and then laying across the battery bank. It has been mentioned here before but the details of exhaust removal etc are not clear to me. I think once you are in there, Just pull the pump and work on it in a comfortable spot.

The old 380 was super easy to get to. Just remove the hatch right over the top of the tank. I also looked at a 52 DB...tank could not be easier to access.

Cheers!
No I am not doing it, got a great boat mechanic.!
 
Wondering how much work is involved in removing the exhaust and then laying across the battery bank. It has been mentioned here before but the details of exhaust removal etc are not clear to me. I think once you are in there, Just pull the pump and work on it in a comfortable spot.
Exactly why we replaced the VF with macerating toilets. The VG’s were just not serviceable where SR put them. To safely remove the exhaust you should be hauled out...or remove the tube then plug the through hull. It is technically above the water line but not by much.

Either way it turns a 30 minute job replacing duckbills into an all day affair and not something easily done sitting at a transient dock.

With the VG’s gone there is quite a bit of room back there. Thinking about adding an aux water tank on the port side to 1) add more water capacity and 2) balance out then stbd list these 44DB’s seem to have.
 
I removed the stbd pump without removing the exhaust tube. I did remove the tube to replace the water heater. I plugged the exhaust with a football from Walmart as water was coming in. It wasn’t pouring in but enough to make me nervous.
 
I removed the stbd pump without removing the exhaust tube. I did remove the tube to replace the water heater. I plugged the exhaust with a football from Walmart as water was coming in. It wasn’t pouring in but enough to make me nervous.
When we bought the boat both heads needed a rebuild. No problem. I did that myself before leaving FL for MD. A day before we were supposed to leave, the stbd side clogged and the vacuum pump failed. Later that day the port side VG refused to hold vacuum. The port side VG wasn’t getting fixed without removing the exhaust. The quote to deal with the VG’s was only $2500 less than replacing the whole mess with macerating toilets. Best money spent on the boat so far.
 
The boat was hauled yesterday so time to start fixing the crap that broke over the season. First on the list is my depth sensor seemed to have died. Not sure of existing model but it only does depth and its the one mounted centerline in the bilge. To the starb side there is another airmar unit that does speed and water temp. My depth sensor is still 0183 so would like to go with a nmea 2k unit. From what I see the 810 does speed, temp and depth. Do I just replace the centerline unit that does depth and put a blank in the other one that does speed and temp? Also open to suggestions as to better solutions other than an 810.
 
The boat was hauled yesterday so time to start fixing the crap that broke over the season. First on the list is my depth sensor seemed to have died. Not sure of existing model but it only does depth and its the one mounted centerline in the bilge. To the starb side there is another airmar unit that does speed and water temp. My depth sensor is still 0183 so would like to go with a nmea 2k unit. From what I see the 810 does speed, temp and depth. Do I just replace the centerline unit that does depth and put a blank in the other one that does speed and temp? Also open to suggestions as to better solutions other than an 810.
That is exactly what I did on our '03 420DA. It worked out very well.

Bennett
 
The boat was hauled yesterday so time to start fixing the crap that broke over the season. First on the list is my depth sensor seemed to have died. Not sure of existing model but it only does depth and its the one mounted centerline in the bilge. To the starb side there is another airmar unit that does speed and water temp. My depth sensor is still 0183 so would like to go with a nmea 2k unit. From what I see the 810 does speed, temp and depth. Do I just replace the centerline unit that does depth and put a blank in the other one that does speed and temp? Also open to suggestions as to better solutions other than an 810.

I replaced the centerline with the 810 this year. It fits the existing housing, but I plan to change the housing. The new housing has a flap design to limit the amount of water that rushes in while removing it when in the water. The speed wheel needs to be cleaned periodically. Otherwise it has an app where you can see roll and pitch which is more useful for sailboats.
 

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