420 DA Thread

Purchasing is the EASY part.....but the devil, as always, is in the details. NMEA 2000 backbone....Its not as simple to make that happen without an installer....at least not for me. And here in NJ I cant seem to find a professional electronics installer! At this point I would happily fly SRMark, ttmott and my buddy Jaybeaux in to do this install!
I had no idea what a NMEA 2000 backbone was when I did mine either. I contacted BOE marine electronics where I had purchased the Garmin. The NMEA 2000 backbone is a series of connector tees that will allow you to connect older components that are NMEA0183 to your new unit. Emily at BOE was very helpful and assembled a NMEA 2000 backbone for me and sent it to me. That plugged directly into the back of the Garmin and I was able to connect the cord from the transducer into the backbone and it worked.The DST800 transducer gives you depth, speed and water temperature displayed on the Garmin screen. If you want the sonar and fish finder features to work on the Garmin you need a different transducer. BOE can probably help with that if you want those features to work.
 
Out of any electronic installation the NMEA 2000 network is the simplest. Unless you get into some of the more complex arrangements a basic network is four simple things - The backbone and it's routing, Branch lines off of the backbone, backbone terminators, and finally a power tap. All of this is plug and play.

The Backbone - this is the main "trunk line" that is routed throughout the boat wherever you desire to connect a device. The Backbone is interrupted by branch line taps using standard NMEA 2000 tees. The important thing about a Backbone is it is a linear run from one end of the data network to the other and each end of the Backbone has a terminating resistor (Terminator) installed. I think the big thing about routing a Backbone is to plan for growth. To extend a Backbone is nothing more than removing that end's termination resistor install a connector and add an extension cable, your branch cables, then reinstall the resistor on the end of the extened backbone. Typically, you want no devices on the ends of the backbone, only the terminating resistors.

Branch Lines - Branch lines are the cables that connect to the devices you desire to integrate into the network. These are the same types of cables and connectors that are used to build the Backbone. They are connected into the Backbone using standard NMEA 2000 Tees. There are no terminating resistors on branch lines. You typically cannot do a branch line then off of that branch line tees and multiple devices, keep one device for each branch line.

Power Tap - Somewhere in the Backbone a power tap needs to be installed so the NMEA 2000 network has power. Be aware that if all of the devices are self-powered (like MFD's) a power tap is not required. However that is rare. Things like GPS antennas, Sonar transducers, any Maretron device, engine monitor devices, ancillary displays, trim tabs, rudder position sensors, etc are powered from the NEMA 2000 network and consequently require the power tap. The Power tap is nothing more than a Tee that connects into the backbone; it has a wire pigtail that needs to be connected to a fused power source (12V DC). Some desire to be able to switch the NMEA 2000 power on and off and others direct wire to the fuse/circuit breaker and keep the network always powered. If you have devices on the network that cannot be turned on and off on the device like a Sonar Transducer or GPS antenna then It is best to have a switching capability for the network power. For most of my network I have switches installed; occasionally my GPS antenna will stop sending data and a simple switch off and on will correct that.

Some of the NMEA 2000 devices require configuration and some do not. Typically a GPS antenna or Sonar transducer or rudder position sensor, for example, does not require any unique configuration to operate on the network; plug it in and use it. If however you should have two or more of the same devices on the same network you must identify them as 0, 1, 2, 3, etc so the devices that view them know which to select and obtain data from. This configuration is called "instances" (instance 0, instance 1, etc). The Instances you set for the device is associated with the device's Manufacturer's serial number so it is hard to get it confused. These configurations are encoded and maintained in the device (GPS antenna) itself. The configuration is executed through a display or programming device on the network. Every device on a network has an Instance and the default is "0". BTW, you can put any instance you desire on a device as long as they are different from each other on like devices. Another example is if you should have dual MFD's on the same network. In the setup of the MFD there is a NMEA 2000 configurator which you can establish the Instances. NMEA has establish a standard language for the data and that is is transmitted in data packets called PGN's. Any NMEA 2000 compatible device receives and transmits data using the PGN protocol. It is important to note that for the typical user and basic system installer that all of the data is autonomous and there is no user involvement required. Conflicts occur if the same PGN's are simultaneously transmitted on the network with the same Instance (ie two GPS antennas using the same instance). But, this is all simple bookkeeping during system setup.

Now, of course, there are limitations like line lengths and power demand but all of this is super easy to do. For most or our boats you will find that line lengths and limitations of power on the network will not be an issue. Really, as long as you follow the basics, you can't hurt anything. Jump in and get your feet wet.
Tom
Excellent write up and explanation
 
Any one know where the main windlass breaker is on a 420/44DA?
I was changing the rocker switch covers and think I overloaded the circuit when I hit the retrieve button one too many times. Now it won’t power up.
 
Anyone replace the microwave?.... Mine went out I have checked fuses and wiring inside the thing and cant repair it.....no small appliance repair place will touch it. I did find a Galanz thats almost the perfect size but seems to be discontinued....However I did get an email this morning saying its on the way but thats happened before.
 
Anyone replace the microwave?.... Mine went out I have checked fuses and wiring inside the thing and cant repair it.....no small appliance repair place will touch it. I did find a Galanz thats almost the perfect size but seems to be discontinued....However I did get an email this morning saying its on the way but thats happened before.

Sold the boat 2-weeks ago, but the microwave had been replaced with a Kenmore that fit and worked perfect.

Bennett
 
Anyone replace the microwave?.... Mine went out I have checked fuses and wiring inside the thing and cant repair it.....no small appliance repair place will touch it. I did find a Galanz thats almost the perfect size but seems to be discontinued....However I did get an email this morning saying its on the way but thats happened before.

Don't know what size yours is Blue, but I recently replaced mine with a Breville.
 
Don't know what size yours is Blue, but I recently replaced mine with a Breville.
My problem is the height…. They are all coming in 1” higher when I find the right width….. Breville and Kenmore I have not looked at….so maybe better luck…. Of course she wants air fry and convection which isn’t helping.
 
My problem is the height…. They are all coming in 1” higher when I find the right width….. Breville and Kenmore I have not looked at….so maybe better luck…. Of course she wants air fry and convection which isn’t helping.
If you can find a Kenmore 'Elite' that fits. Get it.
 
My problem is the height…. They are all coming in 1” higher when I find the right width….. Breville and Kenmore I have not looked at….so maybe better luck…. Of course she wants air fry and convection which isn’t helping.

Be careful with the air fry and convection part as they get majorly hot on top. We had convection in the 44DB and one day I was on the dock and the vent inside was on while the wife was using convection. I walked over and put my hand in front of the vent and I was shocked at how hot the air was coming out. That has always bothered me. Maybe some insulation on top between the top of the unit and the cabinet would help, but it got very hot.

Bennett
 
My problem is the height…. They are all coming in 1” higher when I find the right width….. Breville and Kenmore I have not looked at….so maybe better luck…. Of course she wants air fry and convection which isn’t helping.
On @TNT8808 recommendation, I put in the Breville Combi Wave 3 in 1. BMO870. Perfect fit on the 48. Does everything your Admiral is requesting.

Jaybeaux
 
Well the back ordered, discontinued, manufacturer never heard of that model damn microwave arrived today.
What it looks like when it takes over your conference table at work

B3F47C56-8E7B-46ED-A6F3-9BCEEC53B963.jpeg
 
Be careful with the air fry and convection part as they get majorly hot on top. We had convection in the 44DB and one day I was on the dock and the vent inside was on while the wife was using convection. I walked over and put my hand in front of the vent and I was shocked at how hot the air was coming out. That has always bothered me. Maybe some insulation on top between the top of the unit and the cabinet would help, but it got very hot.

Bennett
It air fried today for 30mintues and the vent didnt get warm at all and it was blowing pretty good. The glass out front was kind of warm….nothing under the tv above…. So I think I am good to go
 

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