420 DA Thread

Happy to say my vent has been trouble free. The clock on my smart craft is on the fritz. It just stops. Other issue is water in the salon bilge . Its coming from the cockpit a/c condensate hose. ( it drips from the chaff protection hose ) So is it condensation off the hose then running out of the blk sleeve ?? oh and my salon a/c unit was under charged. I broke the seal on the service fittings hooked up gauges and sure enough .... short on gas.... WTF,,,,, So i topped off my charge and shes kicking tail....


Rob
 
LOL good point .... my luck though....

Had an issue with the A/c in one of my cars years ago... The sensor for the electric condensor fan kept going bad... they told me like a few weeks for the part ... Id have no a/c .... they coouldnt give me a loaner that long... screw u.. I borrowed a mechaincs pliers.. In the dealership bay I cut the wires to the sensor connected them to the fan and amazing ... the fan runs ... SIr u cant do that ...... why ?

ummmmm..... yea i thought so.... well a year later truck was consumed with more gremlins so i sold it ... ( sun roof would open when u unlock or lock the doors ) no big deal except in the rain... Wife was not happy...

Rob
 
Looking forward to this weekend - if weather cooperates - heading across the lake from MKE to Michigan - 90 miles - open water! Then doing 3 different towns - Thur / Fri / Sat - home on Sunday...will be first big cruise of the year...
 
Great Week

We just returned from a great week on Lake Michigan. I thought I would post some numbers. We had several times where we ran 4 or 5 hours. We cruised mostly at 28 mph, burning 30 gph. This was with full fuel and water and 2 people. The Cummins 480CE's were running at 2210 rpm.

The only problem was with the SRN Radar. While we were crossing Lake Michigan, the radar dropped out. I had to reboot the SRN to get it back. I will be calling Maptech today to see what I can do. Any ideas? My guess is that Windows has something to do with it. :wink:
 
Gervie -
We must have passed each other by over the weekend!!

I was in South Haven, Saugatuck, and then Grand Haven - went over Thur - came home Sunday!

WE cruised at 2400 RPM's - 31 to 32 mph's - 38 GPH. COming home SUnday was beautiful - not a ripple on the lake.

Regarding your SRN system - this is the problem I had last year - did you have it on, (including the power switches on dashboard for electric / radar) when you started the boat? If so - that will cause that problem. You have to have it all OFF.

I am still having a odd problem with the autopilot - but not the end of the world.

Other than that - boat ran great all weekend long!
 
Re: Great Week

Gervie said:
The only problem was with the SRN Radar. While we were crossing Lake Michigan, the radar dropped out. I had to reboot the SRN to get it back. I will be calling Maptech today to see what I can do. Any ideas? My guess is that Windows has something to do with it. :wink:
Click to expand...

I have had this happen 3 or 4 times this year. Rebooting was the only solution. I know Maptech has a newer software version than what I am using...maybe that is the key...
 
I always start the engines then turn on the electronics because I have had other boats that are sensitive to voltage drops.

Cuttin' Edge - too bad we didn't hookup. I was lucky to meet Salty Dog again in Frankfurt. We are looking forward to seeing each other again in Elk Rapids. Are you able to make it?

SeaRM - I have the latest software update installed. I was going to call Maptech today but got caught up in cleaning the boat after our trip. I am going to call them tomorrow to see what can be done. I depend on radar for safe boating and don't need it going out at the wrong time. It will be expensive to replace it so I hope they have an answer.
 
We too just completed 9 days aboard. Ran about 400 NM total, some of it in 3 and 4 footers and a lot of wind. In these conditions I achieved the highest GPH burn figure we have seen so far-about 24.5 GPH over a three hour run down the Potomac to the Chesapeake Bay, then south to the Rappahannock River. My typical usage is around 20.5 GPH; but the big girl was working harder against wind, current, and seas and I was turning around 2250 RPMs to get the Admiral to the resort and spa we had reservations for down on the Rappahannock.
No problems all week. While the Admiral hit the spa I cleaned stainless steel, put some wax on the foredeck, and did other boat therapy. Got in the water and cleaned the scum line off, hit the isenglass with 303, etc. All stuff I find relaxing. I am also pleased that after paying closer attention to my engine room clamps this year, the bilge stays completely dry.
No issues with the vent at this time. I did hit all the rubber gaskets around the vent, windshield panes, and foredeck "moon roof" with silicone spray to keep the rubber supple. That seems to help the vent sticking problem.
My only complaint is that on plane in rougher conditions the SRN depth finder/transducer does not maintain a steady depth reading. Does anyone else have the same issue? No big deal as I just watch chart depth--but a minor irritant nonetheless.
One final note--after 9 days of showers aboard with my family of 4, the shower sump stayed pretty clean by adding a couple ounces of biodegradeable bilge cleaner to each shower drain every few days. The motion of the boat kept the cleaner working. I hope to only clean the sump during winterization if this pattern holds.

Really, really like this boat, and am awfully lucky to own her.

regards
Skip
 
Hey Skip, glad you had a wonderful vacation. I was looking at your crusing grounds on the map and hope to get there some day. I hear Annapolis is beautiful.
Just wanted to say that like you my depth transducer starts acting funny in a bit of chop while on plane. I am sure that this is common.

On a side note, I just had an inverter installed on my boat since we spend alot of time on the hook. I will let you guys know how it works out.

We are doing a cruise of the North Channel (Canada) in July. Should be around 17 days and will cover around 500 miles. My fingers are crossed.
 
Steve,
Are you carrying spare racors and clean diesel fuel aboard in the event you have to swap your filters while you are traveling? I had to swap racor elements every 40 hours last season until I got my fuel system cleaned up; no problems this year.
previous owner was just not much for fuel system attention.

Skip
 
Skip, we boat in beautiful Canadian Northern waters. Not only do we not carry spare Racors but people at our Marina change them every 3-4 years.
I know that is bad but they are as clear as water. The Marinas all buy from Name brand petroleum companies such as Shell and Exxon and I have not heard of anyone having bad fuel. With all the large boats at our marina, I guess they go through fuel rather quickly.
You should come up to Canada and visit. Nothing beats it in the summer.
$5000.00 will get your boat trucked up here.
 
Guys ,
Want to just share a odd experience. I was having a rough idling condition on my stb motor. Marina was all over the boat. Checking props , alignment etc... IT was real rough at idle I engaged the slow idle 550 rpm ud think the boat was going to shake itself to pieces. Boat ran bad up to about 1000 rpm then ran like a champ. u could see the engine always hunting at low rpm ( up and down )
Cummins comes down with in 15 mins of being on the boat says I have a partially clogged fuel filter. No one agreed thinking the problem would be at top end with a clogged filter... Tech changed primary and secondary... purrs like a kitten ...

FYI

Rob
 
Rob,
Great info. I did my Racors last November and did the 2 micron elements on the engines as well. Treated with Diesl 9-1-1 at layup, and then did a shock biocide treatment in March. I've done a maintenance dose since then with each fill up, and have added Power Service Diesel Kleen to compensate for ULSD in my older mechanical engines.

The Racor bowls are pretty clean, with a very slight black sediment in a few spots. I plan to run 'em until winterization--hopefully another 80 hours or so!

Skip
 
Skip, I was just looking at one of your older posts where you mention that looking closer at your clamps has resulted in a drier bilge.
Can you please tell me which clamps I should be looking at closely as I am getting water near my forward bilge (under the a/c water pump) as well as under my shafts and in my rear bilge. Its not alot of water but it does bother me (this is all in the engine room). I hope I am not asking a stupid question as the natural thing would be to tighten all clamps on the lines directly above where the water accumulates but I was just wondering is there were some key clamps to look out for.
Thanks.
 
Guys ,
I wish i was selling my boat. There is no money to upsize... Plus i dont know what i would upsize too . Remember now i Boat in a sand box that they call the south shore of long island. ( On a good day theres 4 feet under my boat . )
It happens that I do know the owner of that dancer thats for sale , he's very anal on its up keep.

Any one having an issue with there interior doors not closing properly?

I had to trim the door strike on the mid cabin head, No i have to do it on the fwd head.

Skip,
Hows the anchor ?


Rob
 
Steve,
No dumb questions here. The way fwebster explained this to me is that diesels (especially my older C series) really vibrate a lot, whcih leads to loosened clamps everywhere. My principal leaks were in my exhaust system and perko strainers (they have bolts running vertically which can be tightened). It is a useful drill to begin on one engine, move forward to aft, and put a wrench on every clamp...clearly you do not want to overtighten, just ensure they are snug. Get every clamp in your engine room. Once done, your bilge water problems will probably be resolved. If not, ride in the engine room with appropriate ear protection and see if you can find the leaks.
I also replaced the main and gen set raw water intake hoses, as they were beginning to crack. When I installed the new hoses, I (again with fwebsters' coaching) used a 3M adhesive that Sea Ray techs refer to as "Gorilla Snot" it is thick, viscous adhesive that helps the hoses slide onto the fitting then locks the hose in place. You can break the seal but it is tough. Gorilla snot helps minimize leaks, even if your calms get loose. I also recommend you check the fresh water fittings, as they can work loose too. I just replaced my fresh water pump and failed to tighten a fitting, and was rewareded with a persistent drip when the system was pressurized.

regards
Skip
 
Skip said:
Steve,
No dumb questions here. The way fwebster explained this to me is that diesels (especially my older C series) really vibrate a lot, whcih leads to loosened clamps everywhere. My principal leaks were in my exhaust system and perko strainers (they have bolts running vertically which can be tightened). It is a useful drill to begin on one engine, move forward to aft, and put a wrench on every clamp...clearly you do not want to overtighten, just ensure they are snug. Get every clamp in your engine room. Once done, your bilge water problems will probably be resolved. If not, ride in the engine room with appropriate ear protection and see if you can find the leaks.
I also replaced the main and gen set raw water intake hoses, as they were beginning to crack. When I installed the new hoses, I (again with fwebsters' coaching) used a 3M adhesive that Sea Ray techs refer to as "Gorilla Snot" it is thick, viscous adhesive that helps the hoses slide onto the fitting then locks the hose in place. You can break the seal but it is tough. Gorilla snot helps minimize leaks, even if your calms get loose. I also recommend you check the fresh water fittings, as they can work loose too. I just replaced my fresh water pump and failed to tighten a fitting, and was rewareded with a persistent drip when the system was pressurized.

regards
Skip
Click to expand...

What's that adhesive called? I see SR uses it also on all the a/c and sump hose connections. It's kinda yellowish and rubbry, right??
 
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