500/520 DB official thread

My units are 17 years old. Had an almost rebuild of every seal in the master 3 years ago. Guest is probably coming in the off season. I'll take a look at this. I wonder what install is like? M

I'm waiting for a detailed quote, but on the phone he said they basically rip out all the vacuum components, install new toilet, and plumb it straight to the tank. He claims that the MasterFlush requires virtually no maintenance. I also wonder if it can use regular TP since it has a macerator.
 
As a result of periodic cycling on one of the vacuflush units, I had a tech come out. Every time I do this, regardless of the company, they pitch me hard on ditching the vacuflush and replacing it with an electric macerator system. While I get annoyed with the sales pitch, I'm starting to think about replacing the units. They're 12 years old, and they require a decent bit of service every 2 years, and as they age need more new parts.

I'm wondering what the pros and cons of switching are. This company is recommending the MasterFlush product - https://marinesan.com/masterflush-8120-short/

Any insights appreciated.
When the Vacuflush is properly maintained it is the best in my opinion. One of my boat neighbors down the dock has a macerator based system which uses the seawater and I think it always smells bad in the head. The macerator system always has effluent in the hoses especially if the holding tank is higher than the pump which most are. The Vacuflush has a remote vacuum generator which does a pretty good job evacuating the effluent betweeen the head and pump. But, I think every system has it's pluses and minuses - For me I know the system well and how to work on it so I'll stay with the vacuflush.
 
When the Vacuflush is properly maintained it is the best in my opinion. One of my boat neighbors down the dock has a macerator based system which uses the seawater and I think it always smells bad in the head. The macerator system always has effluent in the hoses especially if the holding tank is higher than the pump which most are. The Vacuflush has a remote vacuum generator which does a pretty good job evacuating the effluent betweeen the head and pump. But, I think every system has it's pluses and minuses - For me I know the system well and how to work on it so I'll stay with the vacuflush.

Thank you for the input.

The system he is proposing uses fresh water, not sea water.
 
When the Vacuflush is properly maintained it is the best in my opinion.

I agree 100%. We've had vacuflush for over 7 years in our last 2 boats. Sure, things break, but other than some pump motor and bellows, it's been flawless with minimal effort. Liberal use of Noflex and CPP, and nothing else.

Tim
 
I’m having a difficult time finding someone to make repairs to the toilet itself (I am able to make repairs to the pump myself). there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the toilet, and these companies only want to use the full rebuild kit, which is $1000, rather than take it apart.
 
I’m having a difficult time finding someone to make repairs to the toilet itself (I am able to make repairs to the pump myself). there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the toilet, and these companies only want to use the full rebuild kit, which is $1000, rather than take it apart.
The Vacuflush are super simple to take apart and put together. Two screws and the peddle comes off. Unsnap the base collar and work it off and around the base. Turn off the water and flush all of the water out of the bowl. There is a band clamp and two "C" clamps holding the bowl on the base. Loosen the band clamp and slide it down then remove the two C clamps. Rock the bowl forward and reach behind and pull the fill hose and siphon out of the grommet then remove the bowl. The bowl sits on a gasket and ball seal - note their orientation and how they are clocked on the base - that gasket and ball seal should be replaced.
Disconnect the water supply line from the flush valve.
Remove the four nuts holding the base onto the floor mount then lift up the base and remove.
There is a foam gasket on that floor mount that should be replaced.
On the base remove the screws, peddle return spring, and the flush valve. Then remove the ball and ballshaft. The ball shaft has O-rings on it that seal it to the base. There is a ball and ballshaft kit.
You'll be into it for $300 in parts. When reassembling use no lubricants, sealants, or greases except for a dab of silicone grease on the ball shaft O-rings to get them to slide in place.
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/content/pdfs/506.pdf
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/500-series-parts/?sort=featured&page=1
 
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The Vacuflush are super simple to take apart and put together. Two screws and the peddle comes off. Unsnap the base collar and work it off and around the base. Turn off the water and flush all of the water out of the bowl. There is a band clamp and two "C" clamps holding the bowl on the base. Loosen the band clamp and slide it down then remove the two C clamps. Rock the bowl forward and reach behind and pull the fill hose and siphon out of the grommet then remove the bowl. The bowl sits on a gasket and ball seal - note their orientation and how they are clocked on the base - that gasket and ball seal should be replaced.
Disconnect the water supply line from the flush valve.
Remove the four nuts holding the base onto the floor mount then lift up the base and remove.
There is a foam gasket on that floor mount that should be replaced.
On the base remove the screws, peddle return spring, and the flush valve. Then remove the ball and ballshaft. The ball shaft has O-rings on it that seal it to the base. There is a ball and ballshaft kit.
You'll be into it for $300 in parts. When reassembling use no lubricants, sealants, or greases except for a dab of silicone grease on the ball shaft O-rings to get them to slide in place.
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/content/pdfs/506.pdf
https://www.environmentalmarine.com/500-series-parts/?sort=featured&page=1
And you don't have "waste" to deal with in the bowl.
 
I'm going in. Starting the first phase to move the boat to lithium batteries. Just got the battery monitors and control hub for the system. To the boat today to start laying out the equipment. I'm hoping this is going to be easier than working on the Vacuflush system...
IMG_7093.jpg
 
2100 RPM is great if calm seas. Not possible if rough. Anyway, I took 2 inches out and had 0 change. I am above 20GPH but below 1000 degrees at 2000rpm.


Mike, being up on the Great Lakes I would think your average EWT
(Entering water temperatures) would be less than most Southerners along with fresh water vs Salt water?
 
I'm going in. Starting the first phase to move the boat to lithium batteries. Just got the battery monitors and control hub for the system. To the boat today to start laying out the equipment. I'm hoping this is going to be easier than working on the Vacuflush system...
View attachment 133853

Where will you mount the Victron Screen?
 
Mike, being up on the Great Lakes I would think your average EWT
(Entering water temperatures) would be less than most Southerners along with fresh water vs Salt water?
Lake temps are in the 70's. I don't know if that makes much difference.
 
Where will you mount the Victron Screen?
I just finished getting it installed last night. The screen is above the switches at the entry and the Cerbo right under the seat cushion at the entry. Sometime today I'll get VRM up and running and set up the Smartshunts.
I did notice my Maretron tank level sensors on NMEA 2000 are showing up on the Victron system. What I don't really like is the VE.Direct connectors do not stay in their sockets well enought - they don't "click" in and are retained.
IMG_7102.jpg
IMG_7099zoomed.jpg

IMG_7101.jpg
 
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Cool. What are using to measure your A/C Loads? I surprising see loads on the Starboard/Starter Battery when running my Blowers, actually both batteries show a load when the Blowers are on. I thought there was nothing on the Starboard battery except the starter. Maybe I need to check the wiring of my Shunt. I am only using one shunt and instead of the (battery) Temperature Probe I have it set up to read the Starter Battery.

Blowers Off-

99D4EFEF-6621-4A29-BD10-C3711D664363.png


Blowers On-

E38D3716-7F1F-4D96-9E68-64F81EE03876.png
 
Cool. What are using to measure your A/C Loads? I surprising see loads on the Starboard/Starter Battery when running my Blowers, actually both batteries show a load when the Blowers are on. I thought there was nothing on the Starboard battery except the starter. Maybe I need to check the wiring of my Shunt. I am only using one shunt and instead of the (battery) Temperature Probe I have it set up to read the Starter Battery.

Blowers Off-

View attachment 134118

Blowers On-

View attachment 134119
That AC load data is from a small 250W Victron Phoenix inverter that powers the boat's camera system; it's data is sent to the Cerbo via VE.Direct cable.
On the blowers, they pull from both battery banks. Take a look at the main circuit breaker panel; there are breakers for the blowers on the Port and Starboard sides. Our battery banks are not traditional House/Engine batteries, they both pull a lot of other duties; look at that main breaker panel - the loads for each side are indicated there. However, one bank supplies all of the power to the panel in the Solon.
I installed one 1000A shunt on the port battery; it is powered using the fused wire directly from inside the main disconnect panel - right off the battery. The same configuration for the Starboard battery. From what I understand it is very important that the shunts be powered all of the time otherwise they will lose track of the battery SOC.

I added a 6 amp circuit breaker in the main circuit breaker panel on the Starboard Line side and routed that conductor to the Cerbo so it is also always powered unless I shut off that circuit breaker.
 
Cool. What are using to measure your A/C Loads? I surprising see loads on the Starboard/Starter Battery when running my Blowers, actually both batteries show a load when the Blowers are on. I thought there was nothing on the Starboard battery except the starter. Maybe I need to check the wiring of my Shunt. I am only using one shunt and instead of the (battery) Temperature Probe I have it set up to read the Starter Battery.

Blowers Off-

View attachment 134118

Blowers On-

View attachment 134119
How did you set up your Shunts?
Battery Capacity -
Peukert Exponent -
Discharge Floor -
 
@rlynch03 - also do you know how to enable "Remote Console on VRM" and enable "Two way communication"?
I just can't seem to access any page either on Bluetooth or VRM to enable.
fix Victron Disabled.jpg
 
@rlynch03 - also do you know how to enable "Remote Console on VRM" and enable "Two way communication"?
I just can't seem to access any page either on Bluetooth or VRM to enable.
View attachment 134162

Try enabling “SuperUser” in the below screen. Setting>General
It’s been a while so I have forgotten some of this…

EC8080D1-A013-45DF-AEED-A7E205DC825E.jpeg
 

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