58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[carterchapman]

MAN V8-900 CRM (D 2848 LE 423) OIL CHANGES



On a related note: I just spoke with our new-to-be MAN guy up here on the Chesapeake… and he verbally recommended oil changes for “typical pleasure boaters” every 250 hours… NOT the 400 hours (or 1 year, whichever comes first?) specified in the MAN manual. He said he had some offshore charter customers that change every 150 hours, but that’s harder usage than what we’d routinely see.

-Chris

Somewhere I found a MAN bulletin that changed the 400 hrs to 200...that's also what Wendel at GCD recommended.

 

[ranger58sb]

Couldn't find it at TSC online, but WMonline has it - free delivery

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-De...hetic-Diesel-Engine-Oil-15W-40-2-5G/996900308

Nice. A few weeks ago, all they had was 1 gallon bottles, so I had a few delivered in case I need to add some. The free delivery is good.

Edit: I just noticed that's 15w-40, not 5w-40. The gallon bottles I had delivered were 5w-40... and I think it was circa $35/gallon.

Edit again: it was $33/gallon.

 

[ranger58sb]

Somewhere I found a MAN bulletin that changed the 400 hrs to 200...that's also what Wendel at GCD recommended.

That'd be nifty to have. Do you still have it?

 

[missnmountains]

Both my old MAN Guys (fired) and Scott Marine Power use Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic. They are able to get in in 5 Gallon Buckets.

$428.50 Here: https://www.thelubricantstore.com/mobil-delvac-1-esp-5w40-pail

Ken

 

[ranger58sb]

Both my old MAN Guys (fired) and Scott Marine Power use Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 5W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic. They are able to get in in 5 Gallon Buckets.

$428.50 Here: https://www.thelubricantstore.com/mobil-delvac-1-esp-5w40-pail

Ken

Not a great price....

Edit: Compare to Rotella T6 at $70 in 2.5 gallon jugs from TSC... or to Delvac 1 ESP at $33 in 1 gallon bottles and free delivery from Walmart.

Given we need approx 18 gallons for an oil change... that'd be about $560 for 20 gallons of T6 or about $660 for 20 gallons of ESP.

 

[550 DB]

Hmmm.. maybe I don't have a real leak then. (I could dream.) It only pumps a few times/day... although I haven't paid strict attention to frequency.

-Chris

Our PO put a switch on the dash panel to shut off the compressor when not under way, and let you sleep at night.
Leaks were tough to stop completely

 

[550 DB]

Agree on the checking the cleanliness. If that checks out, and the tracks look good with no excessive wear or damage, check the vertical end play. Grasp the door handles firmly and lift the door up and down while at both the area where it works well, and where it does not. Let us know what you find.

Ours sides fine, but the catch only works to keep the door closed, but not maintain the lock when you turn the handle. There is a catch adjustment which I have the catch at it's highest position. Is there another adjustment to either the full for height or the amount of play in the lockset when locked?

 

[550 DB]

I forgot to add that these higher end fridge freezer units are easily repaired. It's one advantage of the cheaper units that aren't easily repaired. We just had our fridge repaired, it would not stay cool all the time.

We had our sub-zero recharged. Standard refrigerator / freezer repair shop/tech can handle

 

[ranger58sb]

WASHER/DRYER REPLACEMENT

Has anyone replaced their splendide 2000s washer/dryer and what did you replace it with. I’m going to replace mine and looking for recommendations.

Robert, did you replace? What with? And how did get access to pull the old out/put the new in? Looks like maybe the trim might unscrew for removal? Your thoughts?

-Chris

 

[bmac]

MAN V8-900 CRM (D 2848 LE 423) OIL CHANGES

The 2005 MAN manual for V8-900 CRMs specifies lube oil standard M 3277. The manual only lists two approved engine oils for the U.S. Market: Mobil Delvac 1 SHC (SAE 5w-40, newest API CF) and Mobil Delvac XHP Extra (SAE 10w40, newest API CI-4). If unapproved oils must be used, MAN says they should meet API CF-4, CG-4, CH-4, or CI-4. When we had our engines brought back into compliance with MAN’s recommended service regime, Gulf Coast Diesel used Mobil Delvac 1 ESP (SAE 5w-40, newest -- current -- API CK-4).

I’ve not seen the first two available on the market, but at least Mobil cites their Delvac ESP meets the MAN 3277 specification. OTOH, I was only finding this in 1-gallon bottles; Tractor Supply at one time carried 2.5-gallon jugs, but apparently none have been available recently.

Seemed odd to me so few lube oils would be appropriate, so I went searching a bit. First, Performance Diesel sent me a newer 2015 doc which adds MAN’s 3377 spec for our engines… but that doc doesn’t actually list any actual products. That document cites a MAN URL for additional engine oil info, but it’s a dead link. Then I found a 2009 MAN memo online that lists lube oils that meet their 3277 standard. LOTS to choose from, including the Delvacs. (See attached.)

The Shell Rimula brand is what’s generally sold here as Rotella. Rimula M6 M (SAE 10w-40) is what’s sold here as Rotella T6 (SAE 5w-40, API CK-4). Rotella T6 5w-40 cites compliance with MAN 3575, no mention of 3277 or 3377. (I don’t know whether some of MAN’s specs are backwards-inclusive or not. 3575 may include 3377 and 3277, but I haven’t found a citation for that. The 2015 doc does not mention 3575.)

Anyway, a couple weeks ago Tractor Supply did indeed have Rotella T6 5w-40 in stock in 2.5-gallon jugs.

On a related note: I just spoke with our new-to-be MAN guy up here on the Chesapeake… and he verbally recommended oil changes for “typical pleasure boaters” every 250 hours… NOT the 400 hours (or 1 year, whichever comes first?) specified in the MAN manual. He said he had some offshore charter customers that change every 150 hours, but that’s harder usage than what we’d routinely see.

-Chris

I used Shell Rotella T6 5w40 in my MAN's, T6 15w40 in my Generator and T1 40W in my Transmissions. I always bought it online from Walmart, delivered to the house free. Oil and filters (including the transmissions) were changed every fall, never had a bad oil sample come back. Rotella satisfies all the MAN requirements and is readily available. Annual oil and filter changes are cheap insurance.

 

[carterchapman]

When TSC had the 2.5 gallon jugs last year they were only $52 - a good price! My "MAN man" charged $40 per gallon. The WM free delivery price of $53 is a deal...

 

[carterchapman]

Ours sides fine, but the catch only works to keep the door closed, but not maintain the lock when you turn the handle. There is a catch adjustment which I have the catch at it's highest position. Is there another adjustment to either the full for height or the amount of play in the lockset when locked?

As far as I know, you have the latch striker adjustment and then door height adjustments using the top and bottom rollers. When I FINALLY got my latch striker adjusted, I used some locktite on the adjusting screws - been good for a year now...

 

[ranger58sb]

Annual oil and filter changes are cheap insurance.

I agree... but have to admit I'm of two minds just now... given that the synthetic lube oil seems to last so much longer and swapping early makes me feel sorta like I'd be wasting it to change every year.

I last had oil samples analyzed at 128 hours, lab says still good to go for another 50+ hours at least...

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

That'd be nifty to have. Do you still have it?

I'm still looking...

 

[bmac]

I agree... but have to admit I'm of two minds just now... given that the synthetic lube oil seems to last so much longer and swapping early makes me feel sorta like I'd be wasting it to change every year.

I last had oil samples analyzed at 128 hours, lab says still good to go for another 50+ hours at least...

-Chris

I don't disagree with any of that thought process, synthetic lube oil stand up to friction wear much better than dino oils, BUT, if the boat is laid up over the winter and you've got warm, then cold, then warm, then cold humid moist air.....the condensation could be the killer. I never let it go over a winter so I don't really know but wasn't willing to find out. Maybe you're far enough south it's not an issue.

 

[550 DB]

As far as I know, you have the latch striker adjustment and then door height adjustments using the top and bottom rollers. When I FINALLY got my latch striker adjusted, I used some locktite on the adjusting screws - been good for a year now...

Thanks Carter,

The strike is at it's max, and holds the door closed, but if you wiggle/rotate the handle enough (there is some rotational play) when locked, the latch will jump the catch and the door can open (i.e. pseudo locking) not sure if there is an adjustment in the lock itself to prevent the bit of hands rotation or just try to lower the door a bit? I also can see that the door isn't perfectly parallel with the jam, even though it slides and engages acceptably, might be a cause?

 

[missnmountains]

Thanks Carter,

The strike is at it's max, and holds the door closed, but if you wiggle/rotate the handle enough (there is some rotational play) when locked, the latch will jump the catch and the door can open (i.e. pseudo locking) not sure if there is an adjustment in the lock itself to prevent the bit of hands rotation or just try to lower the door a bit? I also can see that the door isn't perfectly parallel with the jam, even though it slides and engages acceptably, might be a cause?

I had the exact same issue with ours. Firstly, I used needle nose pliers to raise the frame catch as high as it would go. Still would open when locked. Secondly, I lowered the door ever so slightly until it caught without opening when locked.

Ken

 

[550 DB]

I had the exact same issue with ours. Firstly, I used needle nose pliers to raise the frame catch as high as it would go. Still would open when locked. Secondly, I lowered the door ever so slightly until it caught without opening when locked.

Ken

thanks, will try that

 

[techmitch]

Thanks Carter,

The strike is at it's max, and holds the door closed, but if you wiggle/rotate the handle enough (there is some rotational play) when locked, the latch will jump the catch and the door can open (i.e. pseudo locking) not sure if there is an adjustment in the lock itself to prevent the bit of hands rotation or just try to lower the door a bit? I also can see that the door isn't perfectly parallel with the jam, even though it slides and engages acceptably, might be a cause?

thanks, will try that

Definitely make sure the door is square in the frame with the adjustments on the bottom first. Then adjust the latch or catch if necessary.

 

[carterchapman]

Thanks Carter,

The strike is at it's max, and holds the door closed, but if you wiggle/rotate the handle enough (there is some rotational play) when locked, the latch will jump the catch and the door can open (i.e. pseudo locking) not sure if there is an adjustment in the lock itself to prevent the bit of hands rotation or just try to lower the door a bit? I also can see that the door isn't perfectly parallel with the jam, even though it slides and engages acceptably, might be a cause?

Mine would jump the latch as well, I took a dremel tool and ground the throat of the latch a little deeper, adjusted the door height and (shhh) it's worked perfectly for over a year now....