58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[swaterhouse]

I wish I knew that and your resource a year ago. The service tech said my evap coil had a hole in it and they were no longer available. He could try to make an aftermarket or other freezer's coil work but he would not stand behind it. He wanted to fit a new Wolf-SubZero drawer unit for just shy of $5500 plus the cost of the facing - no ice maker. Ack.
Drove me the path I took. In the end I think a better solution replacing both for less than $6500.
But then the SubZero's were new in 2006 - long in the tooth, what would fail next.

I have a 27 year old subzero at home, it's been fixed twice, once under warranty (it was just under 10 years old at the time) and again a month ago. The thermostat was bad, $500 including the service call and it's back up and running. New replacement is $14,000 and 11 month wait.

Boat had a fridge that would shut off occasionally, it was tbe coil temp sensor that was bad, $250 in total including service call.

You need to find your major SubZero repair center in your area, Quite possible there is only one of them in all of FL. Our center covers nearly all of New England. They don't sell new appliances, strictly repairs so they have no reason to point you to new.

 

[ttmott]

I have a 27 year old subzero at home, it's been fixed twice, once under warranty (it was just under 10 years old at the time) and again a month ago. The thermostat was bad, $500 including the service call and it's back up and running. New replacement is $14,000 and 11 month wait.

Boat had a fridge that would shut off occasionally, it was tbe coil temp sensor that was bad, $250 in total including service call.

You need to find your major SubZero repair center in your area, Quite possible there is only one of them in all of FL. Our center covers nearly all of New England. They don't sell new appliances, strictly repairs so they have no reason to point you to new.

We installed SubZero's when we built our house in 1992. The freezer went down in 2013 (if I remember correctly) - lost refrigerant and they couldn't repair it. So it was replaced. Bulletproof products but premium.

 

[Caloosacaptain]

Hydraulic platform question: Right now i have to hold the white switch for the platform down while I push on and then choose up or down on the remote. If i release the white switch the remote turns off. Is this normal or could something be wrong? I thought I would be able to flip the white switch and then the remote would work. Thoughts? Hopefully this made sense.

 

[Njlarry]

There is a 30 or 60 second time out on the white switch. Possibly yours is bad? Finding people locally to service them is a nightmare. Good luck.

 

[Njlarry]

EEL power cords?
Need to replace one of my shore power cords. Have two for home slip and two for transient so not interested in replacement of all four with smart plug. The one hand instant locking feature of the EEL cords are appealing. Do the lager diameter heads fit both through the trunk ports on on the connections in the trunk?
Anyone here have experience with them?

 

[missnmountains]

Finally!!! We just got Miss N Mountains hauled post Ian. Per our insurance adjuster, the damage is definitely over our $75,000 deductible. The yard (Diversified Yacht Service) says it is going to take 2 months for repairs. The good news is there was no damage to the running gear. Lots of fiberglass, gel coat, striping, entire rub rail on the starboard side (both the plastic and stainless), and all of our canvas and bridge glass. Even the little polycarbonate window in the front broke. This after doing all of the engine service and bottom work in May. We never got a chance to take a trip before the storm.

I can post pics if someone will tell me how to.

Ken

 

[carterchapman]

Finally!!! We just got Miss N Mountains hauled post Ian. Per our insurance adjuster, the damage is definitely over our $75,000 deductible. The yard (Diversified Yacht Service) says it is going to take 2 months for repairs. The good news is there was no damage to the running gear. Lots of fiberglass, gel coat, striping, entire rub rail on the starboard side (both the plastic and stainless), and all of our canvas and bridge glass. Even the little polycarbonate window in the front broke. This after doing all of the engine service and bottom work in May. We never got a chance to take a trip before the storm.

I can post pics if someone will tell me how to.

Ken

That took every bit of the 6m month estimate you got right after Ian! I know you'll be glad to have her back in two months.

Everything done at your house?

 

[missnmountains]

Yep. Still need ceilings in the house and a complete dock. Only way the boat stayed in place after the storm was that we dropped two anchors off the bow and ran a bunch of long lines to a few remaining pilings and trees. We now have a roof, gutters, pool cage and fence. Very slow progress.

Ken

 

[carterchapman]

Yep. Still need ceilings in the house and a complete dock. Only way the boat stayed in place after the storm was that we dropped two anchors off the bow and ran a bunch of long lines to a few remaining pilings and trees. We now have a roof, gutters, pool cage and fence. Very slow progress.

Ken

Great to hear progress is being made.

 

[ranger58sb]

WASHER/DRYER REPLACEMENT

Our (probably) original washer/dryer was a vented Splendide WD2000S combo. The tub had several rusted areas within, so The Admiral said we couldn’t use it. Given everything on our boat must work, eventual replacement was in order…. and we finally got a round tuit over these last few weeks.


There’s a removable access panel in the bunk stateroom, immediately adjacent to the washer/dryer… so there’s at least some access to the back of the unit. Aligning the clips to replace the panel takes some juggling.


The underside of the W/D mounting board is attached to a mounting board, with screws into the W/D frame. The mounting board is then in turn screwed downward into the fiberglass underneath the W/D… .to prevent movement while underway (or even if a tsunami turns the boat upside down). The top side of the mounting board is painted (black) but otherwise unfinished plywood; the bottom side has a smooth white finish that slides semi-easily on the carpet when necessary.

- Remove the door in the companionway (4 screws)
- Remove the door frame in the companionway (4 screws and glue)
(I used a heat gun and putty knife along seams to separate the frame from the adjoining wood)
- Remove the wall panel in the bunk room (6 latch clips; start the pull from the bottom)
- Remove 6 hold-down screws and cup washers (3 in front, 3 behind unit)
(slightly rotate the unit/mounting board to slightly enlarge the side opening behind the unit… to reach the furthest-most screw)
(I used a shim to lift the forward edge of the mounting board over the lip of the carpet)
- Slide the hold-down mounting board slightly further outward from the cubbyhole (for even better rear access)
- Ensure the washer/dryer breaker on the AC distribution panel is OFF
- Unplug power (110VAC)
- Disconnect vent (hose clamp)
- Disconnect drain outlet hose from the boat’s overboard discharge hose (elbow fitting and hose clamps)
(the elbow seemed to be both glued and clamped to the overboard discharge hose; decided to re-use the elbow)
- Disconnect hot/cold water inlet hoses (MNPT-to-GHT elbows: MNPT to boat, GHT to W/D)
- Slide the unit completely out of the cubbyhole
- Mark the front edge of the mounting board
- Turn the unit upside down and remove the mounting board from the W/D (4 screws; note relative placement, for new unit)
- Offload the old unit
(our “upper” person (top of stairs) used a jerk strap around the unit to facilitate lifting and control)
- Shop for and acquire the new replacement unit; currently a WDV2200XCD (washer/dryer combo… extra capacity… same connection locations)
(the best price we found was on Amazon, including free delivery)
- Onload the new unit, then position it upside down near the cubbyhole
- Attach the mounting board to the unit frame (4 screws; front edge forward)
(re-use existing holes in mounting board; drill new holes in the W/D frame where required; re-use original screws)
- Turn the unit upright, then follow Splendide directions to remove the transit screws/rubber grommets/plastic spacers
- Slide the unit/mounting far enough into the cubbyhole to be able to reach/make water inlet connections
- Replace the rubber washers in the garden hose end of the elbows that connect to the W/D inlets
- Connect the cold water inlet (with new washer), and test for leaks at both W/D and freshwater manifold (forward stateroom)
- Connect the hot water inlet (with new washer), and test for leaks ditto
- Slide the unit slightly outward, to temporarily offer better rear access
- Connect the W/D drain hose to the elbow on the overboard discharge hose, and test for leaks
(use the optional winterizing method: liquid in the drum then 3-minute spin/drain cycle (see Manual))
- Connect the vent hose and power
- Run the “clean washer” cycle, test for liquid and air leaks, observe overboard water discharge
(through 58DB (58SB) starboard side common drain)
- Slide the unit fully into place and align holes in mounting board and fiberglass subsurface
(use a probe – straightened paper clip? – to align front holes in mounting board and fiberglass subsurface)
- Replace the 6 hold-down screws/cup washers, 3 in front, 3 in back
(I did the 3 front screws first, the 2 nearest rear screws next, bagged the most difficult rear screw)
(for all 3 rear screws, first rotate the W/D slightly for access to the furthest screw first; this negates the probe, above
- Replace the wall panel in the bunk room (6 latch clips, pain in the neck to align latches)
- Replace the door frame in the companionway (4 screws and glue)
- Replace the door in the companionway (4 screws)
- Drink at least one beer

I haven’t actually replaced the door frame and door yet; I got to the beer early and decided I need a longer break.

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Chris that made me need a beer just reading it!!!

a great post for everyone!

 

[ranger58sb]

GROUND TACKLE

Here follow-up to my previous posts #1014, 1015, and 1016:

ANCHOR POSSIBILITIES??

Follow-up to several associated "anchor" posts above... and now an update, with a few more factoids and hopefully better organization:

Part 1:

The problem: This boat was originally delivered with a galvanized 60-lb “plow” anchor (Delta clone) and 200’ of 5/16” G4 galvanized chain -- with related systems – windlass gypsy, chain stopper – to match. In my mind, this is a fair weather system, inadequate for our boat (~58’ and ~52K lbs) in high winds. All this made worse by some previous owner who replaced the original anchor with a stainless 44-lb Lewmar Delta, even less appropriate -- and which impinges the fiberglass hull above the stainless steel bow breastplate when fully docked. The stainless Delta is attached by a stainless shackle of unknown manufacture and strength – and it’s bent (so it’ll need to be cut off). Our normal anchoring grounds, the Chesapeake Bay and tributaries, are well known for patches of soft, slimy, oozy, soupy mud… a known problem for many anchor designs, including the Delta and other plow anchors. On inspection, the original chain is in bad shape, too.

The immediate improvement – anchor replacement with a galvanized 88-lb Rocna Vulcan anchor, and shackle replacement with a pair of alloy Crosby G209As, comes after significant research.

[Et cetera...]

Our original anchor and anchor davit were both fabricated by Southcoast Marine. The original anchor on ours was a 60-lb galvanized plow (and stainless was an available option). The original windlass was a 24VDC Lofrans Project 1500 with a 1200W motor, as evidenced by the triangular-shaped mounting flange (per Imtra). The original chain was 5/16” G4, brand unknown. The chain-stopper is probably a Windline product.

The original anchor and chain seemed inadequate, to me. And some bozo owner along the way had replaced the original anchor with an even lighter (and more useless) 44-lb stainless Lewmar Delta. Our chain was severely rusted. The bail over the davit was bent. The chain-stopper was bent. The windlass worked, electrically, but I wasn’t able to manually turn the gypsy, even when unloaded. It turned out, the motor was a ball of rust… and there are two screws with heads sheared off (one a motor mount underneath, one a cap screw above). I deduce one or more of the previous owners didn’t know how to use a chain-stopper, never used a snubber or a bridle, or maybe had some rigorous anchoring event sometime during their tenure… and at least once, bashed the davit against something unforgiving.

What to do…

I replaced the anchor, first. (See also earlier posts.) My first choice might have been an 80-lb pivoting SuperMAX 20 – since we’ve had experience with those, and very good results here on the Chesapeake Bay – but I wasn’t able to convert measurements into a working template to see whether it might fit or not. After reviewing anchor tests on YouTube by Steve Goodwin (S/V Panope), I settled on several basic criteria: new generation design, steel, one piece, best in his testing. That eventually led me to select the 88-lb Rocna Vulcan 40 and the 88-lb Sarca Excel #8 from his list. Cardboard mock-ups suggested the Vuclan would fit, barely, and the Excel would not. Vulcan it is. It did fit on the original davit, but the tip of the fluke was within about a half inch of the stainless strike plate on the stem… so it could work as is, but wasn’t yet optimal. In the meantime, we had a useable anchor as a potential safety device.

I replaced the windlass over this last winter; the new one is a Project 1500 (same mounting holes) with 1500W motor. This was after discussion with Imtra, where we priced out a replacement motor, and new gypsy, and a few other small part; that cost would have been more than half the cost of a brand new unit… and would have depended on whether I could even rehab the original upper unit and gearbox. Best price and availability for a new unit at the time was from CitiMarine. We were able to reuse all the existing electrical controls, so the new controller and footswitches went into storage as spares. I’m still hoping to salvage the original upper unit (cap, gypsy, etc.) and the gear drive underneath, and if that works I might be able eventually to make those available as potential replacements.

I replaced the rode over this last winter too, this time with 200’ of Peerless ACCO G43 backed up with 100’ of New England Rope ¾” 8-plait. We also marked various lengths with zip-ties as we were onloading the rode. It happens the larger chain links do still work in the existing chain-stopper with no other fix. (Even though the stopper wings are slightly bent. I might get around to fixing or replacing that in my spare time…) I got a decent pre-made bridle, too, with ¾” 3-strand rope and their chain grabber. This from Mantus Marine… at great cost…

And I had the davit removed over winter too, the bail repaired, and rollers replaced. The yard fabricated the new front roller from a 6” blank they sourced from McMaster-Carr. The original roller was about 5½” in diameter at the shoulders, but only about 3” in diameter in the center groove. The new forward roller is still 6” in diameter at the shoulders, but the groove is less deep, and cut specifically in two levels. The upper level is wide enough for 3/8” chain; the lower (deepest) level is cut to (sorta) match the chape of the Vulcan shank. That modification, intended to provide more fluke-tip/strike-plate clearance, seems to have worked a bit and we now have about 2” clearance there. Mantus offers some davit add-ons that might also improve on that a bit, too – potentially, in this case, by slightly altering the pitch of how the anchor rests on the davit. I’ll see how it goes, first, before I run down that $$$ path.

We haven’t gotten the anchor/rode wet yet – since I’ve been distracted with other repair projects – but we hope to do that soon. I don’t do anchor religion, so if the Vulcan works, it stays. If not, we’ll shop some more.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

Anyone have a source for a new rudder angle indicator that’s compatible with our steering system. The original part number is 1502871 and pictured below but can’t seem to source a direct replacement.

@Robert Serviss that looks like a rudder angle indicator, but where'd you get that part number?

Our 2006 Parts Manual doesn't have that number anywhere. There is a part number 1285063, "angle, rudder w/ sweep arm Teleflex" depicted on the Steering System pages 144 & 145.

And what did you do to fix your issue? Our rudder angle indicator may have gone south yesterday...

-Chris

 

[Robert Serviss]

@Robert Serviss that looks like a rudder angle indicator, but where'd you get that part number?

Our 2006 Parts Manual doesn't have that number anywhere. There is a part number 1285063, "angle, rudder w/ sweep arm Teleflex" depicted on the Steering System pages 144 & 145.

And what did you do to fix your issue? Our rudder angle indicator may have gone south yesterday...

-Chris

I ended up not repairing it yet but it’s on my list of things to do.

 

[ranger58sb]

I ended up not repairing it yet but it’s on my list of things to do.

I discovered later that the part number you gave was the Teleflex part number (i.e., not the Sea Ray part number)... and also that the unit has been discontinued. Prob'ly for a long-ish time.

The swing arm on top ours just broke recently; looks like a clean break so I'm hoping a repair will work. I think epoxy to reconnect, and then a tight sleeve of maybe mousing wire to reinforce the epoxy.

We'll see... I just brought the assembly up from the bilge today, reckon to try the repair at my leisure, re-install later if the repair seems viable.

There are other similar units available, should that become necessary.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

SUNPAD??

Anybody here have an original? Or know how the original was constructed?

I've got a local canvas company on the job, since I haven't been able to discover who the OEM supplier was...

But then of course there's a question about how the backrest things work. Near as we can guess, perhaps the raiseable backrest sections of the pad maybe had some kind of internal rigid backing? So the stainless bows could bear against that rigid backing when the backrest sections were raised to the reclining position?

Or...?

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Ours had the backrest removed before we bought her.

 

[Alex F]

SUNPAD??

Anybody here have an original? Or know how the original was constructed?

I've got a local canvas company on the job, since I haven't been able to discover who the OEM supplier was...

But then of course there's a question about how the backrest things work. Near as we can guess, perhaps the raiseable backrest sections of the pad maybe had some kind of internal rigid backing? So the stainless bows could bear against that rigid backing when the backrest sections were raised to the reclining position?

Or...?

-Chris

Try calling these guys: https://gioiasails.com/home/

They did some OEM canvas work for our vintage. If I recall they did mine and have the pattern. Not sure about sunpads, though.

 

[ranger58sb]

Try calling these guys: https://gioiasails.com/home/

They did some OEM canvas work for our vintage. If I recall they did mine and have the pattern. Not sure about sunpads, though.

Thanks, but I did that, long time ago. Dawn couldn't find patterns for ours.

And our cockpit canvas was from Boatswain's Locker, and they wouldn't claim the sunpad.

The local Sea Ray dealer hasn't been able to find anything useful, either.

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Chris do you still have the attachment holes where the backrest was screwd into the deck mine are filled in. You may just have to get a custom upholsterer to do the whole thing - including the back rest