Best Retrofit AC/HEAT 16,000 BTU UNIT

WOW - lots of info shared here

THANK YOU !


Installed a new DOMETIC/CRUISAIR in my 10 meter in 2006. Evaporator coil began leaking in less than 1 year. Installing dealer Blue Water Marine in Ft. Myers attempted to COVER IT UP as to avoid the labor a second time (difficult split unit) I caught him on it. In the end DOMETIC took care of it and the dealer begrudgingly handled the install but it took numerous certified mailings to accomplish.

Seems DOMETIC used to be the GO TO product, however what I've read on boating forums is that the quality advantage has now disappeared.

Here's my collection (to date) of NON- CSR comments , none of which are my own:

MABRU 17,000btu

SELF-CONTAINED 17000 BTU 230V 50/60HZ MARINE AIR CONDITIONER COPPER FI (mabrustore.com)


Quality can't be represented by shows, Dometic, bought every one including us, but quality came down big time.. A condensing coil is no longer CuNi 70/30 now is the economical CuNi 90/10.
Compressors are noisy, not efficient, and not very reliable.. How good are their 12v units? How far behind are they getting? Solar units?
Are they paying a fair amount to their dealers for warranties? I believe that now the paperwork is too complicated, the rate fees and times allowed for warranty are not Helping the Dealers.
Definitely Dometic is not the worse product, but also far from been the best.

--------------------------------


MARINAIRE $2,169 has both pressure gauges built in

16000 Btu, 230V, Self Contained Marine Air Conditioner System. Best marine air conditioner for cabin cruisers, sail boats, yachts and house boats (marinaire.com)

This is really the only choice here.

They are super quiet, newest tech, and able to be controlled from a smart phone w/ very little effort. With the app that it uses, when I'm on the way to the boat the AC kicks on by itself, when getting within a certain radius of the boat. It's awesome! I also sleep on the boat and with how quiet it is you barely hear anything but the wind noise from the vent. Heat works fine too.


The Wifi thing is cool because I can leave it in humidity mode when not at the boat but set it to cool off before I head to it.


My marineaire unit has been working flawlessly for 3 plus years it never has been shut off for any extended period of time. Not as quiet as advertised.

I owned a marine aire unit (classic naming scheme intended to confuse people into thinking it's the real thing). I was downright amazed at the poor quality. I was attracted by the low price point (really the only reason anyone would buy one). what complete garbage. I ended up throwing it all in the trash but before I did I tore everything down to look at how it was designed & built (I have been in product development my entire career). "wow" was all I could say as I looked at the crappy design under the hood and the clearly abysmal quality. really really bad. pure junk.

if you like yours, good for you, but it is still junk. and the control & remote pictured above is the same as I had. you're right, it isn't toy-like...most toys are much better made (no hyperbole).


Show us a better system with a better control..

Again, with this one I touch nothing.. I have it set to turn on when I'm about 10 mins from the boat.. and it turns off when I'm ten mins away from the boat and heading home.

Show us a better system with a better control system than that.

The other systems I've seen have metal pans that rust and fall apart, they vibrate like crazy and make tons of noise.. this one has a plastic pan that doesn't fall apart, and is nice and quiet, 3 speeds and a few different modes.. I have a hard time believing you tossed it out because it was too "cheap"


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FLAGSHIP MARINE

Self-Contained Water Cooled - Flagship Marine




They're crap. They don't use any isolation between the compressors and the pan, so when the things running it sounds like your running a sawzall through the entire boat. A household thermostat that doesn't display any fault codes, and one fan speed. Good parts, poor execution.


----------------------


KING AIR

Marine Air Conditioning units, Semi Truck HVAC, A/C Systems from KING-AIR, Cooling the World since 1947!



--------------------------------


WEBASTO


I was going to go with Webasto since their engineering depart in near my home town, but couldn't get over the made in China factor.


DOMETIC/CRUISAIR

$2,253 + shipping at Defender BACKORDERED


CruiseAire Dometic....I would just stick with that brand. 99.9 percent of the boats I survey have them. It's really a benefit to stick with the known when problems arise. On a side note, I have seen some Dometic units with a composite pan which I think is the way to go.

I have replaced 5 domestic air conditioners on my 2016 big horn 5th wheel under warranty, all due to freon leaking

When my Dometic 16K died after 2 years from new, I contacted Dometic and was essentially told "sorry, out of warranty" but they did tell me they would supply me with a list of vendors where I could order a new one.
clip_image001.png


I did find a great deal on a NOS one, and bought it as it was previous to the models that are failing. If and when it goes I will go to MarinAire.


yeah maybe I started out the thread with the wrong question. I should've known Dometic would be the "a/c of choice" because they pretty much dominate the market. Perhaps I should've asked, "what a/c do you think is the best?".
I tend to agree that sticking with Dometic in this instance might be the smartest, mainly due to service/parts availability.
But some of these other brands offer compelling packages at competitive pricing.
I do like that MarinAire unit with the standard sound cover, the gauges built in to the unit, the remote control/wifi, etc.
The dometic with the composite pan was the most expensive one I've seen, if I remember correctly.
I guess I'm trying to justify if paying another 1,000 dollars for that dometic is the right thing.


Comments about Dometic 16000 BTU EnviroComfort Air Conditioner Reverse-Cycle Retrofit Kit

I work as a marine electronics and a/c installer and have over 25 years experience. I have installed many Dometic a/c units and had, up until recently, found them to be reliable and well made. The 16k BTU Marine Airrrr (Dometic) unit used to be a reliable workhorse. Unfortunately, my recent experience ihas proven otherwise. Three of these 16k BTU units that I have installed, two on my own boat, have failed in a very short amount of time. The first one, installed on a customer's boat, failed in 16 months with a bad electronics controller. The second, installed on my boat, failed 53 weeks after purchase (Get that PLUS Plan!) when all the coolant was lost due to a leak. Most recently, another of these units, installed on my boat, failed after less than a month in service, again due to a coolant leak. I chose the Dometic unit because, unlike the Webasto unit, it has service ports that allow the refrigerant to be recharged. I bought my a/c's at West Marine because of the great coverage afforded by the PLUS Plan. I was able to return defective units and quickly obtain replacements with no hassle. Thanks West Marine!



Originally Posted by bms1939

Ocean Breeze is another brand to consider, good product and customer service.

Yeah, except the way their self contained units are mounted to the pan, they'll vibrate everything within 10' of them..........Dometic is still the best way to go for the package units, BUT, it's the best of the junk because I've seen a lot of defective ones on yachts I manage that are 2017-2020 boats.

Quality can't be represented by shows, Dometic, bought every one including us, but quality came down big time.. A condensing coil is no longer CuNi 70/30 now is the economical CuNi 90/10.
Compressors are noisy, not efficient, and not very reliable.. How good are their 12v units? How far behind are they getting? Solar units?
Are they paying a fair amount to their dealers for warranties? I believe that now the paperwork is too complicated, the rate fees and times allowed for warranty are not Helping the Dealers.
Definitely Dometic is not the worse product, but also far from been the best.



MERMAID

I’ll brag on the Mermaid unit for a bit.

stainless base with compressor mounted with bushings for quiet operation. Stainless drip tray under the evaporator - completely separate from the rest of the unit to keep water away from the compressor.

Full installation manual and factory support for any questions. Uses any household thermostat so replacement is easy. 5 year warranty!


Again, not my comments, but I thought it would be nice to share these with the CSR FORUM

BEST !

RWS

Thanks Sir - GREAT INFO - I've added it to my permanent file...
 
Well, it seems that the best choice 5 years ago would have been the DOMETIC TURBO DTG unit.

The opinions on the FORUMS is that the quality has crashed.

Additionally, they are nearly twice the cost of the majority of the others and are out of stock.

The WEBASTO is also out of stock

I am actually leaning toward the MARINEAIR
16000 Btu, 230V, Self Contained Marine Air Conditioner System. Best marine air conditioner for cabin cruisers, sail boats, yachts and house boats (marinaire.com)

I have only found one bad review so far and I really like the idea of an actual HUMIDISTAT, built in gauges and the remote ability to control the system.

For the nearly twice the difference in cost, can anyone convince me that the DOMETIC DTG TURBO (if it was available) will perform nearly twice better, be nearly twice quieter or last nearly twice longer?
 
THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL THE GOOD INFO.

Pulled the trigger on the Marineaire 16,000 btu 230 volt today

Since my current system has two units running one raw water pump,I am assuming the smallest of the AIRRRRRRRRR electrical boxes in the salon is the pump relay.

Could someone please confirm ?

BEST !

RWS
 
Are you sure its 220v
mine has a single 110v breaker on the panel
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Here's my panel and the tag on the factory HVAC:

Yanked the door to fully swing the hinged breaker panel out so I could test my GALVANIC ISOLATOR this weekend (tested good) and decided to do a "while you're in there you may as well....." project


Had some flat LED self adhesive strip light left over from the 10 Meter electrical panel.

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IMG_4018.JPG
 
Maybe the 230v comes standard when you order the SCARFACE GOLD option. ;)
 
Nice info here thanks. My old unit in the master is failing. It’s on the list to replace this off-season.
 
Hi all, great thread with a lot of good info. In my 93 440DA, my master 9K unit (Original Marine Air Systems) is in need of just the circuit board. Everything else tests good. Unit comes on, blower runs, calls for COOL...etc. But, compressor and pump not receiving signal to run. Both run when jumped.
Was blowing ice cubes up until last Sat (9/3). Want to retain the system as it's in good condition (I'm in fresh water). Anyone out there have one from their old MAS system that has been removed? I'm in the Detroit/Lake St. Clair area. Thanks
 
Hi all, great thread with a lot of good info. In my 93 440DA, my master 9K unit (Original Marine Air Systems) is in need of just the circuit board. Everything else tests good. Unit comes on, blower runs, calls for COOL...etc. But, compressor and pump not receiving signal to run. Both run when jumped.
Was blowing ice cubes up until last Sat (9/3). Want to retain the system as it's in good condition (I'm in fresh water). Anyone out there have one from their old MAS system that has been removed? I'm in the Detroit/Lake St. Clair area. Thanks
For what its worth, I just bypassed the controller board on a Dometic Brisk I roof air on my 5th wheel with a set of relays, and a modern Thermostat (Wyze) to take care of the safety timeouts, etc. If you understand the way your system works, and just want it to work until you decide what to do, start a conversation with me and I'll share the schematics/part numbers with you.
 
For what its worth, I just bypassed the controller board on a Dometic Brisk I roof air on my 5th wheel with a set of relays, and a modern Thermostat (Wyze) to take care of the safety timeouts, etc. If you understand the way your system works, and just want it to work until you decide what to do, start a conversation with me and I'll share the schematics/part numbers with you.
Thanks. That's exactly what my HVAC buddy was recommending. He installed a Tecumseh compressor in my 16k unit a few years back and is quite capable of this. So yes, if you can please share the schematics & part numbers, I'm sure we can assemble that. FYI, Dometic makes a Retro Fit Kit for around $850! Also, it's not available for months. I don't think it's the best route anyway, vs the new Marinaire 10k unit. Thanks
 
Thanks. That's exactly what my HVAC buddy was recommending. He installed a Tecumseh compressor in my 16k unit a few years back and is quite capable of this. So yes, if you can please share the schematics & part numbers, I'm sure we can assemble that. FYI, Dometic makes a Retro Fit Kit for around $850! Also, it's not available for months. I don't think it's the best route anyway, vs the new Marinaire 10k unit. Thanks

Not sure why, but I could see you started a conversation, but I have no way to reply to it, like here. First time for that. Maybe you have to get a little more established on the forum.
Anyways, let's just do it here. Not magic.
If you go get you a battery operated wall thermostat, that will simplify the solution a little, as non-battery units will be looking for 24vac to power the thermostat smarts, but you will still need it for the switching voltage. In my case, I wanted Internet Wifi access to the control from a remote location, so I opted for the Wyze smart thermostat (Home Depot, 70ish bucks). To power the thermostat, I bought a 120v to 24v step down wall wart.
My test stand is a red work cart from Harbor Freight. Remember this is a roof top unit from Dometic for RVs, but the concept will be similar. In my case, I have a 3 speed fan, and a compressor to operate. You may only have a fan, and compressor.
To do the switching, I bought a couple of dual relay modules, which use a 24v input to control the relay, and a 115v load to operate the compressor and fan. You might get away with one of these.
The Amazon link is: https://a.co/d/5lNJ3em
The hardest part is figuring out what the thermostat will switch when it wants cooling, and/or fan.
RVs are very different, and somewhat the same as home units. Too much to go into here, but suffice to say, the thermostat is going to control a low voltage, which in turn switches the high voltage to the compressor and fan. In a house, that's typically 230v. In a boat, it is typically 120v. You will need to know what your A/C is running on.
On the thermostat, there are terminals which will hook up to the control side of the relay. Let's keep it simple, and say there is a 2 leg thing. Compressor, and fan. Somewhere in the control box, there will be wires that go out to the fan (blower) motor, and to the compressor. They should be near relays, whether discrete, or PC board mounted. Those will be used later for the output side.
The thermostat terminals will hook from the RC terminal to hot for the compressor (usually black), and from the G terminal to the Fan hot. The neutral side of the control wires will come off the neutral side of the 24vac wall wart, and to C on the thermostat (Common). On the high voltage side, the A/C 120v hot (black) will hook up to the power side of the relays on the output, and the compressor will go to the load side of one relay, and the fan will go to the other relay hot.
The thermostat determines when these relays activate. I can't access my schematic right now, but will post it in a follow up. I'm sure the description above is a bit of spaghetti.
IMG_4937.JPEG

IMG_4926.JPEG

IMG_4935.JPEG
 
First, sorry about the conversation. I should have select for everyone to be able to view it. That was the issue.
I run 120v. So, I see exactly what you're doing here. I need to run the fan continuously-one speed when I switch the Forward Air on. No need for variable speeds. Then, the compressor needs to cycle on/off based on temp. Pump needs to come on when comp does, if the other unit isn't running the compressor/pump already. Yes, my 120v input is a black wire. I have identified all the output wires to comp and water pump already. So, I'm part way there with your description. I'm sure my HVAC buddy has this exact setup in mind. He is mainly home HVAC. But, he's well aware of the needs of the boat (water pump circulation). Yes, please post that schematics if you can. Or, let me know if you want my email address if that's easier. Thanks!
 
Here you go. The Wyze unfortunately has to have at least 20v to turn on, as it is expecting 24vac. I did find some dc-dc upconverters to run 12vdc up to 20vdc, since you have 12v onboard already. The wall wart was quick and easy.

relay.jpg
Schematic of Wyze to relays.png

12 to 24 volt step up.PNG
 

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