Diagnosing Windlass Issue

[Sicktght311]

99 Sundancer 270da. Need some input here on people who have worked on their windlass. I have a Lofrans Marlin windlass that was giving me trouble last season, but seems to have quit all together this season

Last season, the up function was intermittent. Sometimes it would respond no problem. Sometimes respond then stop, and then hitting either bow or helm switch would just click but nothing would happen, and you'd have to hit it over and over until it worked again. Cleaned contacts at all connections. Figured it was likely a dying Control box.

Took the boat out over the weekend, same thing happened again with it stopping while trying to retrieve the anchor, but now it wont make a clicking sound anymore, and now the down function isnt working either, just clicking.

I broke out my multimeter and here's what i found
-Good 12v power to the main high amperage (10 gauge wiring i think?) input of the Control box in the anchor locker
-When hitting the up switch at helm or foot, no click at the control box, no 12v at either terminal at the Windlass Motor. I put my negative lead on the black cable terminal at the motor, and tested each red positive terminal on the motor (M1 and M2)
-When hitting the down switch, i get a click at the control box, and i see 12v at both terminals, but no movement
-I pulled the 12v power lead off the control box, removed M1 and M2 12v lines from the motor, and tried connecting 12v to either of the 2 terminals, and all i got was a spark, but no movement from the motor

However now i'm reading that you cant just apply power to one terminal to get movement on the motor? you need power applied to both? I just ordered a new control box (SPA-10697) and i'll be replacing that, but i'm still curious if the motor is good or not, and i'd like to figure out how to bench test that while its still in the boat.

EDIT - 60amp breaker is fine, latching solenoid by the breaker panel is good and is sending 12v, switches at the helm at bow all make good contact. The issue is at the anchor locker

 

[Sicktght311]

As i'm researching this, stupid me missed one of the most obvious ways to test this. Pull the source 12v large cable off the control box, and instead of touching the M1/M2 motor terminals, touch either one of the terminals at the control box, which would in effect bypass the control box. If i get no movement at the windlass, then the motor is shot. If i get movement, its the control box. Correct?

 

[hughespat57]

NEVER connect both M leads at the same time!
You have a three terminal motor from the sounds of it. That is a series wound motor with two windings, one CW one CCW. Series wound have much more torque then permanent magnet motors, they are like two starter motors in one.
PM motors will have a relay that both battery positive and negative go to the relay and only two cables to the motor.

Your relay should be like this

Best to put all the wires back on the relay. Then simply jump battery and F1 OR battery and F2 with an old screwdriver. You should get a good sized spark and the motor should run. If not tap the side of the motor lightly with a hammer and try again. If that helps at all most likely the motor brushes are worn out, which is a common issue.
The relay should click with either up or down and there should be 12v on one terminal and your other lead should be on the motor ground terminal.

As said these are like a starter and many local starter shops can rebuild it if needed.

 

[Sicktght311]

Ended up 100% being the control box. Replaced with SPA20697 which is the updated replacement and it fired right back up. Just need to tidy up wiring and I’ll consider this one solved