Getting fresh water system back up and running

Cheap Guy

Cheap Guy

Active Member
Aug 29, 2010
111
Michigan
Boat Info
1989 250DA Sundancer
Engines
5.7 Alpha 1
I decided to get my fresh water back up and running after not using it for…maybe a decade, lol. I took the rusted out water heater out and tee’d the engine hoses but just left the actual water hoses unplugged and zip tied out of the way. I have no intent on replacing the water heater tank any time soon because I just don’t anticipate using it but I do want tap water just for convenience sake like when cleaning but not for drinking. I put about a gallon in the water tank and I can hear the pump running when I turn on the dash switch but no water is coming out. Do I need to cap off the water tank lines? Does the pump need to prime, especially after all these years? Anything else I need to do to get it back running?
 
Need some clarification... what exactly did you "T"? A "T" connection means a 3-way connection.

Are you also saying that you left the cold water feed to the HWT and hot water supply from the HWT just laying "open"?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Need some clarification... what exactly did you "T"? A "T" connection means a 3-way connection.

Are you also saying that you left the cold water feed to the HWT and hot water supply from the HWT just laying "open"?
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Sorry for the confusion. Basically I looped the input and output of the engine hoses together with a connector and clamps so the water circulates as needed.

Yes, when I took the tank out I just disconnected the input and output to the tank. At that time I had no intention of using the fresh water system but now I do. After looking at it again, I assume I’ll need to at least cap off or again connect the them together to complete the loop but I figured I’d check to see if the system (pump) was even working before doing that.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Need some clarification... what exactly did you "T"? A "T" connection means a 3-way connection.

Are you also saying that you left the cold water feed to the HWT and hot water supply from the HWT just laying "open"?
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion. Basically I looped the input and output of the engine hoses together with a connector and clamps so the water circulates as needed.

Yes, when I took the tank out I just disconnected the input and output to the tank. At that time I had no intention of using the fresh water system but now I do. After looking at it again, I assume I’ll need to at least cap off or again connect the them together to complete the loop but I figured I’d check to see if the system (pump) was even working before doing that.
 
OK, that makes more sense. You didn't "T" them - you just connected them (maybe using a barb fitting?).

A gallon may not be enough for the tank to start drawing water.

Yes, if you leave the cold water supply hose to the HWT open then of course water is just going to pour out of it.

If you barb the cold and hot HWT together then you would be supplying water to the hot side of the faucets, too. Which is fine - but it sounds like you don't need that? In this case, just cap the cold line.

Check the filter on the pump.

This is all pretty easy to trace/figure out - just take a look at things.

FYI... replace the pipe to barb fittings where the heating hoses connect at the engine with a garboard drain plug.
 
Yes, I used a barbed automotive fitting. I also capped the electrical connections btw. I was going to do like you suggested and close it off closer to the engine but I figured I might actually want to replace the heater at some point. And yes, it won’t bother me if cold (unheated) water come out with both knobs, at least for now.
This was one of those “it’s bugging me” projects because looking at the rusting heater in the bilge was bothering me. Also, I was using a portable water container to use for cleaning or washing hands and figured I might as well use the onboard system since it’s there. Taking the heater out also saves a bit of weight but like I said, if I get a few bucks I may just replace it. I also finally fixed the speedometer and trim solenoid which also haven’t worked for awhile.

IMG_4151.jpeg IMG_4150.jpeg
 
Cheap Guy said:
Yes, I used a barbed automotive fitting. I also capped the electrical connections btw. I was going to do like you suggested and close it off closer to the engine but I figured I might actually want to replace the heater at some point. And yes, it won’t bother me if cold (unheated) water come out with both knobs, at least for now.
This was one of those “it’s bugging me” projects because looking at the rusting heater in the bilge was bothering me. Also, I was using a portable water container to use for cleaning or washing hands and figured I might as well use the onboard system since it’s there. Taking the heater out also saves a bit of weight but like I said, if I get a few bucks I may just replace it. I also finally fixed the speedometer and trim solenoid which also haven’t worked for awhile.

View attachment 144662 View attachment 144663
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Have you noticed a new list since removing the heater? You might find your boat is a bit less balanced when sitting still without the weight of the water heater (presumably full of water). That would bug me :)
 
Stee6043 said:
Have you noticed a new list since removing the heater? You might find your boat is a bit less balanced when sitting still without the weight of the water heater (presumably full of water). That would bug me :)
Click to expand...

No, haven’t noticed, but again I haven’t filled the tank in years and when empty it really doesn’t weigh much. One thing me and other boaters, especially on boats my size, are doing is lightening our boats to get better mileage. For example, not filling water and waste tanks, not running with a full gas tank, taking unnecessary stuff off like deck chairs, BBQ grills and other stuff, and for some of us, only inviting smaller women for rides, lol. You’d be surprised at how much a difference it makes.
 
Cheap Guy said:
No, haven’t noticed, but again I haven’t filled the tank in years and when empty it really doesn’t weigh much. One thing me and other boaters, especially on boats my size, are doing is lightening our boats to get better mileage. For example, not filling water and waste tanks, not running with a full gas tank, taking unnecessary stuff off like deck chairs, BBQ grills and other stuff, and for some of us, only inviting smaller women for rides, lol. You’d be surprised at how much a difference it makes.
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Damn! True to your Member/User name I see.

Edit: With all of your post at that.
 
Ever start a project and then regret it? So I capped off the water heater hoses (both input and output, just to be sure) and started troubleshooting to see if the pump was working correctly and also checking the lines and sure enough I find the problem - a split/break in the line in the rear cabin storage compartment, so that’s where the water was going that I was putting in the tank and running the pump. My concern now is do I replace all of the lines from the freshwater tank and pump to the faucets or do I just walk away and leave it alone for another decade? I’m going to do a temporary splice just to make absolutely sure everything else is working but I know the proper way is to replace the line because if it broke in one spot, there are probably other weak spots, unless Patrick Star cut the line in the storage compartment, lol.

IMG_2023-5-23-222916.jpeg
IMG_4158.jpeg
IMG_4159.jpeg
 
I say do it right or don't do it at all. The previous leak is worrisome. If it was allowed to go on for an appreciable amount of time, I'd be looking for soft spots in the area of the leak, or compromised stringers. (ask me how I know). A rotted stringer, will make your minor plumbing job seem like a walk in the park. No way would I continue pressurizing the system without replacing that run of line.

If you do move forward, once you fix any leaks, you'll need to start with at least a half tank of water, and then bleed the air from the system. Otherwise, your pump can continue to run, even with no leaks.
 
bobeast said:
I say do it right or don't do it at all. The previous leak is worrisome. If it was allowed to go on for an appreciable amount of time, I'd be looking for soft spots in the area of the leak, or compromised stringers. (ask me how I know). A rotted stringer, will make your minor plumbing job seem like a walk in the park. No way would I continue pressurizing the system without replacing that run of line.

If you do move forward, once you fix any leaks, you'll need to start with at least a half tank of water, and then bleed the air from the system. Otherwise, your pump can continue to run, even with no leaks.
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i agree. Fortunately there was no water pumping through the system all that time, evident by the antifreeze still in the tank and as you can see, I immediately vacuumed it out. I checked Pex line at HD and it’s not too expensive, especially for a boat my size. I’ll probably replace the heater too once I run new lines, but later this summer.
It’s times like this I’m glad my father taught me how to fix and work on things.
 
Stee6043 said:
I use the heck out of Sharkites for these types of projects (Lowes/HD). Pricey for what they are but saves so much time.
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They had 1/2 in both red and blue at HD so I’m good. Bought both colors to make it color appropriate for the water temp.

I guess cuz I'm old school, I'm kind of leery of the sharkbite stuff instead of clamps, but I'll check them out. Thanks.
 
Cheap Guy said:
They had 1/2 in both red and blue at HD so I’m good. Bought both colors to make it color appropriate for the water temp.

I guess cuz I'm old school, I'm kind of leery of the sharkbite stuff instead of clamps, but I'll check them out. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sea Ray started using plastic versions of the Sharkbites in production in the 90's. The brass Sharkbites are an upgrade, in my opinion.
 
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