Pirate Lady
Well-Known Member
By your knees, below the wheel.Oh I see. Where is the trailer button located?
I guess my grandfather removed that limiter because we need to raise and lower it every single time we drive the boat.
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By your knees, below the wheel.Oh I see. Where is the trailer button located?
I guess my grandfather removed that limiter because we need to raise and lower it every single time we drive the boat.
Yours probably has the "push harder" to trailer?This 2005 Baja I have has the same setup. 1 switch only.
Does the motor stop pumping? Straining and not going further up?
Every model different. I don’t have a dash pic showing mine. It’s a paddle switch.By your knees, below the wheel.
Correct, I stop hearing the straining when it hits the limit.This 2005 Baja I have has the same setup. 1 switch only.
Does the motor stop pumping? Straining and not going further up?
Those are your trim tabs. Nothing to do with outdrive.View attachment 135794
this red circle is the only button I know that can trim the motor.
There are two rocker switches on the top next to the compass that say 'Bow Down and Bow Up', or something along those lines... They don't seem to do anything...
I think that style has a button on the bottom corner, right?View attachment 135794
this red circle is the only button I know that can trim the motor.
There are two rocker switches on the top next to the compass that say 'Bow Down and Bow Up', or something along those lines... They don't seem to do anything...
Hm, I will need to look closely. I don't recall that.I think that style has a button on the bottom corner, right?
Trim tabs, if they're working, are VERY useful.
Wow! That's a lot of information I don't have the time or the patience to do all that myself so I am happy the price i paid was reasonable.The trim circuit is pretty simple... the switch on your handle tells the trim pump motor to either RUN UP, or RUN DOWN. Off the top of my head, I don't recall what the wire colors are for those two functions, but you'll find three wires to that switch, and they go through the handle, through the box, and alongside the shift cables to the trim pump located on the internal transom, alongside the engine, usually on the starboard side.
The trim limit switch (located on side of gimbal pivots, opposite where the TRIM SENDER is mounted) has a segment that, when the drive is anywhere from fully down, to partially up (the safe running limit), makes for a closed circuit, which is in series with the RUN UP circuit... so that you can always run the motor DOWN, but you can only run the motor UP until you reach the point where that trim limit switch's contacts open. Once that happens, you cannot go further.
The TRAILER switch is located somewhere at the helm area, and it has two wires coming out of it, one goes to the shifter box, it's connect to the RUN UP circuit, and the other goes to the area of the trim pump, and connects to the TRIM LIMIT switch wire, in such a way that when you operate the TRAILER switch, the contacts bypass the TRIM LIMIT, and that allows you to run the drive up the rest of the way.
I would agree with others in that your TL was probably NOT working before (either intentionally, or because the switch was damaged and stuck, or because someone disabled it). I would also agree that it appears to be working now, with the caveat that someone may not have reassembled and set up the switch properly, so it's not providing the full trim range as it should.
And i'm late-to-the-thread here, but one thing I would have recommended, whilst all that other work was being done... would be to have them lift the engine out, pop off the flywheel cover, replace the drive coupler., check the transom for water ingress (as noted by Barry) check/tighten down the tiller arm, replace the inside water tube, and replace the exhaust flappers. Being at LEAST 10 years old, they've done more than they were intended, and don't owe you anything more. A failure of the drive coupler is a very messy thing (acrid black goo everywhere).
As you noted, it was an expensive operation, but an important thing to note- The simple act of taking it apart for this operation is the 'expensive' aspect. Once apart, there's componentry that is right there, and easy to replace, and while it might be a little pricey, it is much cheaper than repeating the whole process again, after there's been a failure.
Just so happens that I did a bellows job on my dad's 25ft Wellcraft several weeks ago... the gimbal bellows had a fishhook tear in it from some bass-tournamenter who apparently wasn't in control of his cast, and I know for certain, because the spinner-lure was still securely embedded in the bellows, along with the tear he inflicted while trying to free it. Unfortunately it went unnoticed until I noticed the bilge pump cycle. Upon dismantling, the gimbal bearing and both U-joints were submerged, as was shift cable.
The parts and labor included:
U-joint bellows and clamps
Shift cable bellows and clamps
Gimbal water tube and clamps
Both trim sender and trim limit switch
shifter arm, shift shaft bushing and seal
Shift cable and cable end
Gimbal bearing
Drive mounting gasket kit
On the drive:
Drive U-joints
Drive water pump impeller and cover
Drive lube
Remove prop, inspect, grease splines, reinstall
I also:
Refilled trim pump and trim tab reservoir
Replaced fuel/water element
Adjusted the shift cable AND ignition interrupt switch
My total parts and materials came to just under $450, MOST of the parts I used came from Sierra.
It took me about 2 hours to remove the drive, disassemble the gimbal, etc.
It took me about 3 hours to clean up all the parts. Since it needed it, I abrasive blasted the gimbal housing ('helmet') and then primed and painted it Phantom Black (MerCruiser is proud of their paint)...
It took me about an hour-and-a-half to get the gimbal reassembled.
Draining, replacing the water pump housing, impeller, and O-rings, reassembly, and replacement of the U-joints took me about 4.5hours, which I did inside my garage, while watching video of my son march at the Iowa/Ohio State game...
Putting the drive back on took about 20 minutes... ancillary filling was done while I was adjusting the cable and interrupt switch, I had it on the dock for an hour or so...
And I was in no big rush for ANY of this... so probably 15 hours of MY time. If I were paying a professional, they'd do it much faster BUT... they would not be doing any of the OTHER maintenance and inspection things that I was doing.
My marina through out a rough quote of $2100 to just do the bellows, so I don't think what you paid was out-of-reach. It DOES sound like they were offering you a good service plan to attend to other things, but knowing the history, if you pulled it into my driveway, as a friend, I would have suggested we put it on service rack, and once the drive was off, disconnect the engine, lift it up, swing it over, and do the other interior things I suggested... coupler, transom wood inspection, etc., so that it'd be ready for another 8-10 years without problems.
They left it like the picture shows. I don’t know if I have power steering tbh…Did they replace the fin anode with a flat anode? That would make more sense. You don't need the fin if you have power steering.
I'd be surprised if you didn't have power steering. But you'd know it when you're operating the boat. Or, just look for a power steering pump.They left it like the picture shows. I don’t know if I have power steering tbh…
Did they replace the fin anode with a flat anode? That would make more sense. You don't need the fin if you have power steering.
Yup, you are right. That's the button that I will need to use from now on to raise it!@muskokamarc If I am not forgetting, I believe the trailer button that raises the drive past the normal limit, is circled in blue below. Its a rubber push area with a switch underneath, not a button really. It runs the up trim, but bypasses the trim limit:
View attachment 136527
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