Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Bob, The portlight on the right is the one I'm referring to.

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The following is the solution I decided to go with to correct a leaking aft port light on the port side of my 2001 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer. Sea Ray installed this opening port light in an inaccessible area of the cabin behind the fiberglass head module during their manufacturing process. It's not visible from anywhere inside the boat and the inside surface of the acrylic lens was spray painted black to conceal the head's HVAC hose that runs up along the right side of the port light. After using a borescope through the head ceiling light I concluded there was no means of backing out the mounting screws on this port light in order to remove it, reseal the frame and replace the lens gasket.
 

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The following is the solution I decided to go with to correct a leaking aft port light on the port side of my 2001 Sea Ray 310 Sundancer. Sea Ray installed this opening port light in an inaccessible area of the cabin behind the fiberglass head module during their manufacturing process. It's not visible from anywhere inside the boat and the inside surface of the acrylic lens was spray painted black to conceal the head's HVAC hose that runs up along the right side of the port light. After using a borescope through the head ceiling light I concluded there was no means of backing out the mounting screws on this port light in order to remove it, reseal the frame and replace the lens gasket.
I worked with my fiberglass guy to come up with a faux portlight installation that would preserve the exterior symmetry and aesthetics of the boat. We decided to fiberglass behind the port light to prevent any future leaks. The outer frame of the portlight along with lens, hinge and dogs will remain intact and we will eliminate the inner frame and mounting screws by bonding the outer frame of the port light to the side of the boat's fiberglass deck using 3M 5200 polyurethane adhesive. We will leave a 1" gap at the bottom to allow for drainage should any water find its way behind the frame. First step was to carefully cut out the leaking port light and make sure we didn't go beyond the depth of the deck's fiberglass thickness. This point is critical because the HVAC hose for the head is located directly behind this port light and it's located in an area behind the head module that's inaccessible to replace it.
 

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In the photo you can see there's less than 2" of clearance between the side of the fiberglass deck and the back side of the prefabricated fiberglass head module - not really enough to get even a right angle screw driver in there. The next step was to fabricate the elliptical fiberglass "bowl" that would seal the hole and provide a recess for installation of the faux port light. The bump out on the lower right was added to provide clearance for the head HVAC hose.
 

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A grinder was was used to create a scarf joint around the perimeter and the fiberglass bowl, it was dry fitted to ensure sufficient clearances and alignment with the centerline of the adjacent port light and it was finally glassed in place. In my next post I will share photos of the final gelcoat work and the installation of the faux port light.
 

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It's also worth noting that vinylester resin was used for this project to ensure a good secondary bond with the boat's vinylester fiberglass deck and reduce the possibility of delamination and future leaks (done once, done right!).
 
Bob, I apologize - I'm not directing this post at you.

I simply wanted share what I learned in case other 310 owners are looking for a solution to this inaccessible leaking port light. I initially found it hard to believe there was no content on CSR about this problem. This was clearly a Sea Ray work around when the cabin layout with the jack and jill head and dinette in front of the forward berth wasn't received well by the market and they redesigned the cabin layout part way though the 1998 model year.
 
Bob, I apologize - I'm not directing this post at you.

I simply wanted share what I learned in case other 310 owners are looking for a solution to this inaccessible leaking port light. I initially found it hard to believe there was no content on CSR about this problem. This was clearly a Sea Ray work around when the cabin layout with the jack and jill head and dinette in front of the forward berth wasn't received well by the market and they redesigned the cabin layout part way though the 1998 model year.

No apology needed. I've been watching your progress with interest, as I am sure others are.
 
The first 6 applications of gel coat went on today. Already looking much better.
My fiberglass guy, Diego, is doing an amazing job! He did some other fiberglass repair work on her and it was exceptional.
310 gel coat application in progress.jpg
 
No apology needed. I've been watching your progress with interest, as I am sure others are.
Thanks Bob! Detailing is complete except for the repair area so that hull and deck shine you're seeing is the Permanon Yacht Supershine ceramic coating. This is the first time my detailer used this product but so far he's impressed. Time will tell how well this coating holds up in the hot FL sun. It was one of the first ceramic coatings to come on the market and it's water base base so there's no chemical bond to the gelcoat. You also don't need a hazmat suit to touch it up or reapply!
 
Thanks Bob! Detailing is complete except for the repair area so that hull and deck shine you're seeing is the Permanon Yacht Supershine ceramic coating. This is the first time my detailer used this product but so far he's impressed. Time will tell how well this coating holds up in the hot FL sun. It was one of the first ceramic coatings to come on the market and it's water base base so there's no chemical bond to the gelcoat. You also don't need a hazmat suit to touch it up or reapply!

I SO need to get mine detailed. You're makin' Dance the Tide look bad.
 
My guy charged $65/ft. which I though was very reasonable for full detail including buffing, compounding, ceramic coating application, cockpit and all seating surfaces. I really needed the help to get her caught up.

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The challenge in my area is to get someone to show up.
Thankfully this guy operates out of our marina as an independent contractor. He's there every week and does most of his business there (over 200 boats). He manages to keep his team busy.
 
These are the next to last photos of the faux port light project. Stainless steel front frame and lens assembly were bonded to the side of the deck using a generous amount of 3M 5200 adhesive (2 beads) and blocked in place with a piece of 2x4 lumber against the rail. Minimum cure time for handling is 48 hours. The inside frame and mounting screws were not used since the inside frame would have interfered with the fiberglass recess that was fabricated for this project
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And here's a close up.
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Photos of finished project will be posted next week.
 
Bob, that looks awesome. Still boggles my mind the way Sea Ray built this. Looking forward to see you on the water.
 
Okay, Maybe I'm going about this all wrong... Am I in the right place? New Post? I don't want to hijack anybody's post. I think I'm in the correct place.
2000 31 Sundancer cockpit sink sprayer. It doesn't work much these days. I'm sure I could replace with a single handled faucet. Has anyone done this? How do I gain access to underneath to secure the faucet to the sink deck?
 
Okay, Maybe I'm going about this all wrong... Am I in the right place? New Post? I don't want to hijack anybody's post. I think I'm in the correct place.
2000 31 Sundancer cockpit sink sprayer. It doesn't work much these days. I'm sure I could replace with a single handled faucet. Has anyone done this? How do I gain access to underneath to secure the faucet to the sink deck?
Go to flounder pounder, Searayparts.com they have replacement spray handles for replacement. If that’s the problem if it’s just clogged.
 
Go to flounder pounder, Searayparts.com they have replacement spray handles for replacement. If that’s the problem if it’s just clogged.
Actually, the handle broke off. Would like the idea of a faucet instead of a sprayer. Just don't know how to access the plumbing
 

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