Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Yep - did that - even added a bit of soap to make it easier to soot outside but nada. Looking to see if it is on the port or starboard or in the engine room bilge. The manual is no help. A mystery so far unless someone knows for sure…thx

comes out on the port side... In the middle of the boat.. Up near the A/C discharge..
 
Perfect - thanks Siboatguy - if I don’t see any flow tomorrow I will hook up my shop vac to clear the line.
 
We have a 2005 340. I suspect the cockpit carpet's original. The top is in good shape, but the backing is disintegrating and leaving a black powder residue. Someone suggested spraying it with "Flexseal". What do you guys think?
 
We have a 2005 340. I suspect the cockpit carpet's original. The top is in good shape, but the backing is disintegrating and leaving a black powder residue. Someone suggested spraying it with "Flexseal". What do you guys think?

It will buy you sometime but eventually the encapsulated backing will still break down.

-Kevin
 
Keep an eye out on this forum and ebay. I bought a basically brand new full set, to include swim platform CSR. Had my Maxum carpet replaced by Corinthian, who did a very nice job. Band-aid it with the flexseal and keep an eye out. I didn't plan on buying my extra set, it just appeared one evening at a great price so I grabbed it. My original is getting pretty shabby, may be its last season.
 
Trust me...don't do it
I thought it was a great idea too. It started breaking down in a couple of months and made a hell of a mess and some of my antislip diamond pattern in the fiberglass is still marked with that black crap
korkie...i remember that ad. You got a great deal. You beat me to it as I was wrapped up in my engine problems (and still am)
 
has anyone replaced their engine hatch lifts? mine are very rusty and today while doing some spring cleaning in the bilge i had large flakes of rust coming off of the electric lift motors. then when I went to close the hatches they wouldn't turn off when I let go of the button. I had to run to the battery switches to deactivate them. then I tried several more times and the hatch motors continued to run when I let go of the button. I was thinking this is the rusty hatch motors but maybe it's the switches? Has this happened to anyone before?

yes, I had this happen to me and it pulled one of the mounts away from the hatch lid.
My problem was the switch pad going bad so I Suspect, yours is the switch pad and not the hatch motors.
 
Not sure if this is the right place but I have an 2003.5 sundancer 340 (SDA) and my trim tab switches stopped working. Everything I read basically says you can either replace the whole switch pad (if you can find it) or get the ‘upgrade’ retro fit kit on flounder pounder. It also seems it’s possible it could be my EIM not even my switch…although I doubt it in my case.

The retro fit kit is up over $4k now and that’s without labor. Not sure if I have the patience or ability to tackle that project myself. It seems daunting.

Does anyone happen to have a port side switch pad? In desperate need.

Does anyone have any alternative suggestions, thoughts, ideas?
 
Not sure if this is the right place but I have an 2003.5 sundancer 340 (SDA) and my trim tab switches stopped working. Everything I read basically says you can either replace the whole switch pad (if you can find it) or get the ‘upgrade’ retro fit kit on flounder pounder. It also seems it’s possible it could be my EIM not even my switch…although I doubt it in my case.

The retro fit kit is up over $4k now and that’s without labor. Not sure if I have the patience or ability to tackle that project myself. It seems daunting.

Does anyone happen to have a port side switch pad? In desperate need.

Does anyone have any alternative suggestions, thoughts, ideas?

Maybe contact this guy:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/eim-keypad-prototype-available.109025/
 
Keep an eye out on this forum and ebay. I bought a basically brand new full set, to include swim platform CSR. Had my Maxum carpet replaced by Corinthian, who did a very nice job. Band-aid it with the flexseal and keep an eye out. I didn't plan on buying my extra set, it just appeared one evening at a great price so I grabbed it. My original is getting pretty shabby, may be its last season.


I think you bought those carpets off me. Glad they will come into good use! I am in desperate need of a port side switch pad. My trim tan switches aren’t working so I need to replace the whole pad (assuming it’s not the EIM). Do you know of anyone that may have one available?
 
Perfect - thanks Siboatguy - if I don’t see any flow tomorrow I will hook up my shop vac to clear the line.
I understand that some models were optioned out so that all drains would drain into the gray water/waste tank as to meet local laws, check to see if your waste tank is filling up after you use them, See section 7.9 of the owners manual.

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We have a 2005 340. I suspect the cockpit carpet's original. The top is in good shape, but the backing is disintegrating and leaving a black powder residue. Someone suggested spraying it with "Flexseal". What do you guys think?
I used clear flex seal in spray can, has held up and no further markings
 
B1453368-DE20-426E-A1DA-4A1EB1187593.jpeg
D0C595FC-0F7C-4046-9A28-B2BF04995029.jpeg
B1453368-DE20-426E-A1DA-4A1EB1187593.jpeg
We have a 2005 340DA.

does anyone have a Jabsco check valve installed on their A/C water line intake between the seacock and strainer?

I was having water flow and cooling issues so when I found this, took it apart and it was clogged with barnacles.

thinking about removing the check valve unless someone can tell me a reason to keep it?
Thanks
308F5EE2-3D62-441C-AE37-701BF93D7367.jpeg
 
View attachment 128884 View attachment 128886 View attachment 128884 We have a 2005 340DA.

does anyone have a Jabsco check valve installed on their A/C water line intake between the seacock and strainer?

I was having water flow and cooling issues so when I found this, took it apart and it was clogged with barnacles.

thinking about removing the check valve unless someone can tell me a reason to keep it?
ThanksView attachment 128885

07 340 here
No check valve on mine
 
I figure that the previous owner may have installed it so it could be kept on a lift.

just another place for marine growth to hide out.
 
I figure that the previous owner may have installed it so it could be kept on a lift.

just another place for marine growth to hide out.
I just replaced my hose there in my 2006 and it did not have a check valve.
 
No hot water.

I was at a marina last night and the shore power breaker tripped twice. When I went out the second time I smelled burning plastic, electrical. I opened everything, bilge, etc. and no smoke. I left the breaker off overnight and monitored everything and all seemed okay.

Next morning I plugged the boat back in and tried each 110 fuse individually to see which one triggered it. Shore power didn’t trip. Tried them all together. Didn’t trip. I assumed maybe just maybe it was the shore power station itself not being well maintained by the marina and it was a bit intermittent so I left everything on and all seemed fine.

Later in the day I went to turn on the hot water and it was ice cold. I’ve read some stuff about corroded ‘button sensors’ or terminals on these hot water heats causing wires to heat and the plastic shield to melt. I’ve read heating elements on their way out pull more amperage and trip the breakers.

Just happened last night and I didn’t get a chance to get down there and start going through the hot water system but I’m wondering if anyone can provide insight.

Thanks!
 
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