Official 280 Sundancer Thread

scoflaw said:
the 1 for the alarm is up top about 8 " from the distributor looking at the motor from the front it's on the right rear. the other 1 for the gauge is same side down around the #5 plug.
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Thanks
Took a little more finesse but I ended up spotting it using the camera on my phone.
Please confirm;
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Can I change this on the water? Will any oil leak out if I unscrew this?
I see a lot of replacements for this on Amazon for real cheap. My fear is anything electrical can either be good quality or just crap.
Any aftermarket/unbranded replacement that can compare with OEM on this particular part?
 
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That one is for the gauge, oil won't leak much. I stay away from real cheap. What's the problem your trying to fix?
 
L
scoflaw said:
That one is for the gauge, oil won't leak much. I stay away from real cheap. What's the problem your trying to fix?
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Everything else is fine and steady on the dash except starboard engine Oil pressure guage drops to zero after riding for a while and going fast especially towards WOT.
Guage just becomes erratic like it’s receiving bad signals. Goes down to zero and back up again depending on whether am decreasing or increasing the rpm.
Engine runs fine without issues all the while.
Finally spotting this part, I am surprised at the amount of corrosion on the contacts.
Even if nothing else, thats enough to cause bad signals.

I will Order a new part but in the meantime Am going to attempt to brush clean the corrosion with a mix of salt and vinegar (and baking sofa afterwards to neutralize the acid) to see if it helps.
 
stg099 said:
That is definitely not normal, best idea would be to run the engines in the slip with the hatch open to scan for leaks. Most likely culprit as stated above is a freeze plug or cooling water hose. If you can't recreate with the boat at idle, then I'd have someone come out with you so you can run with the hatch open to examine for leaks at a slow speed cruise on a calm day. You shouldn't have any water in the bilge, so something is definitely up.
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Did you ever find the source of water in the bilge? I have the same issue only at cruise speeds.
 
Dknebes said:
Did you ever find the source of water in the bilge? I have the same issue only at cruise speeds.
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For my current 370, it was a combination of factors. The most significant being that the caulk has broken down on my transom speaker pods and rainwater was leaking in at a significant rate. The next was a dripping rudder shaft seal, that with a quick tightening was able to stop. Finally, a small dribble from the rear corner rubrail/deck hull joint that needed resealed.

On my previous 280 the source of bilge water was the thru hull fro the transducer. The factory put very little sealant on the thru hull, and it allowed water into the bilge at a decent rate. I removed, cleaned and rebed it and the bilge was bone dry after that.
 
Lost anchor on windy day. Need to replace anchor.
Is a 35lbs anchor too much of an upgrade from the stock 25lbs anchor? I have 1/4" chain.
 
just1time said:
Lost anchor on windy day. Need to replace anchor.
Is a 35lbs anchor too much of an upgrade from the stock 25lbs anchor? I have 1/4" chain.
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Can't hurt - as long as it fits and doesn't hit the bow keel. Compare the specs to what your 25lb'r was - or just compare the specs to actually measuring at the boat.
 
Check by your ecm. You should have a fuse for the fuel pump. Mine is mounted in the lid of the ecm box. Right side mounted to the riser
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Will the much nicer 2008 280DA throttle assembly fit a 2003 280DA?
Direct swap? impossible?
 
Dknebes said:
Did you ever find the source of water in the bilge? I have the same issue only at cruise speeds.
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Yes, I did. The issue was the water discharge housing (where you drain the water from the cooling system). It is made of plastic and developed a crack. The way I noticed it, is when I tied the blue freeze plug very tight, I saw that the water was coming around it. Followed where it was coming from, and it was coming from the housing the plug screws into. Had mechanic replace the housing.
I will be in the marina later today, will take the picture of the part and will post here.
 
Looking to put a contract on a 2004 with 5.0/B3's. Surveyor can answer most questions, but here are a few for you guys:
--Has anyone placed a sound-insulating box around the generator?
--Boat was made in TN [SERTxxx]. Are there sources for ready-made replacement canvas or isinglass?
--Should I worry about a bit of delamination within foredeck? No sign of leaks in headliner.
--How low should I go on engine compression? 120-160 range about right?
--Can fuel tank be replaced without cutting fiberglass? Not worried about having to remove genny or such to get to it.
tia, enfield
 
Gunn said:
Are those 194 bulbs the correct bulbs for the instrument gauges? My multi-gauge for the starboard engine has had the light out on it for years, never did investigate if I could access a bulb or what type it was. That would be fantastic if it was just a simple bulb.
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Jeff Delbuono said:
Yes they are. Easy swap out too.
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Ok, so today I removed my starboard mult-gauge. I can't see where in the world a 194 bulb is?!! I'm guessing it must be inside? But...how do I get access to it?! I can't see anyway to crack it open. Do I have a different gauge that is non-serviceable? Any help would be appreciated!

Tom

Instrument2.jpg



Instrument1.jpg
 
enfield said:
Looking to put a contract on a 2004 with 5.0/B3's. Surveyor can answer most questions, but here are a few for you guys:
--Boat was made in TN [SERTxxx]. Are there sources for ready-made replacement canvas or isinglass?
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The OEM manufacturer for Sea Ray was Great Lakes Boat Top, I have ordered replacement canvas and cockpit covers from there a couple of times over the last decade.

https://greatlakesboattop.com/
 
grettberg said:
I was out Saturday towing the kids on the tube and noticed strange outdrive noises. The noise only occurred when I had the steering full right or full left. I was really doing some sharp turns. Steering straight, no noises. Could it be cavitation? I have the bravo3 with the single 496. Thanks!
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Wanted to follow up on this. It turned out to be the gimbal bearings and u-joints. Had both replaced and now no noise.
Thanks for all the reply's!
 
I have a new issue as of yesterday. The motor started kind of ruff and at low RPM ran ruff. Had a gas smell coming out of the exhaust as well. Never smelled that before. At high RPM boat ran well. I searched and didn't see threads that were similar. Anyone have a similar experience?
 
Fuel pressure regulator. Easy enough to check on the CF3 module, it sits right on top, take it off and look for the paint.
 
scoflaw said:
Fuel pressure regulator. Easy enough to check on the CF3 module, it sits right on top, take it off and look for the paint.
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Like you said, looks easy enough. Since it's dealing with fuel, anything to be alert of before inspecting?
 
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