Official 380 Thread

Where are the two 30 amp galvanic isolators located? They are referenced in the parts manual (P/N
802074) but not shown in any of the diagrams. I'm thinking close to the shore power plugs?
 
When I had the salon cushions off a month or so ago playing around with the stereo amps, I saw two things that could be them, I wasn't sure what they were though.

You can see it in this video, blue boxes
 
When I had the salon cushions off a month or so ago playing around with the stereo amps, I saw two things that could be them, I wasn't sure what they were though.

You can see it in this video, blue boxes

Thanks. Clearly labeled "Zinc Saver II Galvanic Isolator".
Would never have thought to look there so thanks again.
 
Hi is there a form for the 04 through 07 380 the new body styles? If so, can someone post the link I cannot find it.
Does anybody have a link to possibly the boat tests for this model of Boat would greatly appreciate if you could help us out
 
Swim platform refurbish underway. The stringers were mostly cracked where they attached to the stern reinforcing plates (where the bolts attach to the transom). Could have happened a number of ways, most likely previous owner bashing a dock or two.
IMG_0428.jpeg IMG_0438.jpeg
Handy moisture meter (Klein Tools ET140 Pinless Moisture Meter) indicated moisture all over the swim platform. Not surprising with the cracked stringers.
The most important thing is ensure the swim platform doesn't twist or lose curvature during the disassembly and rebuild. Obviously a rigid flat surface helps with the twist. For the curvature, made a 'jig' from 2x8 lumber, with the transom curvature traced onto the lumber, then carefully cut with a jigsaw. Had to do this twice, to get an accurate jig. Then screwed the jig onto the transom side of the swim platform, with fender washers and at the exact height at which the jig measurements were taken. As expected, the jig curvature was different than the swim platform given the cracked stringers. The careful process of slowly tightening each screw, brought the swim platform curvature into conformity with the boat transom.
IMG_0457.jpeg
Once that was done, removed one of the stringers and the underside fiberglass skin, exposing the wood core. The core was about 50-50 wet vs still serviceable.
IMG_0462.jpeg

Going to replace the stringers with 1" Coosa Bluewater 26# fiberglass board. A lot stronger and 30% lighter than marine plywood, and will not rot. The reinforcing plates through which the swim platform bolts to the boat transom will be 1/2" Coosa 26. The coring will be removed and replaced with 1/2" Coosa Bluewater 20#. 1708 fiberglass mat with epoxy resin will be used, with fiberglass cloth tape added for structural stiffness and tabing in components.

The net should be a much stiffer and slightly lighter swim platform. After that the underside will be barrier coated then painted with Alexseal epoxy paint.
 

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Swim platform refurbish underway. The stringers were mostly cracked where they attached to the stern reinforcing plates (where the bolts attach to the transom). Could have happened a number of ways, most likely previous owner bashing a dock or two.
View attachment 140651 View attachment 140652
Handy moisture meter (Klein Tools ET140 Pinless Moisture Meter) indicated moisture all over the swim platform. Not surprising with the cracked stringers.
The most important thing is ensure the swim platform doesn't twist or lose curvature during the disassembly and rebuild. Obviously a rigid flat surface helps with the twist. For the curvature, made a 'jig' from 2x8 lumber, with the transom curvature traced onto the lumber, then carefully cut with a jigsaw. Had to do this twice, to get an accurate jig. Then screwed the jig onto the transom side of the swim platform, with fender washers and at the exact height at which the jig measurements were taken. As expected, the jig curvature was different than the swim platform given the cracked stringers. The careful process of slowly tightening each screw, brought the swim platform curvature into conformity with the boat transom.
View attachment 140653
Once that was done, removed one of the stringers and the underside fiberglass skin, exposing the wood core. The core was about 50-50 wet vs still serviceable.
View attachment 140654

Going to replace the stringers with 1" Coosa Bluewater 26# fiberglass board. A lot stronger and 30% lighter than marine plywood, and will not rot. The reinforcing plates through which the swim platform bolts to the boat transom will be 1/2" Coosa 26. The coring will be removed and replaced with 1/2" Coosa Bluewater 20#. 1708 fiberglass mat with epoxy resin will be used, with fiberglass cloth tape added for structural stiffness and tabing in components.

The net should be a much stiffer and slightly lighter swim platform. After that the underside will be barrier coated then painted with Alexseal epoxy paint.
I applaud your due diligence to tackle this refurbishment of your swim platform. Too late now that you are underway, however it seems based on the pics posted you may have been better off with a new swim platform? :)
 
Swim platform refurbish underway. The stringers were mostly cracked where they attached to the stern reinforcing plates (where the bolts attach to the transom). Could have happened a number of ways, most likely previous owner bashing a dock or two.
View attachment 140651 View attachment 140652
Handy moisture meter (Klein Tools ET140 Pinless Moisture Meter) indicated moisture all over the swim platform. Not surprising with the cracked stringers.
The most important thing is ensure the swim platform doesn't twist or lose curvature during the disassembly and rebuild. Obviously a rigid flat surface helps with the twist. For the curvature, made a 'jig' from 2x8 lumber, with the transom curvature traced onto the lumber, then carefully cut with a jigsaw. Had to do this twice, to get an accurate jig. Then screwed the jig onto the transom side of the swim platform, with fender washers and at the exact height at which the jig measurements were taken. As expected, the jig curvature was different than the swim platform given the cracked stringers. The careful process of slowly tightening each screw, brought the swim platform curvature into conformity with the boat transom.
View attachment 140653
Once that was done, removed one of the stringers and the underside fiberglass skin, exposing the wood core. The core was about 50-50 wet vs still serviceable.
View attachment 140654

Going to replace the stringers with 1" Coosa Bluewater 26# fiberglass board. A lot stronger and 30% lighter than marine plywood, and will not rot. The reinforcing plates through which the swim platform bolts to the boat transom will be 1/2" Coosa 26. The coring will be removed and replaced with 1/2" Coosa Bluewater 20#. 1708 fiberglass mat with epoxy resin will be used, with fiberglass cloth tape added for structural stiffness and tabing in components.

The net should be a much stiffer and slightly lighter swim platform. After that the underside will be barrier coated then painted with Alexseal epoxy paint.
Nice work! I wonder if the way you build it, it will be stronger than the original? Might be a nice benefit if you ever put a PWC or dingy back there.

What a new swim platform go for these days for these boats? $3k, $5k, $10K? I'm pretty sure if ya gotta ask...
 
I think the issue, at least with me, the swimplatforms you buy make will not fit as good as the original factory made ones do. I bought one that was supposed to be made for my run about, wasn’t close….
@SCFoster
Thank you for the details and please keep us updated on your progress

I applaud your due diligence to tackle this refurbishment of your swim platform. Too late now that you are underway, however it seems based on the pics posted you may have been better off with a new swim platform? :)
 
I applaud your due diligence to tackle this refurbishment of your swim platform. Too late now that you are underway, however it seems based on the pics posted you may have been better off with a new swim platform? :)

Actually no. A new swim platform, as @Chris-380 stated, is not going to match the original. Setting the labor aside, the materials are going to be a lot less than buying a new one and it will be better than new when I'm done. Rather than sitting watching the boob tube, I can work on this in the evenings, tuning out the day's irritations.

The original platform is a perfect base point, to build a "new" one. I'll cut out the stringers, backing plates and lower skin, remove the coring, to have just an upper skin and vertical lip that attaches to the transom. The 2x8 jig keeps the vertical lip in the correct curvature.

  • Then everything gets cleaned/sanded and a layer of 1708 goes down to ensure a good bonding surface.
  • 1/2" Coosa 20# coring goes down as a single piece, or as close to a single piece as possible.
  • 5 or 6 layers of 1708 fiberglass goes down over the coring.
  • The six 1/2" backing plates made of Coosa 26# get epoxied to the vertical lip.
  • 5-6 layers of 1708 are epoxied to the vertical lip as a continuous layer, covering the Coosa.
  • 4" strips of fiberglass mat get epoxied onto the coring in each of the six stringer locations.
  • Each of the six stringers is measured and cut from 1" Coosa 26#. The lower part of the triangle for each (which will not be bonded to the platform) is rounded off.
  • 5-6 layers of 1708 goes over each stringer triangle, cured and cut flush to the two bonding surfaces (one the horizontal and the other the vertical backing plate).
  • Each of the 6 stringers are epoxied in place using thickened epoxy.
  • 1708 cut into 4" strips is used to tab in each of the stringers on both sides, both horizontally and vertically.
Let everything sit for about a 3 days to cure.

Then start cleaning off any blush with soap and water, and then barrier coat the underside.
Paint later.
 
Forgot to mention on this thread that I've retained Andy Miller from BoatworksToday.com for technical advice.
Even though I have a background in aviation composites, an aeronautical engineering degree, and built my first wooden boat when I was 14, all that does is ensure that I KNOW I need someone who's done this many times to confirm the approach is solid.
Had a FaceTime call with him this morning and he made some good points and we agreed on some tweaks to the process.

 
Actually no. A new swim platform, as @Chris-380 stated, is not going to match the original.

Not wanting to stand in the way of a good DIY project but you guys should check your intel on the "typical" new swim platform install. Unless they screw something up, the new platform should be a 100% match to OEM.

Mine was flawless, perfect match to the transom. <$5k delivered.

51158503852_777252842b_h.jpg


51367752428_e475acfb31_h.jpg
 
Not wanting to stand in the way of a good DIY project but you guys should check your intel on the "typical" new swim platform install. Unless they screw something up, the new platform should be a 100% match to OEM.

Mine was flawless, perfect match to the transom. <$5k delivered.

51158503852_777252842b_h.jpg


51367752428_e475acfb31_h.jpg
Where did you get it?
I've never suffered from the "not invented here" syndrome. Thanks for posting.

I like the flat surface of your platform, with the ladder underneath. Do you know what the weight rating of that platform is? I see you have a dinghy holder on the starboard side. Was that part of the purchase or separate?
 
Where did you get it?
I've never suffered from the "not invented here" syndrome. Thanks for posting.

I like the flat surface of your platform, with the ladder underneath. Do you know what the weight rating of that platform is? I see you have a dinghy holder on the starboard side. Was that part of the purchase or separate?

That's from swimplatforms.com. They are pretty well known around these parts. The weight rating of an aftermarket swim platform is generally going to be more than the transom it's attached to. In my case my 400DA is rated for 600lbs. Pinning someone down on whether or not that includes the platform is a bit of a challenge though :)

The dinghy setup is not a part of the platform. I did have swimplatforms.com move the ladder to port knowing I was going to have that installed though. They were great to work with...
 
That's from swimplatforms.com. They are pretty well known around these parts. The weight rating of an aftermarket swim platform is generally going to be more than the transom it's attached to. In my case my 400DA is rated for 600lbs. Pinning someone down on whether or not that includes the platform is a bit of a challenge though :)

The dinghy setup is not a part of the platform. I did have swimplatforms.com move the ladder to port knowing I was going to have that installed though. They were great to work with...

Thanks! I just called them (602-431-8225) and they answered on the 1st ring. She told me I'd have a quote in less than 30 minutes, that they have done a LOT of 380DAs and lead time is 5-7 weeks from payment.

I wonder if I can make a bar out of the old one for the patio? :D
 
Have some bad news... spoke to the wife and she vetoed the idea of using the old swim platform anywhere on our property, for any purpose :(

@Stee6043 , thanks for the tip. Didn't realize this was an extended platform (48" deep vs 38"). Also eliminates the swim ladder cover on the top surface (ladder stows underneath).
Added the complete BBQ package and the swim ladder removable deck mounted "U" style handles.
Delivery in 5-7 weeks.

Sea Ray 380 Sundancer 1a .jpg Sea Ray 380 Sundancer 1b .jpg Sea Ray 380 Sundancer 1c .jpg Sea Ray 380 Sundancer 1d .jpg
 
I had good customer service with them, just wasn’t exact fit. They gave me $500 and a new platform… it didn’t fit but we sanded it and made it work
Thanks! I just called them (602-431-8225) and they answered on the 1st ring. She told me I'd have a quote in less than 30 minutes, that they have done a LOT of 380DAs and lead time is 5-7 weeks from payment.

I wonder if I can make a bar out of the old one for the patio? :D
 
I had good customer service with them, just wasn’t exact fit. They gave me $500 and a new platform… it didn’t fit but we sanded it and made it work

hmmm... I'll bring that up to them ahead of time.

When did you purchase your platform?

Thanks for the heads up.
 
hmmm... I'll bring that up to them ahead of time.

When did you purchase your platform?

Thanks for the heads up.
Its been a while. It was for a boat that didnt have a stock platform. i ended up selling the firsat one they shipped, and when i got the $500 check, that basically paid for 60% of the platform.... it all woeld out, but pita.... with seeing the one on the 400, makes me feel good about trying it again.... i really dont like the support poles that are standard, i assume this mirroring stock, it wont need the extra supports

edit- as i look for pics of 360,380,400 there isnt any. On the 340 from our era, it does have the extra support posts
 
Its been a while. It was for a boat that didnt have a stock platform. i ended up selling the firsat one they shipped, and when i got the $500 check, that basically paid for 60% of the platform.... it all woeld out, but pita.... with seeing the one on the 400, makes me feel good about trying it again.... i really dont like the support poles that are standard, i assume this mirroring stock, it wont need the extra supports

edit- as i look for pics of 360,380,400 there isnt any. On the 340 from our era, it does have the extra support posts

So I'm right to assume the platform you got was not for a 380DA?

I actually prefer the stainless support poles, as it greatly improves the load capability of the swim platform. Not a fan of cantilevering all that weight with a 10" wide strip of fiberglass
 

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